| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 34.03343, -116.20185 |
| FA: | John Long, Randy Vogel, Mike Lechlinski, Craig Fry & Mari Gingery, December 1977 |
| Page Views: | 6,657 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Mar 20, 2004 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Hidden but a short distance from the crowds at Trashcan Rock is this gem of a route which if it were roadside would see almost constant traffic.
Climb a short slab, or as an alternative traverse in from the left, to reach the base of the crack which starts with a short vertical section of fingers and hands. Above this is a ledge and another short section with fingers and some stemming/liebacking to reach a second ledge. The last bit climbs up and right on face holds until able to traverse back left to reach good hand jams which lead to the top and the anchors.
The variety of moves on this coupled with the setting make for a tradtastic experience. Three stars out of five.



10 Comments