| Type: | Trad, 270 ft (82 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 44.05123, -71.16901 |
| FA: | Tom and Haydie Callaghan, Fall 1990 |
| Page Views: | 123 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Nate I on Nov 26, 2024 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
Awesome full length route up the south buttress. The second pitch is a classic for the grade at Whitehorse and I thought the first pitch was quite worthy too.
The first pitch takes a fairly direct line up the tranquility slab crossing over both hotter than hell and tranquility. There are a couple runs on this pitch, maybe at most 5.8 R. Start up the Cathonian slab as you would for Hotter than Hell or Cold Day in Hell. Climb through the blockey roof behind the rap tree for the Cathonian slab to get established on the slab. Clip the the second bolt of Hotter than Hell and then head straight up from there, heading slightly right to reach a short lived diagonaling crack. Place gear and then make a bit of a runout to reach a pin on the left side of a horizontal (I replaced this piton fall 2024). Continue straight up crossing the diagonal crack of Tranquility aiming straight towards two bolts that protect some fun face climbing, around 5.10a. Topout straight up and belay off a tree.
The second pitch ascends the face climber's left of the south buttress rap line. Start at a short and broken left facing corner aiming for a high first bolt. Climb easily up to the first bolt, traverse left, clipping a pin and make a precarious stand up move to establish in a stance before clipping the second bolt. Cryptic and thin face climbing moves (crux, 11c) lead up to a big flake and a pin. DIagonal right to another bolt before heading up towards easier terrain, moving past two more bolts and some tricky bulges. After the last bolt, climb through an easy but runout section aiming for a horizontal crack. At the crack, move right, pull over the bulge, and finish at the south buttress rappel tree.



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