Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Lowther RIP
Page Views: 2,453 total · 16/month
Shared By: burlap submariner on Apr 18, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

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Jacobs ladder is the leftmost route on the south buttress found by walking up hill from the starts common to tranquility, Hotter than Hell, and Cold day in hell. Once up the hill a ways belay for the first pitch near a birch tree next to a large boulder/clifflet.

Pitch One: climb straight up on moderate terrain past two bolt to a small roof/overlap. Find a hidden pin above the overlap and mantle at 5.9+. Follow a bolt and gear placements to a tree ledge and belay off any number of trees.

Pitch Two: Above the treeledge there is a steep featured slab with a horizontal crack running through it. Follow two bolts on sustained 5.10 climbing to the horizontal, plug gear and move up past a bolt and a pin to the next tree ledge, belay at trees.

Pitch Three: Above this tree ledge is a Large roof that spans the entire left side of the cliff, there are two bolt lines, the one on the right is Fiddler on the Roof (5.10d) and the left hand route is Jacobs Ladder. For Jacobs Ladder you want to climb a moderate crack system to the left of the bolts for Fiddler, once established on a ledge system follow a line of bolts up and on nicely sustained 5.10+ face and slab climbing to a two bolt anchor below the left side of the roof.

Pitch four: Move Left from the bolted belay and swing around the roof on moderate to easy face climbing to reach bolts and a rest before the headwall. At the third bolt move right on delicate smears and balance moves, clip your last bolt and make hard moves to the top of the cliff and a two bolt anchor.

Note: The last two pitches can be combined with double ropes or a lot of slings, this makes for a very special experience on the south buttress and wonderful exposure.

Rap with one rope pitch by pitch or two ropes twice to the ground (One rap to the inferno tree ledge, second to the ground).


a single rack of cams to 3", nuts.