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Routes in Trashcan Rock - West Face

B-1 T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
B-2 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
B-3 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Baby-Point-Five T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Bimbo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Black Eye T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Bloodymir T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cranny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eschar T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Eyesore T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Eyestrain T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
History TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Karpkwitz T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Profundity T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Simpatico T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Tiptoe T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trough, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Tulip T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Walkway T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
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Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,624 total · 14/month
Shared By: Brian Reynolds on Nov 27, 2003
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

On the left side of the west face of Trashcan Rock (facing the large parking area), there are three wide, ugly-looking cracks. From left to right, they are B-3, B-2, and B-1.

B-2 is an awkward, unaesthetic chimney. Definitely my least favorite of the three. You're probably better off avoiding this one.

Protection

Hand sizes and up. Some longer slings may come in handy to anchor up above. Walk off north.
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Weird for 5.3, feels harder. Sep 10, 2006
Mark L  
I've seen soloists walking up and down the other routes on this rock get on to this route and pause about half way up, look around a little, and seem a little uncomfortable as they finished off this "5.3". Agree with Blitzo on this one.

Still a great route for an aspiring leader - plenty of pro options and pretty good practice for hand jamming. You can do the whole climb as a contrived stemming (hands and feet) exercise as well which probably makes it more like 5.7 Apr 30, 2007
KraigP
 
KraigP  
 
There is a small crux at the middle but nothing to be worried of. Great for beginners, first time trad leaders and soloists. I soloed the set of B climbs as my first solos. Fun stuff! Nov 18, 2008
I give it a 5.4. You can make it a bit more difficult if you use more of the face to the left. The crack has lots of opportunities to jam hands and arms, but can be a bit slippery for the feet.

I had 2 other experienced climbers (5.9ish) struggle midway up the route ... but I thought it was pretty easy.

Also, I doubt this is 60 feet as indicated; I think it's around 40 feet. Feb 15, 2010
"Hal"
 
"Hal"  
 
My second trad lead, did this one in the dark with headlamps. It was pretty fun. The anchor spot is before the topout - I had to down climb a bit. The anchor takes a pretty bomber #4. Nov 8, 2010
Ken Noyce
Layton, UT
  5.3
Ken Noyce   Layton, UT
  5.3
I thought this one was super easy, but my wife (who regularly TR's up to 5.11) slipped off it twice (on TR at the crux), so just be aware that it may be more slippery than it appears. Dec 20, 2010
Rodger Raubach  
  5.4
I thought it was simply more awkward than "difficult," but gave it a 5.4 rating by some immediate comparisons on the rock. Mar 11, 2011
cyrus
Menifee, CA
  5.4
cyrus   Menifee, CA
  5.4
Felt a little awkward. Took the kids out and top roped B1, B2, & B3. Everyone agreed this was the most difficult of the three. Still fun. Jan 3, 2012
Trevor Roberson
Joshua Tree, California
Trevor Roberson   Joshua Tree, California
Soloed the other routes no problem but this one always gets the heart racing a little in that one awkward spot. Mar 5, 2018

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