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Routes in Atlantis Area
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Atlantis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Brimstone T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Burning Down The House T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cold Day in Hell T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Crosswalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hotter Than Hell T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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In Your Face T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Indian Summer T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13 |
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Inferno T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jacobs Ladder T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lost Souls T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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New Wave Traverse (L to R Girdle of Whitehorse Ledge), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Surreal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Tranquility T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Underground T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Unforgettable Fire T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Workshop Orgy (variation of Atlantis) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 380 ft, 4 pitches |
| FA: | B. Anderson and W. Christian Aug 1972 |
| Page Views: | 12,367 total · 87/month |
| Shared By: | lee hansche on Jun 2, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall |
Your Star Rating:
Description
Though it is a classic route on its own, the upper pitches are more perfect than the first, and I recommend Hotter Than Hell (5.9) to the ledge and finishing on the last 2 pitches of Inferno, this is THE classic link up on this part of the cliff. The true beginning is fun but a little wandering, not following a distinct feature. We will start from there though.
Pitch 0: Scramble on to the ledge below Atlantis. Scramble right then back left till you are comfortable on the ledge.
Pitch 1: (5.7) Climb up a groove, then on to a flake, and work your way left passing a pin and joining the big corner on the left for a few feet. Follow the crack to belay near a small tree. 130 FT.
Pitch 2: (5.4) Scramble left to gain a big tree ledge and walk along the ledge till you are under a beautiful crack system. Belay from here.
Pitch 3: (5.8) Follow a flake up past small tree until you can move left to a perfect crack. Jam this awesome crack to a belay ledge with a small tree. This crack is one of the best at the grade in the White Mountains. 100 ft.
Pitch 4: (5.8) Traverse left 10 feet to a steep flake system heading up and right, follow this to a few more exciting moves to the top of the cliff.
Pitches 3 and 4 can be combined as one long pitch but care must be taken to avoid rope drag. Most people just do them separately but I like the link up.
Rap with 2 ropes to the tree ledge, then another two rope rap to the ground.
Pitch 0: Scramble on to the ledge below Atlantis. Scramble right then back left till you are comfortable on the ledge.
Pitch 1: (5.7) Climb up a groove, then on to a flake, and work your way left passing a pin and joining the big corner on the left for a few feet. Follow the crack to belay near a small tree. 130 FT.
Pitch 2: (5.4) Scramble left to gain a big tree ledge and walk along the ledge till you are under a beautiful crack system. Belay from here.
Pitch 3: (5.8) Follow a flake up past small tree until you can move left to a perfect crack. Jam this awesome crack to a belay ledge with a small tree. This crack is one of the best at the grade in the White Mountains. 100 ft.
Pitch 4: (5.8) Traverse left 10 feet to a steep flake system heading up and right, follow this to a few more exciting moves to the top of the cliff.
Pitches 3 and 4 can be combined as one long pitch but care must be taken to avoid rope drag. Most people just do them separately but I like the link up.
Rap with 2 ropes to the tree ledge, then another two rope rap to the ground.
southern colo
Fredericton, New Brunswick
Easton, PA
P1 seems really contrived and is a bit difficult to follow. Just keep looking for the path of least resistance trending right then back left to the vertical section of the arching roof-crack. There was a small wasp nest in the bottom of the flake midway up as of early july, so be careful. Found 1 piton, 1 ratty fixed tricam, and a freshly fixed #1 camalot. Run it all the way to the trees on the ledge, no reason to stop and make it two pitches.
P2 - Awesome, 4 stars. Follow the obvious crack above the ledge.
P3 - Follow cracks and flakes starting left of the belay to a mantle at the top.
Descent - Walk left to a tree with slings and rings. Do two 2-rope rappels. If you only have one rope and you trust it enough, there is a single bolt with a quick-link in the middle of the first rap and a tree in the middle of the second. Jul 7, 2010
New Hampshire
Seattle, WA
Wolfeboro NH
hebron,nh
Hailey, ID
Wayne, PA
Asheville, NC
As for the top pitches- Yes indeed these are sweet and classic. However- I was under the expectation that there was going to be a long, continuous crack based on the photo you always see from the belay (see Handren book)... But in fact that lightning bolt crack is only 10 feet long, and the rest is more of a steep flake or broken crack system. Thus, I was a little let down by the climb overall. Still gorgeous high quality climbing but I had a slight misunderstanding about its epicness in terms of being a premier "crack climb". Sep 14, 2015
southern colo
North Conway, NH
Little Rock, AR