Type: Trad
FA: August '79 Jim Dunn, Martha Morris, Ken Sims, Alain Comeau
Page Views: 4,995 total · 35/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 24, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


36 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Lean off the block to clip the first bolt. Make a spooky step across the divide and climb past 2 more bolts on very small holds gaining a nice rest and more good pro. Climb down and left to a flake/crack that you will follow up and left to easier climbing and a two bolt anchor.
There are two cruxes in my opinion; the bolted section is definitely one of them and also the first part of the flake though not as hard it is challenging (small wires help protect this part).

It's a nice 5.10a link up to do Seventh Seal (10a) to Loose Lips, however you have many choices of approach.

2 rope rappel to the ground.

Location

On the top of Ethereal Buttress, there lies a block stand facing the cliff on the right side of the block. There is a line of bolts up an alarmingly blank wall. That's your route.

Protection

3 bolts and a standard rack with some small wires. Double ropes are helpful.

Photos

Doubles are a really good idea on this route as after the crux bolts the route jogs down and left a bit. If using one rope, bring a long runner to prevent rope drag on the gear placed above the bolts. This piece is also a must to protect your second from swinging thirty feet or so if he/she blows the moves after the bolts. Apr 14, 2007
AWinters
NH
 
AWinters   NH  
 
Stepping off the block and getting situated was definitely the crux for me. Mighty thin right there... Feb 13, 2009
David Aguasca!
New York
David Aguasca!   New York
Double ropes help, but...I don't recommend taking an inexperienced second on this one. The swinging fall after cleaning the second bolt, before the crack, is pretty heinous.

Oh, and bring LOTS of small wires. I brought only "some" and regretted it...scary... Apr 10, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.10a
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.10a
i seem to remember that with double ropes you can place a piece above the second bolt on the crux to protect the fall... the route has tricky rope work but it can be made safe for sure... Apr 11, 2009
Annaconda
Seattle, WA
 
Annaconda   Seattle, WA
 
If you are short, like me at 5'6", stepping off that block is a *literal* leap of faith ... Jun 3, 2009
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
years ago a friend of mine - Gwen - Literally fell across the void and pulled herself on to the wall- on lead. Gwen is 4'10" Sep 30, 2009
above the last bolt make damn shure you traverse left. If you were to go up and right its 11+ and if you go up and left its 10+R both widely spaced bolted routes. Apr 20, 2010
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
I loved this climb. Quite interesting, and dramatic.

The crack part is not actually 5.10. The 10 is at the beginning, on a steep face with bolted protection that is necessary in order to reach the crack. The crack itself is way cool and is at most 5.9. So in other words, the climbing eases off as you go towards the anchor. Nov 5, 2015