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Routes in Hound Rock

An Eye to the West T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crescent Wrench T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Direct Wrench TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Over The Hill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tossed Green T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Powder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Janet Wilts & John Long, May 1977
Page Views: 758 total, 5/month
Shared By: Steve Powell on Apr 3, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Located on Hound Rock, this route is about five feet to the right of the route Tossed Green. Start on an easy slab which leads into the crack proper. Climb up to a rotten downward pointing flake. Surmount this (crux) and continue up the crack to the top. There are rap slings around a large boulder at the top of the crack. The poor rock on this route is in contrast to the good rock on the other Hound Rock routes.

Protection

Medium to large cams

Photos

Canon
 
Canon  
 
This climb sucks. The downward pointing flake 8ft off the ground is not long for the vertical world and is plain dangerous, and everything else is crumbling. The new "Classics" guide says this route shares the anchor with Tossed Greens, but thats a stretch. The rope does not like getting over there. The only redeeming quality it had was that it let me TR Tossed Greens. Mar 27, 2012
Artem Lebedev
Santa Monica, CA
 
Artem Lebedev   Santa Monica, CA
 
There are no slings at the top. There are, however, slings visible from the top of this climb, but a prudent climber would have to set up a special belay to reach them. Apr 12, 2010
72HW Holly
  5.7
72HW Holly  
  5.7
Not as bad as all that, but not great either.

The new Vogel Guide (Josh West) claims there are two bolts atop this gem. There are not, so beware. Nov 24, 2009
Pat C
Honolulu
 
Pat C   Honolulu
 
not fun Mar 23, 2009
Jorge
5.7
Jorge  
5.7
The rap slings are no longer there. Walk off climbers left. Apr 30, 2006
This route wasn't so bad if you like wide rotten cracks. I for one hate wide rotten cracks so I was glad to pass the lead to my partner. I would say this route is a good warm up to Tossed Green or on your way to the White Cliffs of Dover. Mar 26, 2005
vincent L.
Redwood City
  5.7
vincent L.   Redwood City
  5.7
a fairly undignified route that should only be climbed to access "tossed Green" to the left. Feb 6, 2005