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California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Quail Springs Area
> Trashcan Rock
> Trashcan Rock - W Face
Finger War
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in Trashcan Rock - West Face
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B-1 T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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B-2 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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B-3 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Baby-Point-Five T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Bimbo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X |
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Black Eye T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Bloodymir T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cranny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Eschar T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Eyesore T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Eyestrain T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Finger War T,TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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FLETC T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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History TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Karpkwitz T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Profundity T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Simpatico T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a |
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Tiptoe T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Trough, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Tulip T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Walkway T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 34.04025, -116.19743 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 367 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Jordan Burkhardt on Aug 28, 2023 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Protection
#0.5-#2 cams for a top rope anchor, set up using one of the easier and safer routes to the left. For lead small protection could be placed in the finger crack and a medium cam could be placed at the top of Tulip's crack where the routes merge. One bolt protects the crux of the slab section.
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