Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: See comments below.
Page Views: 2,952 total · 26/month
Shared By: cjdrover on Jun 20, 2014
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

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Description Suggest change

So, historically Science Friction Wall is a full-length climb up the South Buttress. However, in modern times only the 4th (crux) pitch is commonly done. Even this pitch has a complicated history with 3 separate finishes - this entry describes the most common, known as the Webster Finish.

Begin at the end of Sky Streak, opting to take the left hand finish and belay at three bolts under a small roof. Pass the roof on the right, then follow intricate climbing, clipping the (upgraded) bolts up the black streak which marks a blunt arete. A large undercling flake marks the crux - hard climbing leads to the right of the bolt line. At the end of the crux sequence, traverse right on fantastic, airy 5.10 face climbing hundreds of feet in the air. Two bolts lead to the ledge at the top of the Last Unicorn.

Location Suggest change

As mentioned, in the middle of the Wonder Wall. Begin on Sky Streak, then trend left to obvious roof.

Protection Suggest change

All quickdraws, 12 or so.