Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Baskerville Rock

Charing Cross Hospital T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Don't Bolt Me TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dr. Mortimer, I Presume? T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Hounds, The TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Left Baskerville Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Man on the Tor, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Right Baskerville Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sound Asleep T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stemulation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Three Broken Threads T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Weathering Frights T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: John Long, Janet Wilts and Dan Dingle, 1977
Page Views: 2,991 total, 17/month
Shared By: Gary Kleiger on May 3, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


91 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

As you approach the area, you will see several blocks near each other. Baserkerville Rock is the leftmost of these formations. This route follows the crack furthest to the right on Baskerville Rock. Face climb for 15 feet until you reach a stance where one can place bomber pro. This is where the crux begins. The beauty of this route is that you'll get great stances to place gear, but the climbing never really eases off either. Enjoy!

Protection

finger-size pro to 0.75 inches. Large gear (2-3 inches) helpful for the belay or TR anchor.
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.10a
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.10a
Chuck Wilts was also responsible for designing the Knifeblade Piton. Feb 18, 2016
dnaiscool  
 
Janet Wilts, of the FA team, is the daughter of Chuck & Ellen Wilts. This dynamic team were very active climbers, and Chuck authored 3-4 editions of the guide to Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks from 1956 to about '73. Chuck was a PhD at Cal Tech, and his principle contribution to society was being on the team who discovered information storage on magnetic tape, like 8-Track and cassettes.

Fun Route...not as hard as the Exorcist. Apr 18, 2015
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
Good route, good pro, with 3.6 interesting moves. Probably a bit harder than the area classic Tossed Green from a technical standpoint. Dec 12, 2012
C Miller
CA
  5.10a
C Miller   CA  
  5.10a
Right Baskerville Crack on Youtube - youtube.com/watch?v=IX4aod0… Jun 8, 2009
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Fun route on good rock. Not quite as good as the nearby tossed green. Nov 24, 2007
Will S
Joshua Tree
  5.10a
Will S   Joshua Tree
  5.10a
Quality route with good pro. Exciting. Might want to take some bigger gear for the anchor up to a 3.5 camalot. Mar 1, 2007
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10a
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10a
outstanding jams and pro. Fun route Jan 28, 2006
namascar
  5.10a
namascar  
  5.10a
Excellent route. Nice approach to refresh you if you have a light hangover. Mar 21, 2005
The FA was actually John Long, Janet Wilts, and Dan Dingle in April or May of 1977. John lead, I belayed, Janet went second, and I went third. Nov 3, 2004
C Miller
CA
  5.10a
C Miller   CA  
  5.10a
Fun moves and good gear make this a route to do when in the area. Don't miss the nearby Tossed Green and some of the great routes at the nearby White Cliffs of Dover. Mar 12, 2004
i was surprised that nobody had many any comments about this route - i really enjoyed it. short and sweet, fun climbing, good gear. if i remember correctly, a couple of hand-sized cams will make it easier to set a belay at the top - looking up at the crack from the bottom you may be tempted not to bring any. down climb off of the backside and hang a left around the formation to get back to the base. Mar 10, 2004