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Routes in Atlantis Area

Atlantis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brimstone T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Burning Down The House T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cold Day in Hell T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crosswalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hotter Than Hell T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Indian Summer T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Inferno T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jacobs Ladder T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost Souls T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Wave Traverse (L to R Girdle of Whitehorse Ledge), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surreal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Tranquility T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Underground T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Unforgettable Fire T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Workshop Orgy (variation of Atlantis) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Matt Peer and Greg Stemley, May 29, 1980
Page Views: 8,018 total, 63/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jul 7, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Low angle, face climbing at its best. A definite classic especially when linked up to Inferno (5.8) to make a full length route.

Pitch 1: 5.7 this is not really part of Hotter Than Hell, but it is the normal start. On the left end of the south buttress locate a slab with 2 bolts on it. Climb the slab past the bolts to the tree ledge where the route actually starts. Or you can climb around the slab to the left then traverse back right on to the ledge.

Pitch 2: 5.9 start under a couple small roofs, you will see a bolt above. Climb through the overlaps and clip the bolt. Make a spicy traverse right to gain your next bolt then head up the killer crimpy face climbing following the bolts. The crux is a mantel move in to an obvious niche 2/3 of the way up, the move is protected by a bolt. This was once a popular place to belay, but most parties climbing with a 60m rope will prefer to continue out of the niche and straight up to the tree belay at the ledge. And that's the end of the line.

I highly recommend finishing up Inferno (5.8). This is one of the best link ups in the Conway area.

Location

All the way to the left on the South Buttress, you will find a slab with 2 bolts just right of a dirty gully. Climb the 2 bolt slab (spicy 5.7) or head up the gully and traverse on to the tree ledge where the route starts under a couple of small roofs above which you will see a bolt.

Protection

There are many bolts, but gear comes in handy, so bring a normal/light rack.
I just climbed this route yesterday, and am a bit confused with the start. Based on the picture in the guidebook, it looks like the route starts to the very left of the ledge, but also says there are rap slings on the tree which there are not. There are however rap slings on a tree on the right of the ledge. I climbed it from the left, which made for a huge traverse (~35ft) before turning vertical, and it felt really spicy. Another party clearly climbed it recently because there was a lot of chalk coming into the climb from the right side of the ledge, which would make for a much shorter traverse (~10ft) and which would not be spicy at all.
Maybe this explains why some people think the traverse is spicy and others don't?

Also I thought the route was good but not worth the hype. The upper pitches of Inferno were excellent. Aug 31, 2017
Christopher Woodall
Somerville, MA
 
Christopher Woodall   Somerville, MA
 
After the alcove my hand brushed an old paper wasp nest in a crack. Nothing stung me so I assume it is not active, but someone who is ok with tempting fate might want to clean it out of the crack. Jun 19, 2017
Christopher Woodall
Somerville, MA
 
Christopher Woodall   Somerville, MA
 
Tyler, I rapped the route with double 60m ropes the other day we we used almost the whole 60m to get to the ground. Maybe, you could get to the ledge on top of the 1st 5.7 slab pitch and scramble down climbers left with an 80m rope, but that would be pushing it I think. If you finish on Inferno and do one of the routes on Cosmic Crag you will summit Whitehorse and can then walkoff, as per standard route or the hikers trail (look up the trails and maybe a trail map ahead of time because they can be a little hard to find if you haven't used them before). That would save you having to bring a tag line too. Jun 19, 2017
I am wondering if it would be possible to rappel HTH and Inferno with a single 80 meter rope? It would be nice to avoid dragging a tag line up. Thanks for any info! Jun 3, 2017
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
After reading these comments, then doing the traverse, I immediately thought to myself "That's it!?" after I did it. I mean, be careful, but it's pretty easy relative to the rest of the climb and is pretty well-protected too... I'd be hesitant to even call it PG to be honest. Do not let those comments discourage you from getting on this route. If you are confident enough to hop on a 5.9 at Whitehorse, you will be fine! Nov 2, 2016
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
There have been bees there many times..including the f/a..not suprising, but a stunner if you just toss for the jam Aug 10, 2015
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
our first climb ever in North Conway. Quite the introduction. Felt stiff for a 9, but, it did lead to the upper pitches of Inferno, making it worth the effort Jun 23, 2015
manuel rangel
Arizona
manuel rangel   Arizona
Am I the only one that noticed the rusted SMC hangers? Every hanger and bolt should be replaced on this pitch. I am sure the ASCA would happily donate SS bolts and hangers. The pitch would remain intense but safe. Jun 19, 2015
Ryan Nelling
  5.9
Ryan Nelling  
  5.9
I climbed this earlier in the week and don't recall the traverse being too dangerous. Not to say it isn't, but from what I remember - it's a very thoughtful sequence, however all the moves are there. There may be some danger for the 2nd, if they unclip the bolt and fall...the rope stretch may lead them back down to the ledge. My partner is very good at delicate moves though so I wasn't worried about her falling.

Incredible line! Awesome, thin moves and very careful climbing. If you don't climb Inferno after this you're silly. Aug 9, 2013
Michael Smith
Framingham, MA
 
Michael Smith   Framingham, MA
 
I just got on this yesterday for the first time. my opinion is that you could hurt yourself if you blew it on the traverse, in agreement with a few others of you above. however, i didn't find those moves to be terribly challenging. i thought higher up the moves thinned out a bit, or at least, i had a harder time finding the holds. by that point though, you're in good shape and a fall wouldn't be dangerous (IMO). i plugged a few pieces of gear in addition to the bolts, and it didn't then seem runout to me, except for the pendulum to the ledge potential during the lower traverse.
It's a super route though. I can't wait to get back on it. Apr 29, 2013
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
Im looking for something to work on thin face climbing while on lead. So safe then? Im not too good on runouts. Nov 19, 2012
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
First j - you won't fall off, it's pretty low angle. maybe a few pieces to 2" ? maybe a 2 1/2". Some extra slings.

Finish up inferno- very cool- bring some extra medium cams Nov 19, 2012
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
How fixed is the second pitch of this? How many bolts/spacing? How are the falls? Nov 19, 2012
Ksween
Wakefield, RI
Ksween   Wakefield, RI
I climbed this last week with 2 relatively new seconds, To protect the traverse I lead with 2 single ropes as if they were doubles. When the first second completed the traverse I had them reclip the other rope to the 2nd bolt after the traverse. Youll take a bit of a swing if you fall but wont fall over the roof Jul 22, 2011
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
To avoid the "spice"- start directly under the end of the traverse and go up to the bolt, maybe even a bit of gear. It's not very hard and the second should not have a problem. We started this way for Burning Down the House. Sep 20, 2010
Chris Norfolk
Fredericton, New Brunswick
 
Chris Norfolk   Fredericton, New Brunswick
 
I'm not a regular to the area but... I've led the Saigon's and didn't see any issues for an inexperienced second. Don't get me wrong... the moves on HTH are there, it's a great climb, but I wouldn't want my second to blow it after unclipping the bolt heading into the traverse.

Just thought I'd mention it up there since Inferno's upper pitches are so nice that's a logical place to introduce someone to the sport.

Cheers. Sep 7, 2010
MJO
 
MJO  
 
True, Hotter Than Hell should not be climbed on a hot day, and the heat and humidity does make it grades harder/scarier. I'm a big fan of face climbs and I find this one to be one of my favorites. The bolts are evenly spaced and right where I need them.

The other climbs I was refering to were Jacobs Ladder, Atlantis, Cemetary Gates, as well as the ones you quoted. I know some of these are graded harder than Hotter but share pitches of similar grades and quality.

If you go over to Cathedral and enjoy The Siagon Sisters (5.8) I think that Hotter is a great next step up.

Thanks for the comment and suggestions. Autumn is nearly upon us; enjoy the climbing! Aug 30, 2010
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
MJO,
I would have to disagree and say that I find Hotter to be spicy. The route is safe no doubt, but the climbing can be insecure at spots and somewhat run out (while still with in the PG range.) If some one unfamiliar with thin face climbing gets on this, especially on a hot day as, many make the mistake of doing, it can certainly be scary.

As for solid 5.9's on this part of the cliff, the only other classic 5.9's I'm familiar with on this part would be Cold Day and Childrens crusade., Both of which I consider to be slightly harder, but not as spicy as Hotter....IMHO. Aug 29, 2010
MJO
 
MJO  
 
Great Climb; but I would not consider it spicy. It is one of the most solid 5.9's on this part of the ledge. I find it most challanging (and fun!) getting into the alcove, but there is a bolt at you waist.

The traverse is solid. Just take your time. All the moves are there. Aug 29, 2010
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Maybe- Thin Air ? lakeview ? Jul 10, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
if you blew off the traverse at the wrong spot you could hit the ledge (leading or following)... that sounds worth a little warning to me if you might be thinking of bringing a less experienced climber on it... other routes might have longer runouts but no danger for the second... Jul 8, 2010
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Spicey ? Better watch out for most of the others lines around then. Jul 7, 2010
Chris Norfolk
Fredericton, New Brunswick
 
Chris Norfolk   Fredericton, New Brunswick
 
Our party did this line as a means to get at Inferno on our last trip to Whitehorse. Great line but be prepared. It's spicy. Perhaps not ideal for taking inexperienced seconds due to tricky traverses. Jan 5, 2010
A great link up is to go from Hotter than Hell to Tranquility for one pitch to the last pitch of Inferno. Fabulous and fun. May 5, 2009