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Routes in Atlantis Area

Atlantis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brimstone T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Burning Down The House T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cold Day in Hell T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crosswalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hotter Than Hell T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
In Your Face T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Indian Summer T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Inferno T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jacobs Ladder T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost Souls T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Wave Traverse (L to R Girdle of Whitehorse Ledge), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surreal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Tranquility T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Underground T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Unforgettable Fire T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Workshop Orgy (variation of Atlantis) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Micheal Hartrich, Jeff Phesant, mid 70's
Page Views: 3,531 total · 33/month
Shared By: burlap submariner on Nov 22, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

start in the same flake system as inferno and move up and left at a ledge aiming for a thin finger crack. Jam the crack until its end and step left on to a small corner with a thin crack. protect, step up and commit to 5.10 moves over a bulge to easier ground to the trees.

Location

starts directly to the left of the second pitch handcrack on inferno on the ledge above the tranquility slab (cold day in hell, hotter than hell). Rappel from trees on summit.

Protection

micro cams-.5-#3 cams, nuts and brassies.

Photos

E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
I was thinking of adding this one as it makes a great link up with Cold Day or Hotter then Hell, but I hadn't done the whole route. Has any one else done the whole route or just this pitch? Is that all that's done now a days? Nov 22, 2009
BALDY
Gilmanton, NH
 
BALDY   Gilmanton, NH
 
I know the original first pitch climbs a wandering, not-so protection friendly 5.7 (ledgefall potential) line in the space between HTH and Cold Day in Hell. This also is where the most common decent route for the South Buttress falls....which is why it's often avoided.
Also, it's possible to climb the last pitch of inferno instead of the heady .10c last pitch of tranquility...which seems to be the most popular option. Nov 23, 2009
If you dont do the headwall section of tranquility and escape right into inferno its like 9+/10a, the headwall is part of the route to the top of the cliff. Feb 24, 2010
Benjaminadk
San Pedro, California
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
i linked the lower pitches of tranquility to inferno the other day. basically went up to the first bolt of Hotter than Hell and worked left to a block with a 5" crack. layback this into a 20' left facing corner that takes good gear. another nice layback leads to a small ledge and a 20' traverse (right) to a finger crack up through a V slot and a belay directly underneath Inferno money pitch. some PG climbing with the above mentioned ledge fall potential. but a fun couple pitches. Sep 26, 2013
Eric Chabot
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b
Eric Chabot   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b
Awesome route! Must do at the grade. Well protected, perfect fingerlocks. For full value, jam in some small cams (c3s) and crank the awesome direct finish through the bulge at the top on (mostly) positive holds. Oct 20, 2013
Matt Desenberg
Limerick, ME
 
Matt Desenberg   Limerick, ME
 
Great pitch!! Jul 12, 2014
Jeff Booth
Groton, MA
Jeff Booth   Groton, MA
I agree with Baldy about the original first pitch that crosses the HtH line ..... which I think the Handren book calls the Tranquility Crack graded at 5.7. The crack runs dry on the route and while the continued face climbing is moderate, there is no pro for 30 feet when the last piece is 29 feet above the belay ledge. So .... I think that section is 5.5-5.6X Jun 18, 2015
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
Finger crack pitch is the best kept secret in North Conway ...... Really really fun, superb and interesting..... And yes I would say 5.9.

The top out is really tricky and a bit scary, slightly odd, maybe not worth the time? It's about 10.b Oct 26, 2015
jackkelly00
new hampshire
jackkelly00   new hampshire
+1 on Jeff booths comments regarding the runout on original p1. Jun 25, 2017

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