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Routes in Hound Rock

An Eye to the West T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crescent Wrench T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Direct Wrench TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Over The Hill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tossed Green T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Powder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 805 total · 5/month
Shared By: Woody Stark on Apr 19, 2005
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This is the thin aching crack visible as you first reach the rock. Thin crack, thin gear, thin feet - thin! Easy walk-off to the climber's left.


The left side of Hound Rock's east face.


Small cams, stoppers


Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
Way fun, way hard, way short. Don't miss trying a TR of Direct Wrench while you're there. The rope is already up and it delivers the full josh fukness experience. Dec 13, 2012
Will S
Joshua Tree
Will S   Joshua Tree
Too much beta alert: Recommend multiple 1" pieces (i.e. 2x orange metolius tcus are nice to have). I've led this a couple of times (after having followed it previously), and while the tech crux is about midway, the redpoint crux is probably the last move going left before the finishing jug. What makes this kind of hard for the grade is that the pro takes a little work to place from less than restful positions and isn't always the most inspiring (adequate, though). For such a short route, by the time you fiddle the gear in, it feels enduro. Dec 13, 2012
Russ Walling
Russ Walling
Always a tough tic for me and no way I'm leading it. Hard moves right to the finishing jugs. Dec 12, 2012
Pat C
Pat C   Honolulu
Super pumpy for me, I made big (the move) runout (up 5 over 10 ft) moves of desperation at the end. I'm confident at 10a, still have a hard time with 10b, and can pull 10c with some strain. I thought this was 10c...It wasn't. Apr 4, 2009
C Miller
C Miller   CA  
Short but engaging, especially if on lead. Two stars out of five. Apr 21, 2005
Vernon Stiefel
Vernon Stiefel  
Crescent Wrench is definitely 10d on lead. This is a perfect example of why route ratings based on a TR ascent are irrelevant when compared to the difficulty of an onsight attempt on lead. Apr 21, 2005
A different experience on lead/follow as placing (or even removing) gear is strenuous. Apr 21, 2005
On the sharp end this things works out to a .10+. Apr 21, 2005