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Routes in The Ranch

Donkey, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Goat, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horse, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Llama, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Rabbit, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Ranch Hand, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Frank Bentwood, Al Sanderson, Kelly Vaught, Bob Gaines, and Farai Muchenje, October, 2016.
Page Views: 881 total · 53/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Oct 8, 2016
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Climb the left side of the pillar, starting just left of The Llama. Surprisingly moderate for its steepness, due to some incredibly featured rock.

This route may be the best on the crag in terms of rock quality.


6 bolts plus a camming device for a crack above the 6th bolt. There's a spot for a #3.5 or #4 camalot at the start of the crack/flake and a slot for a 2.5 inch CD a bit higher.

2-bolt anchor (65 ft.)


Jim Dover
Idyllwild, CA
Jim Dover   Idyllwild, CA
Lots of fun and easily leadable with only quick draws and no gear. I pulled off a microwave size block last week. Terrifying. There are lots of detached and soon to be detached sections on this whole wall. Be extremely careful where you pull. Jan 28, 2018
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Best on the wall, fun climbing and probably the most solid of rock too. Nicely bolted with option for a 2.5" cam at the top before gaining the anchors. Consider long runners for top anchors if TR'ing, they're set back a bit. Nov 20, 2016
D. Evans
Tustin, California
D. Evans   Tustin, California
What a great route!!!...looks like 5.10 from the base. Nov 1, 2016

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