Type: Trad, 270 ft (82 m), 2 pitches
GPS: 44.05123, -71.16901
FA: Tom and Haydie Callaghan, Fall 1990
Page Views: 123 total · 6/month
Shared By: Nate I on Nov 26, 2024
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Awesome full length route up the south buttress.  The second pitch is a classic for the grade at Whitehorse and I thought the first pitch was quite worthy too.  

The first pitch takes a fairly direct line up the tranquility slab crossing over both hotter than hell and tranquility.  There are a couple runs on this pitch, maybe at most 5.8 R.  Start up the Cathonian slab as you would for Hotter than Hell or Cold Day in Hell.  Climb through the blockey roof behind the rap tree for the Cathonian slab to get established on the slab.  Clip the the second bolt of Hotter than Hell and then head straight up from there, heading slightly right to reach a short lived diagonaling crack.  Place gear and then make a bit of a runout to reach a pin on the left side of a horizontal (I replaced this piton fall 2024).  Continue straight up crossing the diagonal crack of Tranquility aiming straight towards two bolts that protect some fun face climbing, around 5.10a.  Topout straight up and belay off a tree.

The second pitch ascends the face climber's left of the south buttress rap line.  Start at a short and broken left facing corner aiming for a high first bolt.  Climb easily up to the first bolt, traverse left, clipping a pin and make a precarious stand up move to establish in a stance before clipping the second bolt.  Cryptic and thin face climbing moves (crux, 11c) lead up to a big flake and a pin.  DIagonal right to another bolt before heading up towards easier terrain, moving past two more bolts and some tricky bulges.  After the last bolt, climb through an easy but runout section aiming for a horizontal crack.  At the crack, move right, pull over the bulge, and finish at the south buttress rappel tree.

Location Suggest change

At the base of the Cathonian slab.  P1 starts just behind the rap tree at the top of the Cathonian slab.  P1 can be done as one long pitch with a 70 m rope.

P2 starts climbers left of the south buttress rappel line in a broken corner.

Protection Suggest change

Nothing bigger than #1
All bolts replaced fall 2024
P1 has 3 bolts and 1 pin
P2 has 5 bolts and 2 pins
P1 it is nice to have some tiny gear (tiny cams, ball nuts, rps) in a few places and p2 is mostly mid size cams .3 to 1

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