Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Trashcan Rock - West Face

B-1 T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
B-2 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
B-3 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Baby-Point-Five T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Bimbo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Black Eye T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Bloodymir T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cranny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eschar T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Eyesore T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Eyestrain T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
History TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Karpkwitz T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Profundity T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Simpatico T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Tiptoe T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trough, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Tulip T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Walkway T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,885 total, 17/month
Shared By: Brian Reynolds on Nov 27, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


133 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

On the left side of the west face of Trashcan Rock (facing the large parking area), there are three wide, ugly-looking cracks. From left to right, they are B-3, B-2, and B-1. B-1 is the easiest, but it's also the only one worth climbing. Chimney moves down low give way to fun climbing on patina plates up top.

This would be a good first climb on TR, and a great first trad lead. If you could beat the crowds, that is ...

Protection

Hand size and up. Would protect well with just a set of stoppers and a set of hexes if you don't have cams. Anchor to the left of a large overhang up top -- some longer slings helpful.

Photos

Samir Abdosh
  5.3
Samir Abdosh  
  5.3
good beginner trad route. i guess 5.1 is fair if you stem/use the features on the broad side, but it seems a little light if you stay in the crack the whole time. echoing the 5.3 rating. Jul 19, 2016
BrettAtBond
  5.1
BrettAtBond  
  5.1
Low angle chimney, sinker hands and jug flakes. Varied, secure, fun climbing. Best of the B-cracks IMO. Oct 12, 2015
Ben Crowell
  5.3
Ben Crowell  
  5.3
For people looking for an easy first trad lead at JT, Shardik at Bear Island might be a better choice. Beginners might not want to attempt this without a rack containing doubles of larger cams. Feb 18, 2013
cyrus
Menifee, CA
  5.1
cyrus   Menifee, CA
  5.1
Very good route for beginners and kids. Would be a good route to learn placing gear on lead for the unexperienced. Jan 3, 2012
Canon
 
Canon  
 
I've never climbed a "5.1" route, but I would call it harder than the easiest incidental soloing I've done, so I'd call it a 5.3. Oct 23, 2011
Justin Tomlinson
Monrovia, CA
 
Justin Tomlinson   Monrovia, CA
 
Good for the grade. Mar 7, 2011
Rodger Raubach  
  5.2
A decent climb for a rank beginner. Used it teaching my 10 year old son how to jam. Sep 9, 2010
Thomas Thelen
Prescott, AZ
Thomas Thelen   Prescott, AZ
haha this was so nice to climb after Profundity. It's a really good place to practice building TP anchors. Apr 7, 2009
KraigP
 
KraigP  
 
Definately suggested for first time climbers! This is a fun super easy route with huge hands! Perfect for beginning trad leaders too! Gotta beat the crowds though. Nov 18, 2008
How hard can 5.1b? Jan 11, 2008
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.2
Russ, not everone has your esteemed 5.6 onsight ability, so leave the comments for the >5.4 community to us regular folk! Jan 11, 2008
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
5.2
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
5.2
I thought this was at least 5.1c.... Mid to top end of the 5.1 scale for sure. Be safe out there. Jan 10, 2008
Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
Finish directly up through/between the cap rocks (instead of traversing left) for a couple of fun moves of bombay squeeze. (That finish is not recommended if you are TRing, you'll want your rope below the caprock in that case). Probably the best of the "B" cracks. Jan 10, 2008
Mark L  
good pro placement practice climb and hand jamming practice climb if you ignore the face. Only problematic thing for a beginner is the slab traverse 15' left from the top when breaking down the belay to get to the walkoff. Apr 30, 2007
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Fun beginner solo.
Jack Osbourne climbed it on TV! What a joke! Sep 8, 2006