Avg: 3.7 from 41 votes
Routes in Atlantis Area
|Atlantis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Brimstone T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Burning Down The House T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Cold Day in Hell T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Crosswalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Hotter Than Hell T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Indian Summer T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13|
|Inferno T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Jacobs Ladder T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Lost Souls T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|New Wave Traverse (L to R Girdle of Whitehorse Ledge), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Surreal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|Tranquility T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Underground T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Unforgettable Fire T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13|
|Workshop Orgy (variation of Atlantis) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||John Sykes, Bill Lowther et al|
|Page Views:||4,737 total, 36/month|
|Shared By:||Casey Bald on Apr 14, 2007|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionRHall, NH Admin. - On 17OCT16 the following edits,previously in COMMENTS from L. Hamliton and others, were made for clarity:
a) The START was identified
b) the real P1 was added
c) P1 of the original submission became P2, P2>P3, etc.
Lee Hansche adds: "the first pitch adds to the climb and i saw no reason to avoid it...pitch 3, the arete with 2 bolts is a little spooky and fun...
all in all a great climb..."
START: For the original first pitch of Lost Souls, start at the same gearing-up spot used for Atlantis, Inferno, Last Unicorn, etc. Instead of scrambling up the long 3rd class section that accesses those routes, look for a ledge with several trees about 30 feet up and right from the start of scrambling. The first bolt of the Lost Souls can be seen from the ground, on a slab about ten feet above the tree ledge. Scramble up to the tree ledge and set the first belay.
Pitch 1 - Slab climbing (tricky when wet) leads up to the obvious bolt. Zig right and then left to surmount the headwall, and continue up a slab past several fixed pitons, eventually reaching a bolt belay below the big headwall pitch of Lost Souls. About 100 feet, 5.9 PG.
Pitch 2: climb up to a bolt under a small roof, mantle the lip (pin) and traverse right pulling another small roof at a bolt, traverse right at the base of the head wall and clip a bolt (crux) follow decently spaced bolts to a bolt and two pin anchor next to a flake 5.10.
Pitch 3. traverse left 25 feet and place trad pro at the base of the arete (large nut or hex useful). Climb the beautiful arete on bolts (exposed, 5.9+) to a two bolt anchor below a wide dihedral.
Pitch 4: climb the beautiful dihedral using crack and face holds to a half driven in lost arrow, continue up the corner to an awkward layback move (crux). Traverse left 20 feet to the two bolt anchor on Atlantis.
Rappel straight down in two raps with 60 meter ropes.