The Last Unicorn
Avg: 3.7 from 32 votes
Routes in Wonder Wall
|Arno's Corrner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Ladyslipper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Last Unicorn, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Rain Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Route to Root T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Science Friction Wall T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Sky Streak T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13|
|Three Saints T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Waiting for Webster T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Wonder Wall T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R|
|Wonders Never Cease T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R|
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Ed Webster, Jeff Phesant 1978|
|Page Views:||6,588 total, 51/month|
|Shared By:||Casey Bald on Apr 14, 2007|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionPitch 1a) Sky Streak start: From the two bolt anchor 25' off the Wonder Wall tree ledge, step left and climb a short, steep wall past two bolts, move up on easier ground to a ledge and a bolt. Traverse right to the first belay on The Last Unicorn. 5.10b.
Pitch 1b) Note: Rockfall may have altered the start of this pitch. The Sky Streak start is more commonly used. The original start: traverse down and right passing the latter two bolt anchor for almost a pitch and start a large, dying, spruce tree. Move left of the tree climbing on cool, angular holds past some pins to small, parallel corners and make a difficult move past a bolt (crux) and belay on a decent ledge at a two bolt anchor. 80' 5.10b.
Pitch 2) Make 5.9 moves up and left past two bolts to the base of a vertical, flake system, crank up the .10b crux past three bolts to an obvious overlap and undercling to a beautifully exposed belay. 100' 5.10b.
Pitch 3) Climb a striking and difficult, open corner past four bolts to a pin and make awesome layback moves to the top. 85' 5.10b.
Rappel from a bolt station 30' to your left to another two-bolt anchor on Science Friction Wall, two sixty-meter raps will get your down.