Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Matt Peer and Craig Stemley, May 29, 1980
Page Views: 13,566 total · 64/month
Shared By: Lee Hansche on Jul 7, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


198 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

Low angle, face climbing at its best. A definite classic especially when linked up to Inferno (5.8) to make a full length route.

Pitch 1: 5.7 this is not really part of Hotter Than Hell, but it is the normal start. On the left end of the south buttress locate a slab ("Cathonian Slab" ) with 2 bolts on it. Climb the slab past the bolts (the climb " Brimstone" variously rated between 5.5 and 5.7) to the tree ledge where the route actually starts.

Alternately, hike steeply up to the left of this slab, then make a move back right (beware pine needles and leaves !) to gain the ledge at the top of the Cathonian Slab and walk right to below the start.

Pitch 2: 5.9 start under a couple small roofs, you will see a bolt above. Climb through the overlaps and clip the bolt. Make a spicy traverse right to gain your next bolt then head up the killer crimpy face climbing following the bolts. The crux is a mantel move in to an obvious niche 2/3 of the way up, the move is protected by a bolt. This was once a popular place to belay, but most parties climbing with a 60m rope will prefer to continue out of the niche and straight up to the tree belay at the ledge. And that's the end of the line.

I highly recommend finishing up Inferno (5.8). This is one of the best link ups in the Conway area.

For ease of reference, here's the description of the top of Inferno:
Pitch 3: (5.8) From the tree ledge belay...Follow a flake up past small tree until you can move left to a perfect crack. Jam this awesome crack to a belay ledge with a small tree. This crack is one of the best at the grade in the White Mountains. 100 ft.  
   
  Pitch 4: (5.8) Traverse left 10 feet to a steep flake system heading up and right, follow this to a few more exciting moves to the top of the cliff.  
   
  Pitches 3 and 4 can be combined as one long pitch but care must be taken to avoid rope drag. Most people just do them separately but I like the link up.  
   
  Rap with 2 ropes to the tree ledge, then another two rope rap to the ground.

Location Suggest change

All the way to the left on the South Buttress, you will find a slab with 2 bolts just right of a dirty gully. Climb the 2 bolt slab (spicy 5.7) or head up the gully and traverse on to the tree ledge where the route starts under a couple of small roofs above which you will see a bolt.

Protection Suggest change

There are many bolts, but gear comes in handy, so bring a normal/light rack.

Photos

loading