PRINT: Rock Climb Cranny, Joshua Tree National Park

Cranny

5.8, Trad, 30 ft (9 m),

Avg: 2.1 from 169 votes
FA: Scott Little, November 1972
California > Joshua Tree NP > Quail Springs Area > Trashcan Rock > Trashcan Rock - W Face

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Just right of center on the west face, there's a ledge about ten feet wide and five feet high. You can gain the ledge through unprotected but relatively easy climbing at either end.

Cranny starts from the right end of the ledge, and follows the obvious double crack system. It requires an interesting combination of techniques, and protection is adequate but not copious.

Protection

Standard rack, including small cams (Aliens).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

John Signorelli with the belay for me on Cranny.

Nate "Night Train" Knight pulling the double <br>
cracks on Cranny (5.8)

Nate "Night Train" Knight pulling the double cracks on Cranny (5.8)

Cameron is only 8!! What a stud!

Good short double Hand crack.

Climber on Cranny

Savannah pointing the way to Cranny (5.8)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brian Reynolds

5.8

I didn't realize how steep this climb is until I was into the alcove and standing at the base. Fun, interesting climb. Nov 29, 2003

Infernal Doom Fanatic

5.8+

Better as a toprope.The crack gets sandy and the pro can be dubious and tricky. Quite steep for a 5.8 and the final moves are a mutha! Oct 1, 2004

namascar

5.8

Belaying from the first ledge above the ground makes this climb much safer. Otherwise, a leader fall higer up can end up on the leader hitting the second ledge, due to rope stretch. Apr 4, 2005

Blitzo

Fun route. Sep 10, 2006

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR

5.8

This climb is surprisingly fun! I found solid gear, and never felt that the protection was dubious (and I'm pretty picky about good gear!) Definitely steep for a 5.8! Apr 7, 2007

72HW Holly
Minneapolis, MN

5.8

Maybe this one has cleaned up over the years, I found the pro to be bomber and saw little of the above mentioned sand. Went on a nut down low and two BD #1's. Top out moves are powerful to say the least, and the high step layback is tons of fun. Overall, an exciting - if all too short - lead that I will do again! Mar 3, 2008

Joe M
Beckley, wv

5.8

I thought this climb was a lot easier than it looked (althogh I only toproped it). The pro looked a little sketchy, would love to lead it otherwise. I stemmed most of the way up which probably made it feel easier. Jan 11, 2009

Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA

5.8

Way more fun than I expected for such a short route! First 5.8 lead. May 27, 2009

attila

Take just a light rack of cams and nuts. Lots of stemming. Last moves at the top are definitely stout. Feb 16, 2010

Rodger Raubach
Billings, MT

5.8

Short, a better toprope than as a lead. All of an "8." Sep 9, 2010

Ken Noyce
Layton, UT

5.8

This climb is tons of fun (if only it could have been 4 times as long). The moves are varied and cool and the protection was great. No need for aliens, I placed a .75, 1, and 2 C4 all of which were bomber. As for the rating, I didn't know what it was rated before jumping on it and when I got to the top I said it felt like 5.8, so I'd say the rating is right on. Dec 20, 2010

Canon

Good climb. Was scratching my head at the crux until I figured out to stem wide and lieback. Nov 8, 2011

CrazyCranium
Eden Prairie, MN

Just left of the double cracks on Cranny, there is a shallow left leaning crack that we were able to climb on the same toprope. Does anyone know the name and rating of this climb? I was unable to find it on MP or in any of the guidebooks we had. I would expect it to be in the low 5.10 range. Apr 10, 2014

dnaiscool

Great climb, but I did note "Bad Fall Potential" in my anecdotal notes for the route. Apr 18, 2015