Avg: 3.6 from 29 votes
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Alain Comeau & Mike Heintz 1978, pitch 4 - Ed Webster & Sue Patenaude 1980|
|Page Views:||4,068 total · 31/month|
|Shared By:||Casey Bald on Apr 14, 2007|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionPitch 1: climb up the left-leaning dike and traverse right at an angle piton in a solution pocket, make technical moves up a overlap clipping two well spaced bolts. Make a difficult, mantle move (crux)stand up and clip a bolt (with relief) and follow the left trending dike on square cut holds to a two bolt anchor on the left.
Pitch 2: climb just right of the belay on small holds protected by two bolts. Continue up overlaps, placing traditional gear trending left to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 3: from the belay climb up and left with crack protection to a blank slab, make mandatory, unprotected, slab moves to a two bolt anchor on the headwall 5.8.
Pitch 4: from the top of the third pitch traverse right until below a left-facing corner capped by a steep, right-facing corner. There is a horizontal crack taking gear from 0.5-1" gear for the traditional anchor. Once the belay is established make your way up the left-facing dihedral placing small nuts and cams, surmount a small roof (5.10c) and moving into the striking, upper, right-facing corner. Stem and crimp up the corner (fixed knifeblade) and pull a difficult roof to good holds trending right to a two bolt anchor. 5.11a most people rap from here but there is another 10b slab pitch above.
To descend make four 60m rappels from your previously used bolt anchors to the ground.