Avg: 3.5 from 44 votes
Routes in Atlantis Area
|Atlantis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Brimstone T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Burning Down The House T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Cold Day in Hell T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Crosswalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Hotter Than Hell T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Indian Summer T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13|
|Inferno T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Jacobs Ladder T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Lost Souls T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|New Wave Traverse (L to R Girdle of Whitehorse Ledge), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Surreal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|Tranquility T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Underground T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Unforgettable Fire T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13|
|Workshop Orgy (variation of Atlantis) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches|
|FA:||Ed Webster and Doug Madara, Sept .1976|
|Page Views:||6,953 total, 54/month|
|Shared By:||lee hansche on Jun 20, 2007|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionVaried and challenging climbing consistent at 5.9 with only a couple exceptions. Awesome exposure with a very exciting finish up the 5.10 crack. This is a must climb at the grade. Heading out the roof on the last pitch is so cool and exposed. You get a real bigwall feel for a relatively short route. Do the 5.10b finish. It's not stiff for the grade and protects well with finger-sized gear.
Pitch 1: (5.9) Head up the arching crack, feet on the slab. Interesting climbing with a powerful layback crux on smooth feet (red cam). Follow the crack to its end, and belay in a little hollow by a small tree.
Pitch 2: (5.5) Climb the wicked awkward, corner chimney to the large ledge. Fun and interesting, just weird. Belay on the ledge.
Pitch 3: (5.9) A very cool pitch. It would be a cool route even on its own, it brings to mind the Barber Wall. Walk 20 ft left on the ledge to a flake with good finger locks. Climb the flake with interesting footwork and intermittent good locks. When the flake ends, do a series of insecure, mantel moves to a nice belay ledge. Fixed anchor that may need to be backed up.
Pitch 4: (5.10b or 5.9) Climb up the chimney, crack corner (this is a very cool spot with strange rock on the left side). When you get to the roof, bang a right (5.9 crux). Follow the crack out right below the roof, not too bad once you get in to it, but it can be pumpy, so get through it quickly if you can in good style. You can continue right and rap from a tree and the route goes at 5.9, but the preferred finish follows the finger crack at the right end of the roof straight up laying back the finger crack. Just a few hard, footy moves get you to good holds and one final mantel move to the summit. I belayed from a horizontal then did a short easy pitch to the trees but you could go straight to the trees. Beware of rope drag (use all long runners on this pitch).
Seepage can be an issue so climb it on a dry day if you don't want an epic.