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Routes in Atlantis Area

Atlantis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brimstone T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Burning Down The House T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cold Day in Hell T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crosswalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hotter Than Hell T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Indian Summer T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Inferno T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jacobs Ladder T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost Souls T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Wave Traverse (L to R Girdle of Whitehorse Ledge), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surreal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Tranquility T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Underground T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Unforgettable Fire T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Workshop Orgy (variation of Atlantis) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Doug Madara, Paul Ross, June 30 1978
Page Views: 126 total, 7/month
Shared By: Zak Munro on Jun 18, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

This climb is broken up into an upper and lower section. (Lower Section 160' 10c) P1. Start at the base of HTH heading up to the first bolt then breaking left around the large block to a left facing corner to a ledge with a tree. P2. From the ledge break back out right following up the black streaked slightly dirty face shooting for a flake(this section can be a bit heady). Once you've cleared your head clip a rusty 1/4 inch bolt, and commit to a insecure mantle on slopers and crimps, then continue up to the big ledge. (Upper Section 110' 10b) Head up to a left facing corner then traverse right on a ledge. Finish by clipping up an old bolt ladder.

Location

Left of Hotter Than Hell

Protection

Single rack to 3''

Photos

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john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Ya..Jerry sometimes combined routes in the new book....I'm not a big fan of doing that. Jun 21, 2016
Zak Munro
VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
 
Zak Munro   VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
 
Sorry John, I was just working off the information in the most recent N Conway guide book and my own experience from being on the route. Thanks for the route correction though, i'll change it! Jun 20, 2016
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
UMMMMM..... HTH wasn't there for the f/a, so you didn't clip the bolt. Surreal started left of HTH and then kinda straight up past horizontals. The top bolt had broken off sometime after the f/a ..i know because we replaced it for the f/a of Unforgettable Fire in 1987. Jun 20, 2016