Hotter Than Hell

Low angle, face climbing at its best. A New England classic especially when linked up to Inferno (5.8) to make a full length route.

Pitch 1: 5.7 this is not really part of Hotter Than Hell, but it is the normal start. On the left end of the south buttress locate a slab ("Cathonian Slab" ) with 2 bolts on it. Climb the slab past the bolts (the climb " Brimstone" variously rated between 5.5 and 5.7) to the tree ledge where the route actually starts.

Alternately, hike steeply up to the left of this slab, then make a move back right (beware pine needles and leaves !) to gain the ledge at the top of the Cathonian Slab and walk right to below the start.

Pitch 2: 5.9 start under a couple small roofs, you will see a bolt above. Climb through the overlaps and clip the bolt. Make a spicy traverse right to gain your next bolt then head up the killer crimpy face climbing following the bolts. The crux is a mantel move in to an obvious niche 2/3 of the way up, the move is protected by a bolt. (The niche was a belay point in the 50-meter rope days.) Continue out of the niche and straight up to the tree belay at the ledge. And that's the end of the line.

I highly recommend finishing up Inferno (5.8). This is one of the best link ups in the Conway area.

For ease of reference, here's the description of the top of Inferno:

Pitch 3: (5.8) From the tree ledge belay...Follow a flake up past small tree until you can move left to a perfect crack. Jam this awesome crack to a belay ledge with a small tree. This crack is one of the best at the grade in the White Mountains. 100 ft.  

  Pitch 4: (5.8) Traverse left 10 feet to a steep flake system heading up and right, follow this to a few more exciting moves to the top of the cliff.  

  Pitches 3 and 4 can be combined as one long pitch but care must be taken to avoid rope drag. Most people just do them separately but I like the link up.  

  Rap with 2 ropes to the tree ledge, then another two rope rap to the ground.

All the way to the left on the South Buttress, you will find a slab with 2 bolts just right of a dirty gully. Climb the 2 bolt slab (spicy 5.7) or head up the gully and traverse on to the tree ledge where the route starts under a couple of small roofs above which you will see a bolt.

There are many bolts, but gear comes in handy, so bring a normal/light rack.