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Routes in 5. Children's Crusade Wall

Beelzebub Corner, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Boy's Brigade T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Children's Crusade T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dress Left T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Eliminate, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Problem Child T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Reign of Dykes T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reign of Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Revolt of the Dike Brigade T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: FA. P. Ross, F. Dean, M. Bowin 9/19/71 FFA 1,2,3 & 5 Doug Madara & Mark Richey 1978 4 & 6 P. Boissenault & F. Modugno 10/82
Page Views: 1,752 total, 18/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Nov 9, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

The Eliminate is one of the best long routes in the White Mountains. It climbs a direct line up the left side of the Children's Crusade Wall. The climb is surprisingly steep, with only one pitch, the third, feeling particularly slabby. The last two pitches climb through multiple roofs at the very top of the wall.

The climbing on The Eliminate is very sustained, with all pitches clocking in at 10d or harder. The protection is not particularly mindless. More often than not, finding suitable pro takes cunning and a cool head. Brassies in incipient seams and small cams behind blocks are the norm, especially on the first, fourth, and fifth pitches.

Pitch 1: 5.10d. The pitch, known as The Eliminate Direct, climbs up a corner and past a roof. The crux is pulling the roof and the pro is a bit complicated. Pull the roof and then wander up to a tree belay at the base of the crux corner. Some choose to avoid this pitch by climbing the dirty wide corner to the right at 5.7.

Pitch 2: 5.11c. This is the crux pitch. Stem between the tree and the wall and clip a high bolt. Make a committing transition move onto the wall. It is also possible to climb directly up the wall without using the tree (stick clip the bolt). Once established in the slight corner, follow it to its top and clip another bolt. From here, head directly left along a ledge and execute a 5.8R mantle to another ledge. Walk back right and belay at a fixed pin anchor.

Pitch 3: 5.10d. A long pitch. Climb the left facing corner to its end. The corner starts out slabby (crux) and thin, but steepens and widens until it forms a beautiful fingercrack layback. When the corner ends, wander up and right, past loose blocks and bushes, to a two bolt anchor below the steeper upper pitches.

Pitch 4: 5.10d PG-13. Head up through the overhangs above the belay. The pro is tricky here, as some blocks seem a bit more loose than others. Awkward climbing leads past a fixed knifeblade that can be backed up with some brass offsets. The pitch ends at a two bolt belay on a little ledge.

Pitch 5: 5.10d. Head straight up off the belay (10c), clipping a fixed pin for pro. At the next ledge, clip a bolt and traverse directly right (10d) into the steep, hanging dihedral. Climb up the dihedral, past four pins, to an exit on the right. From this airy stance, traverse right and pull an easy roof at the very top of the cliff. Belay at two bolts. Most parties rap from here.

Pitch 6: 5.8. If you choose, climb dirty rock to the top of the cliff.

Protection

The protection is often tricky. Bring micro nuts, and doubles of the smallest cams you have up to .5 Camalot. Singles from .75 to #2 Camalot.

To rappel, bring two ropes.

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Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
Do the first little corner/roof pitch rather than scampering around left. It's good and hard (not necessarily in that order). Nov 20, 2015
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
There is a stick for a stickclip at the belay. cLIP IT AND climb fro the ground. Great route. Nov 12, 2012
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
You don't have to use the tree but, it's a pretty nasty fall if you come off before the first gear. Nov 10, 2012
Morgan Patterson   CT  
Since you're using the tree to stem off isn't this technically an aid line? Nov 9, 2012
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
Thanks Jay, no, you're right. It does belong here as the climb defines the left margin of the childrens crusade wall and the long corner of pitch 2-3 is a good natural boundry. Apr 28, 2010
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
I swiped your FA info before deleting the route. Thanks man.

Do you think this belongs on the Wonder Wall page? I thought that since it starts close to Children's Crusade, it should be here, but it certainly comes close to other Wonder Wall routes up high. Apr 27, 2010
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
NICE, I even added the FA so I wouldn't peve anybody off. Damn! Apr 27, 2010
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Best long route on the Butt. Your gonna love the next pitches and then it's time for south buttress direct 11b r AO Apr 26, 2010
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
great climb, sustained and varied. offsets and "0 tcu's. Apr 6, 2010
apross  
I agree, its a superb route and probably still does not see much traffic?, shame. Nov 10, 2009