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Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirque
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Dreamweaver 

M2-3

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Alpine, Grade III
Consensus: M2 [details]
FA: unknown
Season: early summer - usually July
Page Views: 24,489
Submitted By: ClimbandMine on Apr 4, 2002

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7/4/04.

Description 

This is a combination of 2 submissions from 2002 (the earlier entry retaining the contributor status):

I can't believe no one put this classic in the database already. This is the obvious, beautiful couloir left of the Flying Buttress on Mt. Meeker. Most years by June the melt/freeze cycle will provide the two short mixed sections the make up the cruxes, and narrowings in the couloir make for some of the most beautiful alpine ice you'll ever climb. Earlier most years its a snow slog, later and you'll hike a lot of scree. Descend toward the Loft, and find the traversing ledge to bypass any steep ice. A must-do alpine route, even with the crowds!

From Nate Christiansen:

This beautiful couloir starts about 500' below and left of Flying Buttress on a grade 2 snow field. The field eventually steepens and narrows after about 500 or 600 feet, right at the base of Flying Buttress. Winter conditions are great for the first half, but the spring conditions will be the best. No belay will be needed the first half. Rope up when couloir begins. Dry tool most the way up until you hit a view off to your right. If you want to exit with bad weather, now is the time. Rap slings are all over the first half. The second half provides the short crux. When the couloir ends, you will be about 300' from the summit. The easiest thing to do now is to summit and find cairns while hiking west towards Long's Peak. The cairns will lead you just east of the huge avalanche-prone Apron. Switch-back down while following the rock marking until you hit the lower section of the Apron. Here, glissading is doable and fun after the climb.


Protection 

A light set of nuts, a couple cams, and a couple screws should be all you need.

From Nate Christiansen:
Small/med stoppers with some small-med/hand sized cams. Late spring will require some screws. 11cm should do fine.



Photos of Dreamweaver Slideshow Add Photo
Meeker summit ridge.
Meeker summit ridge.
Meeker East Cirque on 5/24/03, with the remains of the the old stone cabin in the foreground.
Meeker East Cirque on 5/24/03, with the remains of...
High on Dreamweaver 6/16/04.  Climber- Greg Jones, Photographer- John Bicknell
High on Dreamweaver 6/16/04. Climber- Greg Jones,...
The best moves on Dream Weaver are right here...
The best moves on Dream Weaver are right here...
Steve Line leading into the crux of Dreamweaver...we measured the slope at 60 degrees in the steepest sections.
Steve Line leading into the crux of Dreamweaver......
Above the Flying Buttress
Above the Flying Buttress
Mid-way up the route.
Mid-way up the route.
The opening moves of Dream Weaver when the couloir gets narrow.
The opening moves of Dream Weaver when the couloir...
'Sneaky' Pete Lardy getting into the first ice pitch on Dreamweaver
'Sneaky' Pete Lardy getting into the first ice pit...
KC strikes a pose with the Man in the Mountain, Martha, and the Mummy Range, 6/1/2008.
KC strikes a pose with the Man in the Mountain, Ma...
Brian entering the couloir where there is usually a chockstone to climb over.  There is still enough snow there this season that there was no chockstone, or even rocky step, in evidence.  June 5, 2005.
Brian entering the couloir where there is usually ...
BETA PHOTO
Looking at the first half of the route up to the bench between Meeker and Flying Buttress. December, 2003
BETA PHOTO: Looking at the first half of the route up to the b...
The crux. (when we were there)
The crux. (when we were there)
Skiing Dreamweaver on Mt. Meeker. This line needs to get skied more! Only two 30m rappels are needed in the middle crux. You can can escape to skier's left at the top of the Flying Buttress Col and finish on the approach slopes to Darkstar, this avoids a rappel/downclimb in the lower Dreamweaver couloir.
Skiing Dreamweaver on Mt. Meeker. This line needs ...
David approaching the first technical mixed section.
David approaching the first technical mixed sectio...
Looking up at our second pitch.  The rock step at the top was pretty big, but not too difficult.  There was a pretty big "hole" underneath it, where the ice had melted away.  Photo taken on the first day of summer, 2003.
Looking up at our second pitch. The rock step at ...
Conditions on April 17, 2004.
Conditions on April 17, 2004.
7/4/04, upper half of the route.
7/4/04, upper half of the route.
Jean Aschenbrenner high on the route.
Jean Aschenbrenner high on the route.
Jean Aschenbrenner and Christa Cline above the Flying Buttress.
Jean Aschenbrenner and Christa Cline above the Fly...
View of Estes Park and Lumpy Ridge from the Dreamweaver couloir.
View of Estes Park and Lumpy Ridge from the Dreamw...
Luke Taylor plowing through the snow approaching a steeper section in the middle of Dreamweaver on 1/2/05.
Luke Taylor plowing through the snow approaching a...
Brian climbing toward the first mixed step about 300' up into the couloir proper.  Normally this is a rocky step, but this weekend it was covered almost entirely in snow with a little rotten ice and rock in evidence.  He soon regretted the fact that I still hd the rope in my pack.  June 5, 2005.
Brian climbing toward the first mixed step about 3...
Looking down from above the crux secition in the upper couilor.
Looking down from above the crux secition in the u...
Pete Lardy starting up Dreamweaver with the Flying Buttress on the right.
Pete Lardy starting up Dreamweaver with the Flying...
5-29-04--The obvious couloir left of the flying buttress
BETA PHOTO: 5-29-04--The obvious couloir left of the flying bu...
Chris Burk from Boulder flies over the Flying Buttress and dominates a solo climb up Dreamweaver. Thanks for kickin' the 2nd half, Chris.
Chris Burk from Boulder flies over the Flying Butt...
drew follows, sucking air!
drew follows, sucking air!
The upper half of the route has three steps.
The upper half of the route has three steps.
looking into the couloir
looking into the couloir
DW from Chasm Junction; June 4th, 2014.
DW from Chasm Junction; June 4th, 2014.
Comments on Dreamweaver Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 1, 2012
By KansasBoarder
Jun 7, 2014

CONDITION REPORT 

Matt "Sunshine" Lovas works his way through the first crux on the upper portion of Dreamweaver.
Matt "Sunshine" Lovas works his way through the first crux on the upper portion of Dreamweaver.


Climbed DW on Wednesday, June 4th with Elise Booth and Matt Lovas. Super fun ascent, our groups' first mixed route. The upper crux in the lower couloir, and all three upper cruxes were water ice. The snow in between was supportive and consistent - we climbed from 7-11am. Very few mixed moves required at this point, though things are melting fast.

By Page Weil
Jun 22, 2014

CONDITION REPORT 

Route has intermixed snowfields and near vertical (WI 2-3). Some patches where snow has melted out but GREAT conditions for the most part. Mixed climbing. Entire route can be protected with rock gear, though a short screw may be helpful.

Route from a distance:

Route from just below Chasm View Junction.
Route from just below Chasm View Junction.


Snowfield below start of route:
Lower snowfield.
Lower snowfield.


First ice step:
First ice crux.
First ice crux.


Second ice step:
Second ice crux.
Second ice crux.


Third ice step (solid water ice):
3rd ice step (solid water ice).
3rd ice step (solid water ice).


Last ice step (water ice with rocky sections)
Last ice step.
Last ice step.

By Jim D.
Apr 10, 2002

Anyone know about conditions yet on Dreamweaver or other "alpine" routes nearby? Thanks.

By Anonymous Coward
Apr 29, 2002

Climbed Dreamweaver up to the escape behind the Flying Buttress on April 28. High winds and some some during the 26th, 27th, and 28th have left lots of unconsolidated snow behind. We were postholing to depths of 1 to 2 ft with sections of pure wading. The steeper narrow sections were also unconsolidated snow w/ lots of (loose) rock exposed. Expect falling rock if following another party up this route.

On the descent we got a good look at Dark Star. It looked to fairly full of snow, but appears to be unconsolidated. The gully leading up to Dark Star was unconsolidated snow.

The Right Chimney has no snow in it.

Talked to fellow who climbed Lamb's Slide on Apr 28. He also found unconsolidated snow, but the postholing was not as bad on on Dreamweaver.

Basically, we found winterlike conditions up there. The new snow will require a couple of freeze/thaw cycles to firm up.

There are a couple of small water ice smears coming off the Broadway and there is still water ice in Peacock Falls. We saw no water ice in Dreamweaver or Dark Star. My guess is that the chances of any real water ice forming in any of these routes is very slim. I hope I am wrong.

By Owen Lunz
May 16, 2002

Climbed Dreamweaver on May 5th but have been procrastinating. We encountered packed snow conditions and were punching in about to our ankles through most of the route. Overall, it was a spectacular route but lacked any true ice. There were a few short sections of rock along the way where you are forced to pull over some short steps.

By Anonymous Coward
May 19, 2002

Went to Long's Peak yesterday (5/18) beautiful day, sun til late afternoon, w/ light winds. We went up Lamb's Slide, w/ the intent for Broadway to Kiener's. Snow was good up Lamb's, good steps in ankle deep consild. At Broadway cut off we saw 2 parties of 2 turning back from the [roadway traverse due to bad snow condit. We went up Lamb's a bit more and found deeper unconsild. Snow, punching through to the gray alpine ice below. (Unconsild. snow was 10+" deep) the reports from other climbers bailing said Broadway was the same way. one last note... we watched BIG slides come off Kiener's (every 10 min...) and shoot over Broadway to Mill's. Pretty much did this the whole time in sun. Cory Fleagle, Boulder Co

By Anonymous Coward
May 20, 2002

DW is going fast. Where the upper couloir should be all ice, its snow with mixed steps, one of which is a tight chimney/chockstone that's not too fun. Rumor is its the worst its been in years.

By Chris Fisher
Dec 5, 2002

Did this route yesterday, it yielded no ice but made for a lot of fun drytooling 5.5 terrain. Can't wait to do it this spring with some ice.

By Jonas Feinstein
Mar 26, 2003

Any one seen the ice conditions on Dreamweaver since the storm last week, i.e. is it settling?

By Steve Line
Apr 14, 2003

Climbed it Friday, April 11, 2003. No ice present - all snow which made it harder, but not impossible. It was a fun climb. There was no avalanche danger, most snow was pretty well packed. The gully was a little powdery. This was the first time I climbed in the area and didn't research the descent well and that was a mistake. Do your homework.

Steve Line

By Steve Line
Apr 14, 2003

Oh, and here's a nice set of Dreamweaver pictures somebody put on the web: www.boulder.swri.edu/~throop/images/Meeker_May02/

By Jim D.
Apr 27, 2003

Does anyone have recent info on conditions for Dreamweaver? Thanks.

By Anonymous Coward
May 19, 2003

Climbed Dreamweaver on Friday. All snow conditions. Did not use crampons, ropes or pro. Three Chimneys of rock were the only real challenges, but very climbable. The weather was very warm up there all of last week through the past weekend meaning conditions will change quickly. I expect to see some alpine ice forming in the next two weeks.

Snow (well consolidated)

By Mark D.
From: Santa Fe
May 19, 2003

Dreamweaver this past Friday and it was a complete snow climb except for three short rock chimneys. We did not use crampons, ropes or pro and it took about 3.5 hours to summit from our tent in the Meeker Cirque. Upon our hike out Saturday afternoon we noticed that the snow pack was diminishing greatly above treeline. My impression was that avalanche danger is not too bad as long as you are off the steep angles by mid-afternoon. Alpine Ice should start forming if the sunny, dry days persist. I imagine Dark Star was mostly snow as well. The Loft was nice and the rock band was downclimbable without a rope. That may change soon as the snow melts.

Dreamweaver this past Friday and it was a complete snow climb except for three short rock chimneys. We did not use crampons, ropes or pro and it took about 3.5 hours to summit from our tent in the Meeker Cirque. Upon our hike out Saturday afternoon we noticed that the snow pack was diminishing greatly above treeline. My impression was that avalanche danger is not too bad as long as you are off the steep angles by mid-afternoon. Alpine Ice should start forming if the sunny, dry days persist. I imagine Dark Star was mostly snow as well. The Loft was nice and the rock band was downclimbable without a rope. That may change soon as the snow melts.

By Michael Lozon
May 25, 2003

Did this route on 5/24. Great snow conditions except for a few rock steps - one in the lower part and a couple in the upper section. No rope, no pro - just perfect snow conditions and many thanks to the parties in front of us for the steps! We counted three other parties (or 8 others) ahead of our group of three. We summited around 11:45AM.-

Watch the decent if you come off the Loft via. the normal ledges. The snow was turning to mashed potatoes at that point and made for an "interesting" downclimb. In hindsight, we felt a short rappel would have been a better option to get to a little safer position on the ledge. An earlier start may have helped too. We left the TH at around 4:45AM.

I'll try and post some pics soon.

Great climb!Mike

By Warren Teissier
Jun 9, 2003

We did Dream Weaver on 6/8/03.

We started fairly early and found hard packed snow most of the way.

There is a small rock step at the beginning of the lower section and a 30 ft rock step before the notch where the Flying Buttress ends. No chimney yet, although a deep hole on the upper step signalled that it will be appearing soon.

The upper section also had two rock steps. At the beginning and at the end of the "ribbon". They were both small.

There was a little ice on the rock steps but nothing to get too excited about .

We found the need to put on our crampons early due to the hard snow conditions but only used one ice axe. We belayed a couple of the steps with rock gear although they proved to be easier than they looked (5.0-5.2?).

We summited by 9am and found the snow was rapidly turning into slush. It was a wet ride down the [Loft]. We saw at least 6 parties on the climb including ours. Some folks we starting up it at 11am!

Fun climb.

Cheers, WT

By Brendan Sheehan
Jun 14, 2003

Climbed it on 6-14. Snow was soft in many places, icy in a few. Put on crampons about 2/3 of the way up. (Was on the route from roughly 6:30 to 10:30.) Found about four small rock steps that were not too hard, but I found a second tool helpful on a couple of them. the main "ledge" area of the loft decent was very wet, loose and snowy. It seemed sketchy to me so we belayed a traverse of maybe 100 feet.

By Julian Smith
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 15, 2003

Lots of folks on Dreamweaver today. Counted at least 10. Snow was hard enough to need crampons from the bottom of the first snow field. Mostly it is a snow climb with ice on the couple of rock steps. Overall, it is in very good shape for climbing. Good steps are kicked in all the way up. Was on the summit by 8:30 AM. The snow on the Loft was pretty soft, but made for a very good butt slide. Use the ramp on the right side of the Loft to get down. Look for cairns.

By Dan Singhisen
Jun 26, 2003

Peter, how long do you feel this climb will be in, close to its current condition, w/mainly snow up the couloir? Any ideas?

By Brad Bond
Jun 27, 2003

I was wondering if anyone knows if this has had a ski descent? Either way, are their any experienced skiers who have climbed this in spring conditions and would be willing to offer their opinion on what this would entail? It sounds like it's a little late this year, but it looks pretty rad.

By Peter Gram
Administrator
From: New York, NY
Jul 11, 2003

Dan - I just saw your comment today, so this maybe to late to be of use. By now, this route will defintely be a lot of rock in the lower section and very icy up high. In the end of June, there was already a tricky spot where we had to dry tool up about 15 feet of rock.

By James Balasalle
Jul 16, 2003

This is a great climb. Climbed it on 6/23/03, and conditions were great. Good snow down low, and ice up high. We roped up for almost the whole climb, so it took us a while. Although, we simul-climbed a decent amount above the Flying Buttress. Which, was where I felt the crux was.

Also, I felt this was a great first alpine/ice lead (it was for me). I was able to protect the whole thing with rock gear. I felt pretty secure, most of the way up. It was a little insecure up higher were there was ice, but the pro was good, it's not too steep, and the conditions were great. I took 2 short, technical tools, but I only used 1.

Phenomenal route.

By Anonymous Coward
Nov 21, 2003

The Neptune employee actually finished the route and said it was a nightmare of loose snow and not a lick of ice.

By ac
Nov 21, 2003

I did that route a few years ago in similar condition at the same time of the year - pure dry tooling and some open hand climbing the whole way, save for a 20 foot section of thin ice in the back of a chimney at one point. The outrage was that the chinmey was too narrow and I couldn't get to the ice! So I ended up dry tooling even that section. It was perhaps more interesting and challenging as a result. The point is - if you go up there expecting it to be a dry tool fest, it can be enjoyable. But if you go expecting a snow/ice climb then, yes, you will be dissappointed. Wait for spring to do Dreamweaver if you don't want to do any rock climbing on it.

By Jason Carter
From: Monument, CO
Dec 11, 2003
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

12/6/03: Lower part of route has good snow for kicking steps and front pointing. There is very little ice anywhere on the route. Crampons and axes are still necessary for grapling with the frozen dirt and snow covered rock. All the difficulties consist of constrictions in the gully and overcoming chockstones of various dimensions and position. All 7 constrictions, I think 4 on the lower section of the route and 3 on the upper section, protect well with stoppers, and are mostly overcome with 2-3 moves up to 5.4 difficulty. Rack up with a full set of stoppers.

After exiting the upper section, continue straight up towards Meeker's summit and then break to the North. If you break North too soon you'll end up on slabs that want to spit you off the hill.

The route is longer than it appears. I'd say a classic due to the magnificent vistas of Meeker, The Flying Buttress and Longs as well as the not difficult, but at times puzzling cruxes.

By Anonymous Coward
May 9, 2004

Did Dreamweaver on 5/8/04. The couloir is all snow and rock, virtually no ice. We came with a light rack and rope, but they never left the packs. I would expect that this may change quickly as the snow seemed to be disappearing before our eyes. But for now the route is in great M2+ conditions.

The descent is also more straightforward than it appears. Head for the apparent weakness between the cliffs below the loft and the cliffs below the summit of Meeker. Keep your eyes peeled for the cairns that guide you to the ledge that traverses the cliffband. This is key to a straightforward descent. Once below the ledge/cliffband, you can walk on snow all the way to the goblin forest tent sites. If you start early, I would recommend avoiding the temptation to carry snowshoes. We left the parking lot at 2:20, started the couloir at 5:30, summited at 8, and were back at the trailhead at noon. All snow was still solid, but starting to get cruddy. If you start later, the snowshoes may be more useful, but why start later?

By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Jun 28, 2004

We climbed Dreamweaver this Saturday. The route had little ice as this was almost a complete snow climb, but still fun. My friend lost his digital camera near the ridge, so if someone finds it please contact me.

By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jul 5, 2004

My friend Aaron invited me to climb the route July 5, 2004. We got to the route about an hour after sunrise. The snow was a little soft on the easy slope before the colouir narrows and obligates you to drytool up some rock. It must not be getting cold enough at night to freeze layers deeper than a few inches. In any case, there is very little real ice on the climb currently. Some ice exists atop a few of the stepped runs, while there will be snow at the bottom. The route might be better done with one long mountain axe to give you a self snow belay with the shaft plunged as you climb. Granular snowfall peppered us in the early afternoon, which seems to be this month's weather pattern.

By John Kelley
From: Sedona, AZ
Jul 28, 2004

Did the route a about a week and a half ago, about 1/3 of the route has melted out. Top sections still had decent snow & ice. Crampons were useful, just brought one axe. Great route!

By Legs Magillicutty
From: Littleton
Sep 22, 2004

I'd like to climb this within the next 2 weeks. Please post conditions here. I'm wondering if snow/ice has accumulated with this latest batch of weather. Thanks.

By Jeremy Monahan
From: Fort Fun, CO
Oct 3, 2004

Holy Crap!! What an awesome route!! Did it today as my first mountaineering route. Took us 15 hours car to car, which might be slow to some, but it was excellent. The route is covered in snow, sometimes up to knee/thigh height. The snow is good quality and not too avalanche prone yet. Not much ice in, only 1 pitch had some ice, but it was good! Snowed off and on, but didn't accumulate. Descent is tricky, but just look for the 1st of two ledge systems. on the face connecting Meeker and The Loft. This is the one that connects to The Loft. Don't go all the way to the cliffs like we did!

By Jeremy Monahan
From: Fort Fun, CO
Oct 3, 2004

Not much ice yet, just a little on one of the middle pitches, but snowfields are in all the way.

By Bryan Gartland
From: Helena, MT
Oct 4, 2004

Tim Barton and I had a go at Dreamweaver on Saturday; either we missed the window of ideal conditions or folks have been overly enthusiastic in their reports over the last week or so!

We only saw about 30-40' of ice on the entire route, the rest was more of a snow slog with dry tooling at the steep sections. Avy conditions still seemed stable but the snow was thigh-deep in most of the couloir.

Darkstar and the Notch Couloir appeared to be in about the same shape as Dreamweaver but we didn't get great looks at them.

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 9, 2005

Climbed Dreamweaver on Wednesday, 8 June 2005. Snow conditions were great. We had some worries about the avalache conditions but it proved to be negligible.Very little rock fall on the route in very high winds. There had been a slide from the Loft but It was very stable when we descended it. What are called the first and third cruxs were solid AI2 ice the second crux was melted and we climbed the rocks to the right. If you plan on protecting the route bring short screws and rock gear. On the descent the cairns were confusing continue to your left and descend the Loft.

By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Jun 24, 2005

I was on Dreamweaver this past Saturday. The upper pitches have ICE, the lower pitches consist of snow. The Loft was unstable. Started hiking at 2:20 am and returned to the parking lot at noon.

By Hamish Gowans
From: Golden, CO
Sep 15, 2005

Hey AC, If you used a profile, I could have emailed you directly. I was hoping to go check out the high country (maybe Dreamweaver) this weekend since conditions are certainly ripe. You can email me through the site.

By Mike McKinnon
From: Golden, CO
Mar 9, 2006

I am looking to go do this route in April. Anyone been up there recently can provide a conditions report? Snow, ice, talus?
Any comments would be helpful. Thanks!

By RalphE
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 17, 2006

Ascended DW on a blustery tax day, 15 April 2006, and found it to be a snow climb. Light snow fell most of the morning, and so kicked off some fun slab breaks descending the Loft. Had the whole cirque to myself.

By Andy Leach
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 30, 2006

We shot a short video of our climb of Dreamweaver Couloir on May 27, 2006. You can view it here: www.leachfam.com/securearea/1movie.php?movieid=16

By Luis Barandiaran
From: Longmont, CO
Jan 23, 2007

Very nice website, Andy. I enjoyed watching several of your movies. What software did you use to put it together?

By Andy Leach
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jan 24, 2007

Thanks Luis. I just use iMovie which came with my Mac. It's pretty basic, but it does everything I need it to do.

By Jackattack
Jan 15, 2008

I'm thinking about giving this a shot around mid-March. Can anyone give me some ideas on the best gear to take as well as speculation on the route?

By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 25, 2008

Has anyone been up to Dreamweaver lately and know the general conditions?

Thanks!

By John McGuire
May 29, 2008

Anyone been on Dreamweaver recently and have any info on conditions?

By jeffrey heddings
From: denver,CO
Jul 12, 2008

Ascended July 3. Not much ice, too busted most places to get a stick. Might be seeing to much traffic to form up like in past, although fun and not too hard, 5.5.

By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
May 29, 2009

Thanks, Don, for the route conditions, that help reinforce my solo commitment.

By Chad Volk
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 7, 2009

My climbing partner and I each lost an ice axe in an avalanche on the inital snowfield on 10-05-09. One was a BD Rage and one was a BD Viper (old style). If found, please let me know.

By Casey Bernal
From: Arvada, CO
Oct 7, 2009

Chad - Were you the pair mention in the CAIC report that I posted here: Dreamweaver Avalanche?

If so, glad to hear you both were OK. Hope you find your gear, too.

By Francis Kelsey
Dec 29, 2010

Did Dreamweaver/Mt Meeker yesterday 12/28/10. Originally I just went there to see if it would be "in" for a climb this weekend but upon closer inspection saw that it was in prime shape. I had been wondering about this route since I moved to Boulder a year ago and even wondered if it would be possible to ski?
With the conditions I had yesterday, I quickly realized it was now or who knows when. The weather was perfect - fairly cold but barely a breeze and blue skies. The first long slope was easy with perfect styrofoam snow. There wasn't a hint of ice in the first choke. The next slope went just as well with minimal but sufficient snow coverage. Past the Buttress, the next slope was steeper but just as good as the first one and the final mixed section was snow covered as well. After topping out and weighing the options, I decided to "give it a go". I played around on the top slopes, zig zagged down the slabs and gingerly down climbed the final mixed section. Once below this, the first "real" steep section was the crux of the descent. Past the Butress and another snow slope presented no problems followed by the lower mixed section which I down climbed as well. From here is was "all good" and I could let 'em run a bit on the main slope which was firm but just right to sink in the edges.
All in all it was pretty sweet and totally unexpected.
Hopefully the weather and conditions will remain favorable - I have a few others in mind.
Cheers 'n' Happy to New Year to all.

Lower slope.
Lower slope.


Above the buttress.
Above the buttress.


From the bottom.
From the bottom.

By J Antin
From: Denver, CO
Apr 11, 2011
rating: M2-3

Conditions update???

By Summer Time
Jun 5, 2011

We left the TH at 5 am on 06/04/11 and put on crampons around 7:30/8 am to ascend the 600’ of snow to the start of the climb. We spotted one two-person party ahead of us. We mainly dry tooled through the first obstacle - a pile of chunky, semi-vertical rocks - before reaching the bench at the top of the Flying Buttress. Above that bench, we hit the route’s most technical part – a 13’-long narrow chute w/ some good dry tool placements w/ crampon smearing on the left wall; we weren’t roped-up, so my partner built a quick anchor and dropped me a cordellete (for me to have a back-up). The actual 1,500’-route went quickly and easily, with decently firm steps and occasionally punching-through to mid-thigh. (The high was 69 degrees in near-by Allenspark.) Around 11:30 am, we left our packs and begin the traverse (on the left side of the ridge) to Meeker. That’s when the day became challenging for me, as that I really needed to trust my crampons on the rock. Then back to our packs for the long traverse across the sloping, dry, huge slabs from the top of DW towards the Loft Descent. That was challenging for me descending with crampons on the rocks - it wasn't very steep, but there were huge cliffs below. Then we took off our crampons and descended the dry boulder fields. We put them back on when we hit the snow and downclimbed the heavy snow, trying to follow the cairns. Once finally down on the snow (Loft’s apron where we could glissade), we realized our mistake in the Loft Descent: we overshot the standard ramp (that nicely spits you out on the snow) and ended-up on the incorrect ramp below it, which involved an exposed traverse to grassy ledges - we set-up a handline for that. From there, we backed-up some pitons and rapped to the Loft’s apron, barely making it w/ a 50m rope. By then, we were a party of four as that we caught two others. While rapping, a big rock got knocked-off one of the ledges. We were back on Chasm Trail around 5:30 pm and didn’t post-hole too much back to the TH (which we sleepily reached before dark), tromping through a brief section (200’ or so) of full on, thick mud near the TH. This was my first route in the Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirque, and I loved it.

We chose the wrong ramp on the Loft Descent on Dreamweaver.
We chose the wrong ramp on the Loft Descent on Dreamweaver.

By michael voth
Apr 1, 2012

Climbed yesterday on March 31st, 2012. No ice to be found and very little snow hopeful of forming ice. Climbed it in pitches due to slightly overhanging chockstones (easy).

Dry Dreamweaver.
Dry Dreamweaver.