Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Alain Comeau, et.al. June 1976
Page Views: 4,215 total · 29/month
Shared By: Ian McEleney on Jan 19, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


75 Opinions

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Description

Make a few unprotected moves to a ledge. Small cam placements (green Alien/blue TCU) can be found here. Then a little friction will get you to and up the crack. At the top move around the right side of the giant block to the tree and anchors shared with The Ethereal Crack.

This route is easily toproped after leading The Beelzebub Corner.

Location

Just beyond The Echo Roof itself lies a giant leaning flake, The Ethereal Crack Buttress. This route climbs the right of two cracks on the buttress.

Protection

Gear to 1", small nuts are very useful.

Photos

its pretty important to add that even if you are a 5.10 climber the moves to acess the crack are mandatory 5.7 unprotected, there is however a small slot on the traverse ledge that can take a small tri
cam in a horizontal but use caution as even if you do fall above that piece you are looking at a ledge fall. Jun 18, 2007
Tuxebo
Middletown, RI
Tuxebo   Middletown, RI
This crack is a lot harder than it looks from the ground. With sharp fingerlocks, long reaches and a run out start this climb really makes you work for it. Sep 5, 2008
Jeremiah Moore
Cincinnati, OH
Jeremiah Moore   Cincinnati, OH
Awesome climb! bring a purple metolius for the first piece and a green alien for a second bomber piece.

don't fondle ethereal crack on your way down! Aug 10, 2009
Yeah, don't blow those slab moves whatever you do. The gear probably won't help until you get that first finger lock and can set a bomber piece there. The 5.7 slab moves are all there, though, so don't stress, just be careful. Fantastic pitch--I could do it every day and be happy. Aug 10, 2009
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
 
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, ME
 
This is no giveaway .10a! Like the others have said, be very careful traversing right to the start of the crack---it's just a move or two, and not very hard, but you would not want to blow it. For some reason (perhaps it's the overhanging canopy of trees) but this climb always seems greasy to me. If it's 80 and muggy, I'd stay away---but this climb is perfect for one of those crisp October afternoons! May 14, 2014
kevin neville
Oconomowoc WI
  5.10a
kevin neville   Oconomowoc WI
  5.10a
Heading up the ramp, there's a spot at foot level and to the left of the climb where a 0.5 fits nicely. I think it would keep you from decking, but still a savage swing. After that, oh, it's a beautiful route. Jun 9, 2014