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Routes in 5. Children's Crusade Wall

Beelzebub Corner, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Boy's Brigade T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Children's Crusade T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dress Left T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Eliminate, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Problem Child T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Reign of Dykes T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reign of Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Revolt of the Dike Brigade T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Alain Comeau & Mike Heintz 1978, pitch 4 - Ed Webster & Sue Patenaude 1980
Page Views: 4,068 total · 31/month
Shared By: Casey Bald on Apr 14, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Pitch 1: climb up the left-leaning dike and traverse right at an angle piton in a solution pocket, make technical moves up a overlap clipping two well spaced bolts. Make a difficult, mantle move (crux)stand up and clip a bolt (with relief) and follow the left trending dike on square cut holds to a two bolt anchor on the left.
Pitch 2: climb just right of the belay on small holds protected by two bolts. Continue up overlaps, placing traditional gear trending left to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 3: from the belay climb up and left with crack protection to a blank slab, make mandatory, unprotected, slab moves to a two bolt anchor on the headwall 5.8.
Pitch 4: from the top of the third pitch traverse right until below a left-facing corner capped by a steep, right-facing corner. There is a horizontal crack taking gear from 0.5-1" gear for the traditional anchor. Once the belay is established make your way up the left-facing dihedral placing small nuts and cams, surmount a small roof (5.10c) and moving into the striking, upper, right-facing corner. Stem and crimp up the corner (fixed knifeblade) and pull a difficult roof to good holds trending right to a two bolt anchor. 5.11a most people rap from here but there is another 10b slab pitch above.

To descend make four 60m rappels from your previously used bolt anchors to the ground.


The Children's Crusade Wall is located directly after the Ethereal Buttress on the right. Children's Crusade is two climbs left of the obvious, wide corner (Belzebub) making up the left side of the Ethereal Buttress.


This route is mostly bolted but in no way is a sport route, prepare for 5.9 moves above your bolts. The 5.11 direct finish is well protected with small to medium cams and nuts. A standard rack should work well for the full length route.


Anyone wondering why the mantles are unprotected - it's called stance drilling. The first ascencionist was happy to be able to stand somewhere for the 30 minutes it took to place that bolt with a hammer and drill bit. Something of a lost art these days, but these are the classic, enduring rock climbing routes. I'll always remember this route, but can hardly remember any of the sport climbs I did years ago. May 22, 2017
Rob Albert  
For my own reference later. Ignore if you don't want beta. Pitch 1 is run out; you have to do the moves before clipping the bolts on 2 mantles. Not too hard, but definitely head's up. No trad gear, 5.9ish. Pitch 2 has hard moves off of the belay, then gets easier as you go higher. Small to medium gear, 5.8+/5.9. Pitch 3 seems to have 2 options. The first few times I did it, I went up the striking crack, then the scary unprotected slab above. This last time, I went up the crack a little ways, then broke out right up another crack system, and followed that to the big ledge. It might have only been possible due to the drought, but that was well protected, fun, and went at about 5.8. The last pitch is as above, pin seemed ok, just make sure to clip it properly. We did not do the 5th pitch. Rack for the climb is some small/ medium cams, and 10 or so quickdraws. 2 ropes are helpful for getting down in 2 raps instead of 4. Careful on the second rap, as the ropes just barely make it down. Sep 26, 2016
Matt Stamplis
Boston, MA
Matt Stamplis   Boston, MA
The bolt at the start of the crux dihedral and the pins just above have been upgraded - I didn't feel it was necessary to back any of them up - just clip and go. Jul 2, 2014
Jeffrey Gagliano
Pennsburg, PA
Jeffrey Gagliano   Pennsburg, PA
I lead this back in like 04 or 05. Wowzers what a climb. Pitch one is a serious 5.9, while P4 is nothing short of astounding in both difficulty and positions. I placed 2 #3 steel nuts to supplement the near-worthless pins. Nov 22, 2010
Eric Dearing  
On the fourth pitch, in addition to medium-small (e.g., .5 camelot) to medium (e.g., 2 camelot) gear, I was happy to have some very small stuff (e.g., ball-nutz) to supplement a couple pins and a bolt.

And, I'll second Hamilton's double ropes suggestion as well as his note that 10c feels about right for the crux on the fifth pitch.

A stellar climb through all five pitches. Jul 21, 2009
L. Hamilton
  5.11a PG13
L. Hamilton  
  5.11a PG13
As of 7/17/09, there is a loose flake just below the belay on pitch 2. It's not necessary to grab it, but could be nasty if someone carelessly did.

The small 10c roof halfway up pitch 4 has a fairly sharp edge -- it's tough to keep the rope away from this, for leader or second. Double ropes might not be a bad idea.

The 10c slab moves on pitch 5, just above the belay, are protected by an old 1/4" bolt with spinning SMC hanger. Adds to the sense of exposure.

"A tremendous adventure," Ed Webster was right! Jul 20, 2009
The mantle on pitch 1 is damn intimidating. If you are inflexible, it is quite entertaining. I reached down and pulled up my foot while praying that I would somehow stay plastered on that one mantling hand. I'd love to do it again sometime - as a second, but my partners aren't into leading that spicy little move. May 5, 2009
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
f/a Heintz/Comeau '79 ? Direct Webster Mar 26, 2009