Hotter Than Hell
Avg: 3.3 from 108 votes
|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Matt Peer and Greg Stemley, May 29, 1980|
|Page Views:||8,103 total · 62/month|
|Shared By:||lee hansche on Jul 7, 2007|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
DescriptionLow angle, face climbing at its best. A definite classic especially when linked up to Inferno (5.8) to make a full length route.
Pitch 1: 5.7 this is not really part of Hotter Than Hell, but it is the normal start. On the left end of the south buttress locate a slab with 2 bolts on it. Climb the slab past the bolts to the tree ledge where the route actually starts. Or you can climb around the slab to the left then traverse back right on to the ledge.
Pitch 2: 5.9 start under a couple small roofs, you will see a bolt above. Climb through the overlaps and clip the bolt. Make a spicy traverse right to gain your next bolt then head up the killer crimpy face climbing following the bolts. The crux is a mantel move in to an obvious niche 2/3 of the way up, the move is protected by a bolt. This was once a popular place to belay, but most parties climbing with a 60m rope will prefer to continue out of the niche and straight up to the tree belay at the ledge. And that's the end of the line.
I highly recommend finishing up Inferno (5.8). This is one of the best link ups in the Conway area.