Whitehorse Ledge is a huge chunk of granite that is host to a wide variety of climbing styles from face climbs to cracks to of course slabs. The cliff is known for its stellar slab climbing. Often bold and always what you think of when you think slab. Routes like Standard Route (5.5), Interloper (5.10c), and Sliding Board (5.7) set the standard in New England for slab climbing.
As you follow the cliff south, it gets progressively steeper and steeper until you get to the south buttress a collection of cracks and face climbs that deserves much more attention. Here the gems are climbs like the classic link up Hotter Than Hell (5.9) to Inferno (5.8), Atlantis (5.10b), and a host of killer exposed mostly bolted (but not sport bolted)face climbs.
The variety at Whitehorse makes it hard to include everything. For example, the routes are of all varieties from short crack climbs to 1000+ft smooth slabs. Some routes eat up gear while others run out entire pitches all the way to the anchor.
Best thing to do is find a climb that suits you and get after it. Climbing on this cliff, rich with history, variety and personality will help you learn the skills you need to climb anywhere you please.
The south buttress is a prime area to climb in the colder months due to its southern exposure.
From EMS/IME in North Conway hook up with river rd. after less than a mile turn left on to west side road. Follow for a mile or so (you will pass the lobster trap restaurant). Turn right in to the white mountain hotel and resort, take your first right (toward the hotel) park in the lot near the maintenance shed. DO NOT PARK IN THE HOTEL LOT, that's for the sophisticated types. Walk up the road while hotel guests give you funny looks and find the trail in the corner of the main parking lot. The slabs will be in front of you another trail takes you south through the wood to access the south buttress
The Beginners Route is just as fun as the Standard Route but sees far less traffic mostly due in my mind to over sight by folks that are just used to climbing the Standard, also there is a bit of a committing section on the 5th pitch where you are required to run it out a bit on friction... So if you are very comfortable on Standard and you think you could keep your wits about you for a pitch of run out 5.5, next time you hit the slabs give this one a try, it really wont let you down...Pitch 1: ...[more]Browse More Classics in NH
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Jun 2, 2008
Today a friend and i did a really fun link up on the slabs taking South buttress of wankers wall 5.8R, to beginners direct 5.6R to a few pitches that dont seem to belong to any route to the right of standard, to the top... it was really fun!
after years on the slabs its fun to just go climb around and see what links up well... try it sometime... do you have any fave slab link ups...
a friend and i want to do a route here and im just wondering what is a Whitehorse rack.Im just curious about how many runners,slings and so on for this climb.nuts or cams.what works best.i have a set of 1-7 nuts
Here's a typical Whitehorse Slabs rack: a few draws, half dozen full-lenght slings, set of stoppers, a few cams from .5" to 2.5", and Tricams (to blue, handy in the many solution pockets). There's a lot of fixed gear on the popular routes and most of the belays are also fixed. The runouts are substantial (certainly on the easier routes) so go light on the rack---on many pitches 5.7 and below you may only be getting 3-5 pieces per pitch. But don't fear, the slabs are a friendly place and long, skin-grating slides are rare. Also, the walk-off is fast and pleasant and rapping may dump you right on top of other parties---please be considerate. Although it is possible to rap with one 60m rope, it takes a fair bit of cunning, so if you don't know the cliff well and plan to rappel, bring two ropes.