Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: John Long and Dan Dingle, May 1977
Page Views: 1,237 total · 7/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

24 Opinions

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Left of the excellent Right Baskerville Crack is this obvious line that splits the formation. Don't be put off by the width of the crack as it's easier than appearances suggest.

Make unprotected bouldery moves to gain a ledge (crux) then launch up the striking wide splitter. A single #4 Camalot or equivalent should suffice, although another large piece may be deisired if not sliding the pro with you. Smaller sized gear (2-3") is utilized to set an anchor. Perhaps somewhat intimidating in appearance, this protects well and is surprisingly fun. All in all a worthwhile route that merits one star out of five.


Gear to 4.5"


IMO this is the best route on the formation. Have your partner spot you while you get up to the roof to place pro.The first placement is about 15 feet up(green alien). Then launch up into the big crack. There are places for a #3.5 and #4's. Jan 18, 2005
Once you are done with the initial part, the off width is super fun. I used 2 #4 Cam's and feel like in top rope all the time (in the off width). But that initial 15''(of the route) are scary. I put a red alien in the horizontal crack in the left (after the initial 15''), and felt really good after that. Mar 21, 2005
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10b R
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10b R
Worth the tick. Crux down low is high enough to be scary. Have a #0.5 camalot or red alien handy, as right after the crux you can get one in that protects the next move. The wide crack protects well with two larger pieces, and even pinches down to #3 camalot size higher up. Nov 6, 2006
Will S
Joshua Tree
  5.10b PG13
Will S   Joshua Tree
  5.10b PG13
Excellent route. It's all there for the face crux at the bottom, nothing hard or weird, so don't sweat it. You can push a #4 camalot, but it gets very tipped out in places...probably better just to take two #4s. Highly recommended. Mar 1, 2007
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
Excellent face climbing down low, nothing scary but you cannot place pro till you get onto the solid ledge below the crack so have your pals give you a solid spot. The OW up higher is fantastic and slightly less then vertical so it is very very user friendly to new OW climbers! Fun Route in every sense of the word....fun! Dec 11, 2012
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Mike Holley is ticking & commenting on all the area classics plus a few bonus routes like Left Baskerville! Good on you Mike. We did the route today and pretty glad I wasn't the leader of it! Committing moves before gear is placed on the ledge. Happy to see the upper section didn't really climb like an off-width but just as easy to get jumbled up in. Dec 11, 2012
Russ Walling
  5.9 PG13
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.9 PG13
The face climbing down low is not very hard, and right before an actual move shows up, you can pop in a cam in the 3/4" range to protect the move onto the shelf. Don't pop though.
From here the climbing should be fairly uneventful and with two cams in the 4" to 5" range the wide stuff is very well protected. Of note is no actual offwidth moves are needed to climb the wide crack.
Descend via a short easy scramble over the back of the formation. Dec 12, 2012
J Kazu
Los Angeles, CA
J Kazu   Los Angeles, CA
GEAR BETA: Can protect the low crux with an offset brassie. Also placed a microcam behind a suspect flake. Not the best gear but good enough. Enjoyed this route more than it's neighbor Right Baskerville. Apr 25, 2016