Type: Trad, 380 ft (115 m), 4 pitches
FA: B. Anderson and W. Christian Aug 1972
Page Views: 17,843 total · 86/month
Shared By: Lee Hansche on Jun 2, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Though it is a classic route on its own, the upper pitches are more perfect than the first, and I recommend Hotter Than Hell (5.9) to the ledge and finishing on the last 2 pitches of Inferno, this is THE classic link up on this part of the cliff. The true beginning is fun but a little wandering, not following a distinct feature. We will start from there though.

Pitch 0: Scramble on to the ledge below Atlantis. Scramble right then back left till you are comfortable on the ledge.

Pitch 1: (5.7) Climb up a groove, then on to a flake, and work your way left passing a pin and joining the big corner on the left for a few feet. Follow the crack to belay near a small tree. 130 FT.

Pitch 2: (5.4) Scramble left to gain a big tree ledge and walk along the ledge till you are under a beautiful crack system. Belay from here.

Pitch 3: (5.8) Follow a flake up past small tree until you can move left to a perfect crack. Jam this awesome crack to a belay ledge with a small tree. This crack is one of the best at the grade in the White Mountains. 100 ft.

Pitch 4: (5.8) Traverse left 10 feet to a steep flake system heading up and right, follow this to a few more exciting moves to the top of the cliff.

Pitches 3 and 4 can be combined as one long pitch but care must be taken to avoid rope drag. Most people just do them separately but I like the link up.

Rap with 2 ropes to the tree ledge, then another two rope rap to the ground.

Location Suggest change

Starts under the left-facing, corner system of Atlantis (5.10b). Wandering up a less than vertical face to the ledge before walking left for the upper pitches.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack.