Hotter Than Hell
Avg: 3.3 from 108 votes
Routes in Atlantis Area
|Atlantis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Brimstone T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Burning Down The House T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Cold Day in Hell T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Crosswalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Hotter Than Hell T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Indian Summer T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13|
|Inferno T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Jacobs Ladder T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Lost Souls T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|New Wave Traverse (L to R Girdle of Whitehorse Ledge), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Surreal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|Tranquility T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Underground T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Unforgettable Fire T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13|
|Workshop Orgy (variation of Atlantis) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Matt Peer and Greg Stemley, May 29, 1980|
|Page Views:||8,018 total, 63/month|
|Shared By:||lee hansche on Jul 7, 2007|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionLow angle, face climbing at its best. A definite classic especially when linked up to Inferno (5.8) to make a full length route.
Pitch 1: 5.7 this is not really part of Hotter Than Hell, but it is the normal start. On the left end of the south buttress locate a slab with 2 bolts on it. Climb the slab past the bolts to the tree ledge where the route actually starts. Or you can climb around the slab to the left then traverse back right on to the ledge.
Pitch 2: 5.9 start under a couple small roofs, you will see a bolt above. Climb through the overlaps and clip the bolt. Make a spicy traverse right to gain your next bolt then head up the killer crimpy face climbing following the bolts. The crux is a mantel move in to an obvious niche 2/3 of the way up, the move is protected by a bolt. This was once a popular place to belay, but most parties climbing with a 60m rope will prefer to continue out of the niche and straight up to the tree belay at the ledge. And that's the end of the line.
I highly recommend finishing up Inferno (5.8). This is one of the best link ups in the Conway area.