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Routes in Trashcan Rock - East Face

Butterfly Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Filch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Filth T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Hermanutic T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Left Sawdust Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Right Sawdust Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wallaby Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: John Bald and John Long, 1973
Page Views: 2,488 total, 13/month
Shared By: AJ on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is between Hermanutic and the Sawdust cracks. Greasy tips locks lead to a juggy hand crack. Good rock.

The protection is maybe PG- bomber, but it's too strenuous to place it until you're a ways up.

Protection

1-3"
Will S
Joshua Tree
  5.11c
Will S   Joshua Tree
  5.11c
Bouldery move off the ground to a couple nasty/greasy tips locks moves or a few lieback moves. Feels about the same difficulty whether you lieback or lock, just decide whether you want insecure hands or insecure feet. Jan 10, 2008
Blitzo  
The new sign says 5.11a! Sep 8, 2006
Maybe the rating should be V2 for the boulder problem, and 5.9 for the route. May 13, 2003
Randy  
According to the O'Kelly's Crack maxum (first 10 feet don't count toward the rating), this route should be 5.9! The bottom is hard (and has gotten a bit harder as the ground at the base has eroded away over the years). Apr 16, 2003