Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,356 total · 18/month
Shared By: Brian Reynolds on Nov 27, 2003
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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On the left side of the west face of Trashcan Rock (facing the large parking area), there are three wide, ugly-looking cracks. From left to right, they are B-3, B-2, and B-1. B-1 is the easiest, but it's also the only one worth climbing. Chimney moves down low give way to fun climbing on patina plates up top.

This would be a good first climb on TR, and a great first trad lead. If you could beat the crowds, that is ...


Hand size and up. Would protect well with just a set of stoppers and a set of hexes if you don't have cams. Anchor to the left of a large overhang up top -- some longer slings helpful.


Fun beginner solo.
Jack Osbourne climbed it on TV! What a joke! Sep 8, 2006
Mark L  
good pro placement practice climb and hand jamming practice climb if you ignore the face. Only problematic thing for a beginner is the slab traverse 15' left from the top when breaking down the belay to get to the walkoff. Apr 30, 2007
Will S
Joshua Tree
Will S   Joshua Tree
Finish directly up through/between the cap rocks (instead of traversing left) for a couple of fun moves of bombay squeeze. (That finish is not recommended if you are TRing, you'll want your rope below the caprock in that case). Probably the best of the "B" cracks. Jan 10, 2008
Russ Walling
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
I thought this was at least 5.1c.... Mid to top end of the 5.1 scale for sure. Be safe out there. Jan 10, 2008
Adam Stackhouse    
Russ, not everone has your esteemed 5.6 onsight ability, so leave the comments for the >5.4 community to us regular folk! Jan 11, 2008
How hard can 5.1b? Jan 11, 2008
Definately suggested for first time climbers! This is a fun super easy route with huge hands! Perfect for beginning trad leaders too! Gotta beat the crowds though. Nov 18, 2008
Thomas Thelen
Prescott, AZ
Thomas Thelen   Prescott, AZ
haha this was so nice to climb after Profundity. It's a really good place to practice building TP anchors. Apr 7, 2009
Rodger Raubach  
A decent climb for a rank beginner. Used it teaching my 10 year old son how to jam. Sep 9, 2010
Justin Tomlinson
Monrovia, CA
Justin Tomlinson   Monrovia, CA
Good for the grade. Mar 7, 2011
I've never climbed a "5.1" route, but I would call it harder than the easiest incidental soloing I've done, so I'd call it a 5.3. Oct 23, 2011
Menifee, CA
cyrus   Menifee, CA
Very good route for beginners and kids. Would be a good route to learn placing gear on lead for the unexperienced. Jan 3, 2012
Low angle chimney, sinker hands and jug flakes. Varied, secure, fun climbing. Best of the B-cracks IMO. Oct 12, 2015
Samir Abdosh
Samir Abdosh  
good beginner trad route. i guess 5.1 is fair if you stem/use the features on the broad side, but it seems a little light if you stay in the crack the whole time. echoing the 5.3 rating. Jul 19, 2016
Brendon A. Chapman
Martinez, CA
Brendon A. Chapman   Martinez, CA
Great route for the kids, TR anchor takes two bomber #3 C4's (blue) and a long sling around a fin. Nov 28, 2018