Type: Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Doug Madara, Paul Ross, June 30 1978
Page Views: 157 total · 5/month
Shared By: Zak Munro on Jun 18, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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This climb is broken up into an upper and lower section. (Lower Section 160' 10c) P1. Start at the base of HTH heading up to the first bolt then breaking left around the large block to a left facing corner to a ledge with a tree. P2. From the ledge break back out right following up the black streaked slightly dirty face shooting for a flake(this section can be a bit heady). Once you've cleared your head clip a rusty 1/4 inch bolt, and commit to a insecure mantle on slopers and crimps, then continue up to the big ledge. (Upper Section 110' 10b) Head up to a left facing corner then traverse right on a ledge. Finish by clipping up an old bolt ladder.


Left of Hotter Than Hell


Single rack to 3''


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john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
UMMMMM..... HTH wasn't there for the f/a, so you didn't clip the bolt. Surreal started left of HTH and then kinda straight up past horizontals. The top bolt had broken off sometime after the f/a ..i know because we replaced it for the f/a of Unforgettable Fire in 1987. Jun 20, 2016
Zak Munro
VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
Zak Munro   VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
Sorry John, I was just working off the information in the most recent N Conway guide book and my own experience from being on the route. Thanks for the route correction though, i'll change it! Jun 20, 2016
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Ya..Jerry sometimes combined routes in the new book....I'm not a big fan of doing that. Jun 21, 2016