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Routes in 6. Echo Roof

Aiwass T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Ancient Artifacts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Answered Prayers S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Avenger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Bit's N Pieces T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Carolina Dreamin' T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Dunn's Diversion T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Echo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ethereal Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Full Circle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Future Shock T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Holy Land (aka "Promised Land") T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ladies & Gentlemen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Last Tango T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Loose Lips T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Man's Best Friend S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Persona T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Relic Hunter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Return to Innocence T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seventh Seal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Short Order T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sleeping Beauty T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unwanted Guests T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Up Rope S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wizard Of Oz S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Ed Webster 81'
Page Views: 244 total · 2/month
Shared By: lee hansche on May 31, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer

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Description

A really nice route that sees little traffic for its quality and grade. Mixed protection and a variety of techniques will show you a good time. Route finding is an issue for many on the crux pitch, but protection is good.

Pitch 1: (5.7) Start by making a strange, mantel move to gain a bolt(an old rusty one if memory serves. Climb slabby moves up to a old fixed pin, belay here from the pin and gear (small cams) behind flakes.

Pitch 2: (5.9) Climb up right to a pin and continue on flakes to a bolt. Head up and right on thin holds to another bolt. Make a long move left to a rail (sloper), stand up and clip the last of your bolts. Climb a killer, right-facing flake to the top. Belay from a tree at the top.

Rap down with 2 ropes.

Location

This could be considered the far, right end of the Slabs Area or the far right of the Echo Roof area. At any rate, it is just left of the dirty gully that separates the slabs from the South Buttress.

It follows the very blunt corner for the most part.

Protection

A standard selection of trad gear bolts and pins protect. Belay from gear on pitch 1 and a tree on pitch 2. Rap with 2 ropes.

Photos

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Will Stat  
 
Did this route as a warm up in one pitch with 60m doubles and the second half was surprisingly great. The first pitch has a thin layer of lichen on it now and the friction climbing above the P1 crux was less fun since a slip would cause you to deck in some places. It may be worth traversing in from the left just to do P2. Sep 5, 2016
John Gassel
Boston, MA
  5.9 PG13
John Gassel   Boston, MA
  5.9 PG13
A fun climb with committing moves. Not sure why but I wasn't expecting the crux of this to be slabby. Don't make that same mistake.

There are 5.9 slab moves encountered at the first two bolts on P2 of this route (midway up) on the rounded arete, one of them with a ledge just below you once you commit. It's got a heady feel to it.

Beware rope drag if you link pitches together. I linked with P1 of Avenger and had enough rope with 60m doubles - barely. Jun 16, 2014
kevin neville
Somerville, MA
  5.8+
kevin neville   Somerville, MA
  5.8+
The start is cool, takes figuring out but then not too hard. Ran it in one pitch, barely barely reaching the rap tree (60m). Definitely grade it as a slab climb, and if you're not happy at 5.8 or 5.8+ slab, you won't be happy. Oct 28, 2013
MJO
 
MJO  
 
Nice climb; it is on my favorites list. I agree, use of double ropes is advantages and taller climbers have an easier time with the crux. The lower finger crack on the right side of the lower nose is a fun start, although I often find it a little wet and dirty....."that's what she said". Jul 20, 2010
Gabe13 Flanders
Eaton Center, New Hampshire
 
Gabe13 Flanders   Eaton Center, New Hampshire
 
After the last pin, on the upper ledge, it is possible to go left (slabby) or right (reachy). Once you gain the friable flakes and clip the first bolt, stepping left/ going straight up is a nice 5.10 variation. Jul 26, 2009
Gabe13 Flanders
Eaton Center, New Hampshire
 
Gabe13 Flanders   Eaton Center, New Hampshire
 
The original pitch one kind of sucks in my opinion- Add fun and variety by starting up the Avenger finger crack on the right side of the nose.

You can do the whole shebang with a 70m rope, Short Order wanders so doubles are nice. Jun 21, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
thanks Mar 26, 2009
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
f/a Ed Webster '81 ? Mar 26, 2009

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