Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: John Long, Randy Vogel, Mike Lechlinski, Craig Fry & Mari Gingery, December 1977
Page Views: 3,557 total · 20/month
Shared By: C Miller on Mar 20, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Hidden but a short distance from the crowds at Trashcan Rock is this gem of a route which if it were roadside would see almost constant traffic.

Climb a short slab, or as an alternative traverse in from the left, to reach the base of the crack which starts with a short vertical section of fingers and hands. Above this is a ledge and another short section with fingers and some stemming/liebacking to reach a second ledge. The last bit climbs up and right on face holds until able to traverse back left to reach good hand jams which lead to the top and the anchors.

The variety of moves on this coupled with the setting make for a tradtastic experience. Three stars out of five.


Just left of White Powder, a wide crack/chimney.


Gear to 1.5", one 2.5" piece, include wires
2 bolt anchor/rap
FA: John Long, Randy Vogel, Mike Lechlinski, Craig Fry, Mari Gingery, 12/77.

3 of 5 stars (2.5+ stars here). A really fun climb. Mar 23, 2004
Steve Powell
Steve Powell  
very fun route. rock is very good. Apr 5, 2004
Bo Johnston  
Great pump with continuous moves. I counted 3 10a moves along the route. As for gear I found that small to #1 Camalots were all I needed and there is a 2 bolt rap anchor at the top! The most physical move was finding that my harness was back at Trashcan rock so I ran there and back (1 mile round trip up and down the sand dunes in approximately 11 minutes). It made the 43 deg. day no so cold for a while!! Dec 12, 2004
Great crack climb of all the "good" sizes. Mar 21, 2005
Yucca Valley, CA
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
All I can say is this one was well worth doing........ Apr 20, 2005
Woody Stark  
Very good and demanding route; it keeps one's attention all the way. I'm going to be contrary and rate it 10B. Apr 20, 2005
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Definitely a great route. Good gear, fun cruxes, and a final challenge at the end. Largest piece needed is a #2 Camalot - and that is only used at the very end. Nov 6, 2006
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
This is one of the better .10a Josh climbs I've been on. Definitely better than right baskerville.

If you climb straight up the crack on the upper third of the crack it might be .10b, but that's a little contrived as a step right then back in on good holds is the obvious (and .10a) sequence... Nov 24, 2007
Really sustained, tougher than other .10a's I've done in Josh. Lots of hands. I did it on TR, but it looked very easy to protect. Mar 27, 2012
Los Angeles, CA
Fluoride   Los Angeles, CA
One of my favorite 10a's in Josh. Well worth it. The climb breaks into 3 sections with decent rests after the first two.

I think it must be geared perfectly towards my fingers and hands cause I don't find it nearly as stiff as many other JT 10a's. I have long thin fingers and I think that's probably a huge plus for me. Anyone with big mitts would have a harder time.

Eats gear. Great crack. Nothing but love. Nov 6, 2012
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
Fun Route in a Fun Area!!! Totally recommend it to anyone and everyone!! Small crack, takes small gear well! Dec 6, 2012
Russ Walling
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
Interesting moves in a few places with a punchy topout. Bolts at the top are in good shape for an easy lower or rap. Eats up pro in the small to medium sizes. Dec 12, 2012
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
Did this yesterday, such a good route, anchors still in good place. Route takes smaller gear, can place a #3 at top before the anchors but not really needed. The slab start made the route so much better Nov 11, 2013
Rich Welker
Riverside, CA
Rich Welker   Riverside, CA
A very fun route and perhaps underated on stars! 5.10a. Nov 4, 2014
One of the best finger cracks for the grade in the park. DO the hike and get on this little dude, it's full on and way fun!

IMO...not quite as hard as Exorcist. Apr 18, 2015
Jason Kim
Encinitas, CA
Jason Kim   Encinitas, CA
Great climb and quick approach (10 minutes on level ground). Looks much harder than it climbs! Wonderful stances and pro, get on it! Nov 19, 2017