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Routes in 6. Echo Roof

Aiwass T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Ancient Artifacts T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Answered Prayers S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Avenger T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Bit's N Pieces T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Carolina Dreamin' T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Dunn's Diversion T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Echo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ethereal Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Full Circle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Future Shock T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Holy Land (aka "Promised Land") T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ladies & Gentlemen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Last Tango T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Loose Lips T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Man's Best Friend S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Persona T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Relic Hunter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Return to Innocence T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Seventh Seal T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Short Order T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sleeping Beauty T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unwanted Guests T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Up Rope S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wizard Of Oz S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Paul Ross, Hugo and Isabella Tosco 1980
Page Views: 710 total, 11/month
Shared By: Brian on Jun 18, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

The first pitch is popular. I don't think the entire route is ever done so I'm including the first pitch only.

1st pitch (5.8). Find a right facing corner off the ground under the middle of the Echo Roof. Climb the corner. At the top of the corner is a bolt and a mantle on to a smooth slab. Above that tread right to some solution pockets. Go up to the anchor and rap from there with one ropes.

Location

Just to the right of Last Tango.

Protection

Standard rack. For solution pockets: Brown tri-cam, #3 Camalot.

Photos

john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Interesting..we originally called Bulletproof "5.8 maybe" like saigon..kinda an afterthought grade Apr 25, 2016
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
The move at the bolt is, if I remember correctly, somewhat height-dependent. Above, Kevin could have gotten on the line of "Bulletproof" ('old school 5.9). Apr 25, 2016
Tony Telesco
Newport, VT
 
Tony Telesco   Newport, VT
 
This is a fun little pitch, 5.8 for sure. Really enjoyed the sudden transition from the layback crack/ face climbing to a classic slab march. A 60 meter rope is more than enough to allow for lowering, rapping or a TR session. Oct 14, 2014
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
>>"Moves to get above the bolt are 5.8+ or 5.9. And then I backed off, after 20 minutes of trying to figure out a foot sequence I actually believed in. It was cold, and my rubber wasn't sticking reliably, but still.... I wouldn't recommend this unless you're comfortable on 5.10 slab.">>

"...comfortable on 5.10 slab"?? Of course everyone's perception of a route is unique to their strengths and weaknesses but I think you are going to unnecessarily scare people away from this route with those dire warnings. There is a bolt at the crux and right above that there are two nice holes. One takes a great brown tri-cam and the other a #3 Camalot. This pitch is 5.8 tops. And even though it may seem counter-intuitive cold actually enhances climbing rubber stickiness. Oct 28, 2013
kevin neville
Somerville, MA
5.9
kevin neville   Somerville, MA
5.9
Moves to get above the bolt are 5.8+ or 5.9. And then I backed off, after 20 minutes of trying to figure out a foot sequence I actually believed in. It was cold, and my rubber wasn't sticking reliably, but still.... I wouldn't recommend this unless you're comfortable on 5.10 slab. Oct 27, 2013