Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Ed Webster and Bryan Becker, June 22, 1975
Page Views: 4,522 total · 31/month
Shared By: Ian McEleney on Jan 19, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


44 Opinions

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Description

Make a few unprotected moves to a ledge and move left across it to reach the crack. Climb past a couple of pods in the crack to where it gets ridiculously small. "Jam" and friction for about 25 feet to the top of the tiny crack and either escape right or finish left at 5.11a.

This climb is easily toproped after leading The Beelzebub Corner.

Location

Just beyond The Echo Roof itself lies a giant leaning flake, The Ethereal Crack Buttress. This route climbs the left of two cracks on the buttress.

Protection

Gear to 1", small nuts are very useful.

Photos

Tuxebo
Middletown, RI
Tuxebo   Middletown, RI
This is a really fun although super thin crack that can't be jammed unless your fingers are shoelace thickness. It is more of a gear protected face climb than a crack climb but really fun nonetheless. Jul 9, 2008
David Aguasca!
New York
David Aguasca!   New York
I'd call it a pseudo-crack, hee hee Sep 14, 2008
There are some finger jams or tips-jams with long reaches between them. You'll be worked if you don't have the reach and if your slab footwork isn't in order. Also bring your brass nuts. Don't let that frighten you, though--it's a STELLAR pitch!
PS-- If you're hesitating at all, do Seventh Seal first to get the feel for the rock--also a terrific route! Aug 10, 2009
My sausage fingers think this thing is hard and mean. May 8, 2018
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I always saw this one as more of a slab climb. at least in the crux. As for it being hard and mean...YUP! May 13, 2018