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Routes in Trashcan Rock - East Face

Butterfly Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Filch T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Filth T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Hermanutic T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Left Sawdust Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Right Sawdust Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wallaby Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,178 total, 7/month
Shared By: Josh Beck on Jan 24, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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47 Opinions

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Description

Just to the left of Right Sawdust crack, climb the thinner and much more difficult crack, avoiding using Right Sawdust crack at the top where it gets a little cruxy. Not too bad though, just move fast enough to avoid the pump. Would be worth another star if it wasn't so close to Right Sawdust Crack, at the top it could be pretty tempting to use the other crack just 2-3' away.

Protection

Thin to hand sized. Best to have a couple of fist sized pieces for an anchor.

Photos

Super solid moves avoided the right crack cause the west face made a good warm up contrived... Idk big word for an obviously more enjoyable and realistic 10c at the top if you don't use the right crack. Mar 13, 2013
Rodger Raubach
  5.10c
Rodger Raubach  
  5.10c
Gotta move fast on this one, as the submitter said. I was entirely focussed on the crack in front of my nose and ignored the R. Sawdust crack. But...I'm a purist at heart. Nov 18, 2010
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
Use the other crack otherwise it's too contrived. I was leading and was only too glad to grab the right crack near the top. Apr 7, 2008
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
A fun climb. Sep 10, 2006
I thought this crack was pretty hard at the top (for me), but avoided using the right hand crack except for one move.I thought this was a mucho fun route. Oct 12, 2003
Umm yeah, I just climbed this the other day and it seemed damned contrived not to use the other crack. But I enjoy plenty of much more contrived antics at the gym so, what the heck, why not? Feb 4, 2003
Josh Beck  
 
I agree... I'm generally of the "if I can hit it on the way down or if I can reach it while my other hand is still definitely in the crack / on route, then it's on as well" mindset. They're two different cracks and it's not that hard to avoid the right one at the top and it makes it a bit more difficult, but it is contrived. In the end though it's up to the leader and as long as they have a good time there's no right or wrong. Feb 4, 2003
Murf  
I always thought the ol' "don't use the other crack next to my hand" to make it 5.10 was a little too...gymish. Feb 4, 2003