Avg: 3.1 from 23 votes
Routes in 6. Echo Roof
|Aiwass T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|Ancient Artifacts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Answered Prayers S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Avenger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Bit's N Pieces T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Carolina Dreamin' T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R|
|Dunn's Diversion T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X|
|Echo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Ethereal Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Full Circle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Future Shock T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Holy Land (aka "Promised Land") T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Ladies & Gentlemen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Last Tango T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Loose Lips T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Man's Best Friend S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Persona T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Relic Hunter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Return to Innocence T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Seventh Seal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Short Order T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Sleeping Beauty T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Unwanted Guests T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Up Rope S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Wizard Of Oz S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Type:||Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||FA Alain Comeau, Franck Vernoyand Matt Stein FFA Alain Comeau and Bryan Becker|
|Page Views:||218 total, 2/month|
|Shared By:||lee hansche on Jul 30, 2008|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionA fantastic route that I give top marks right up there with any of the best climbs of similar grade in the valley. It reminded me of the crux 3rd pitch of Serenity Crack 5.10d in Yosemite, so if you've climbed that it gives you an idea. Ed Webster's book gives it 5.10d and Jerry Handren gives it 5.10c. It could go either way, but I thought 10c was right on.
Pitch 1: Climb up the corner. Jamming, chimneying, and stemming then step around a couple of small trees and in to a system of cracks that you jam and lock to a sloping ledge at a two pin anchor. Belay here or run it in to one pitch(works fine).
Pitch 2: Not much route finding needed here. Follow the sweet clean finger crack angling out left. Connect the locks and smear your feet as you make your way to a nice topout and a 2 bolt anchor.
LocationLeft of Short Order 5.9 look for a left facing corner leading to a series of short cracks and a final pretty left leaning finger crack.
To start scramble to the left around pitch 1 of Short Order and belay from trees at the base of the corner.
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