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Routes in Inferno - Atlantis Area
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Atlantis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Burning Down The House T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cold Day in Hell T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Hotter Than Hell T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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In Your Face (Mid-Cliff Start, R of Upper Inferno) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Indian Summer (Lower Var. of Atlantis) T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 |
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Inferno T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jacobs Ladder T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lost Souls T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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New Wave Traverse (L to R Girdle of Whitehorse Ledge), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Surreal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Tranquility T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unforgettable Fire T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Workshop Orgy (upper Var. of Atlantis) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 380 ft (115 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | B. Anderson and W. Christian Aug 1972 |
| Page Views: | 14,512 total · 90/month |
| Shared By: | lee hansche on Jun 2, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall |
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Description
Though it is a classic route on its own, the upper pitches are more perfect than the first, and I recommend Hotter Than Hell (5.9) to the ledge and finishing on the last 2 pitches of Inferno, this is THE classic link up on this part of the cliff. The true beginning is fun but a little wandering, not following a distinct feature. We will start from there though.
Pitch 0: Scramble on to the ledge below Atlantis. Scramble right then back left till you are comfortable on the ledge.
Pitch 1: (5.7) Climb up a groove, then on to a flake, and work your way left passing a pin and joining the big corner on the left for a few feet. Follow the crack to belay near a small tree. 130 FT.
Pitch 2: (5.4) Scramble left to gain a big tree ledge and walk along the ledge till you are under a beautiful crack system. Belay from here.
Pitch 3: (5.8) Follow a flake up past small tree until you can move left to a perfect crack. Jam this awesome crack to a belay ledge with a small tree. This crack is one of the best at the grade in the White Mountains. 100 ft.
Pitch 4: (5.8) Traverse left 10 feet to a steep flake system heading up and right, follow this to a few more exciting moves to the top of the cliff.
Pitches 3 and 4 can be combined as one long pitch but care must be taken to avoid rope drag. Most people just do them separately but I like the link up.
Rap with 2 ropes to the tree ledge, then another two rope rap to the ground.
Pitch 0: Scramble on to the ledge below Atlantis. Scramble right then back left till you are comfortable on the ledge.
Pitch 1: (5.7) Climb up a groove, then on to a flake, and work your way left passing a pin and joining the big corner on the left for a few feet. Follow the crack to belay near a small tree. 130 FT.
Pitch 2: (5.4) Scramble left to gain a big tree ledge and walk along the ledge till you are under a beautiful crack system. Belay from here.
Pitch 3: (5.8) Follow a flake up past small tree until you can move left to a perfect crack. Jam this awesome crack to a belay ledge with a small tree. This crack is one of the best at the grade in the White Mountains. 100 ft.
Pitch 4: (5.8) Traverse left 10 feet to a steep flake system heading up and right, follow this to a few more exciting moves to the top of the cliff.
Pitches 3 and 4 can be combined as one long pitch but care must be taken to avoid rope drag. Most people just do them separately but I like the link up.
Rap with 2 ropes to the tree ledge, then another two rope rap to the ground.
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