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Quail Springs Area | 9303
| Elevation: | 4,272 ft | 1,302 m |
| GPS: |
34.06351, -116.22493 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 24,222 total · 98/month | |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Jan 22, 2006 | |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is the large rocky hillside midway between Lizards Landing and Vagmarken Buttress on the northeast side of Quail Springs Road. There are a handful of separate climbing areas to be found on and around this rockpile. The Negropolis is the obvious collection of brown crags high on the west face (visible from the road), while The Pet Cemetery is a small overhanging wall on the northeast corner of the hillside (facing away from the road).
Recommended climbs at The Negropolis include B for Beers (5.10b), Girls in the Mist (5.10d), Tap Dancing (5.11a R) and Dance On Fire (5.11a R).
Skeleton Crew (5.10c), Bone Merchant (5.11a) and Pet Cemetery (5.11a) are good choices at the Pet Cemetery.
Getting There
Parking for the Pet Cemetery is found on the northeast side of the road in a small dirt turnout. Parking for the main Negropolis is on the southwest side of the road directly across from the formation. Hell Rock and other crags are best approach from the paved pullout to the southeast of the Negropolis. See the formation overviews for more detailed approach directions.
Classic Climbing Routes at Quail Springs Area | 9303
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