Type: Trad, 380 ft (115 m), 4 pitches
FA: B. Anderson and W. Christian Aug 1972
Page Views: 17,843 total · 86/month
Shared By: Lee Hansche on Jun 2, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


219 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

Though it is a classic route on its own, the upper pitches are more perfect than the first, and I recommend Hotter Than Hell (5.9) to the ledge and finishing on the last 2 pitches of Inferno, this is THE classic link up on this part of the cliff. The true beginning is fun but a little wandering, not following a distinct feature. We will start from there though.

Pitch 0: Scramble on to the ledge below Atlantis. Scramble right then back left till you are comfortable on the ledge.

Pitch 1: (5.7) Climb up a groove, then on to a flake, and work your way left passing a pin and joining the big corner on the left for a few feet. Follow the crack to belay near a small tree. 130 FT.

Pitch 2: (5.4) Scramble left to gain a big tree ledge and walk along the ledge till you are under a beautiful crack system. Belay from here.

Pitch 3: (5.8) Follow a flake up past small tree until you can move left to a perfect crack. Jam this awesome crack to a belay ledge with a small tree. This crack is one of the best at the grade in the White Mountains. 100 ft.

Pitch 4: (5.8) Traverse left 10 feet to a steep flake system heading up and right, follow this to a few more exciting moves to the top of the cliff.

Pitches 3 and 4 can be combined as one long pitch but care must be taken to avoid rope drag. Most people just do them separately but I like the link up.

Rap with 2 ropes to the tree ledge, then another two rope rap to the ground.

Location Suggest change

Starts under the left-facing, corner system of Atlantis (5.10b). Wandering up a less than vertical face to the ledge before walking left for the upper pitches.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack.

Photos

loading