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The Optimator

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar T 
90 proof T 
Annunaki T 
Backside Luge T 
Baroque T 
Beer Run T 
Bow Flex T 
Brodie Machine T 
Casey's Route T 
Charlie's Pillar T 
Charlie's Pillar Direct Start T,TR 
Chick Flick T 
Choss Eliminate T,TR 
Ditch 'em T 
Double Bock T 
Gunning For Gonzo T 
Hayutake T 
Hefe Weissen T 
Jews On Crack T 
Jive Crack T 
Kitchen Sink T 
Lady Pillar T 
Long Island Iced Ted T 
Miller Genuine Draft T 
Mudslide T 
Neat T 
Optimator T 
Pat's Blue Ribbon T 
Ram Implosion Wing T 
Road Soda T 
Sardikar T 
Season of the Worm, The T 
Soul Fire T 
St. Pauli Girl T 
Two Scoops T 
Unknown T 
Unnamed 11+ T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Optimator Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.0758, -109.5948 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 22,714
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Joe Gartner on Sep 24, 2002
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
BETA PHOTO: wall as seen from the parking area. the obvious r...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


The Optimator Wall is in Indian Creek (as you may know) and is between the 4x4 wall and the Bridger Jacks.

Getting There 

Get There: take the 2 track road towards the "jacks" but fork left towards a south facing black wall.

Climbing Season

Weather station 9.7 miles from here

37 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',19],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Optimator

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Optimator:
Charlie's Pillar   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Charlie's Pillar Direct Start   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Lady Pillar   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 110'   
Neat   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Long Island Iced Ted   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Mudslide   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Sardikar   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Casey's Route   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Hayutake   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Soul Fire   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Jews On Crack   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
Kitchen Sink   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Road Soda   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Annunaki   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Unknown   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13     Trad, 100'   
Baroque   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 80'   
Two Scoops   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 65'   
Double Bock   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Optimator   5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c     Trad, 110'   
Pat's Blue Ribbon   5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Optimator

Featured Route For The Optimator
Rock Climbing Photo: the crux begins

Soul Fire 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c  UT : Moab Area : ... : The Optimator
On the left side of the wall is this attractive splitter. Pretty much thin hands all the way, with extra thin hands finishing to the chains. It is possible to stem most the route off the crack to the right, but the business at the end is still hard, tight hands. Watch out for the loose chockstones to the right... there are death blocks waiting to fall on the belayer. Also be careful pulling your ropes, we managed to get one stuck on a death block but fortunately someone else was planning on...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Comments on The Optimator Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bryson Slothower
Mar 28, 2005
At the cattle guard after crossing the creek turn left, away from the Jacks. turn right onto an access road and follow it for about 3/4 a mile to the hill below the cliff. There are a few camp sites along the access road and a turn around at the end. This will save you some walking.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 1, 2005
Great wall with longer pitches. Nice moring to noon-sun. Take your 70M rope!
By Sarah Kate
From: Seattle, WA
May 5, 2009
Favorite wall on the creek so far for the ladies. My hands are approx. WC .75-1 for "perfect hands", had a total blast all day up there. Afternoon shade, quiet. DO BRING THE 70 and a couple of nuts and brassies if you're looking at Hayduke.
By LeeAB
From: ABQ, NM
May 11, 2009
Sarah, you do mean BD .75 and 1 camalots for perfect hands...right? I'm not even sure if my 18 month old could get perfect hands in a #1 WC friend crack.
By poundit14
From: Laramie, WY
Apr 15, 2010
This is a good wall that gets plenty of afternoon shade, and is inhabited by grumpy old men, constantly reminding you of how tough they are by downgrading all the climbing, while tr'ing laps on Neat.
By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Nov 3, 2010
Found some gear here on Saturday 10/30. Send me a message if it's yours.
By MountainShralper
Apr 19, 2011
!!LOST CAMERA!! - Cannon Powershot SD970 (silver) in a soft blue case... I put it on top of the car in the parking lot at the base of The Optimator, so it might be found there or it might be along the bumpy road out. :-(
$200 REWARD!! (feel free to walk the road as a team looking for it...I'm in Colorado or I would)

I did go back to look not 15 minutes after loosing it and couldn't find it, so the only options left are... it bounced off the road and is now out of sight from the road, the non-climbers in the red truck saw it fall of my car and grabbed it or the spirits of Indian Creek took it/ made it vanish because I took a small rock for my collection (won't do that again!).

Thank you in advance!

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