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Routes in Trashcan Rock - West Face

B-1 T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
B-2 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
B-3 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Baby-Point-Five T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Bimbo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Black Eye T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Bloodymir T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cranny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eschar T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Eyesore T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Eyestrain T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
History TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Karpkwitz T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Profundity T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Simpatico T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Tiptoe T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trough, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Tulip T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Walkway T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 917 total, 5/month
Shared By: Mark J. Nelson on Jan 1, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

From Barlett: "Start in black-stained seams and cracks 10 feet right of Tulip and go up and left to meet that route at its bolt."

Moving left to the bolt seemed somewhat contrived, though clearly appropriate on lead. On toprope, it seemed more natural to either move straight up into the top of Eschar, or to stay between the bolt on the left and the crack on the right.

Protection

One bolt (well above the 5.10a friction crux)

Lots of webbing to sling a boulder above the route, or some smallish gear to use a crack in the rock above the route for a toprope anchor.

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Justin Peacock
Denver/Los Angeles
  5.10a/b X
Justin Peacock   Denver/Los Angeles
  5.10a/b X
I thought this was a super fun TR! Some fun and challenging friction climbing. Haven't done much Josh friction but 10a/b seems right to me. If you have a about 10-15 meters of webbing or an extra rope you can run it around a giant boulder above the route for an easy TR. Jan 8, 2012
Rodger Raubach
  5.10a X
Rodger Raubach  
  5.10a X
A difficult and almost totally unprotected friction climb. Not worth risking one's neck leading, when a toprope will serve nicely. Seemed about 5.9+/5.10a or 5.10-. One star, but not really a bomb. Apr 6, 2011
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Not much harder than "Baby Point Five". Sep 10, 2006