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Devil's Lake

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Devil's Lake Bouldering 
East Bluff 01 - Sandstone Area 
East Bluff 02 - East of the Quarry 
East Bluff 03 - West of the Quarry 
East Bluff 04 - East Rampart 
East Bluff 05 - Potholes Area 
East Bluff 06 - Balanced Rock 
East Bluff 07 - Railroad Tracks 
East Bluff 08 - North End 
Forbidden Rocks 
Ice Age Wall 
Linkups, Contrivances, Oddities and Triflings 
South Bluff 
West Bluff - Cleo Amphitheater 
West Bluff - Great Tower (Mid-bluff) 
West Bluff - Lincoln's Chair 
West Bluff - Misery/Cottage Rocks 
West Bluff - North Woods 
West Bluff - Stettner Rocks 
West Bluff - West Rampart 
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Holy Schist
The name speaks for itself. A long section of difficult trail with little respite until the end. Near Barneveld, Wisconsin
Mound Loop (long)
The long Mound Loop contains some of the most technical singletrack that Wisconsin has to offer. Near Barneveld, Wisconsin
Mound Loop (short)
The short Mound Loop omits Holy Schist and Home Stretch but adds Basalty Bail. Near Barneveld, Wisconsin
Over Lode Loop (short)
This ride features Over Lode and the short Mound Loop for a good mix of intermediate singletrack. Near Barneveld, Wisconsin
Over Lode Loop (long)
Not for the faint of heart or body, this loop will challenge even the more experienced riders. Near Barneveld, Wisconsin
Pleasant View Trail Full Loop
A full loop of Pleasant View Trail System, there and back with the Mulligan Loop and Slice included. Near Middleton, Wisconsin
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Devil's Lake Rock Climbing 

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Looking east from the south shore, October 2007.


Devil's Lake is a state park in Wisconsin that contains some of the best rock climbing in the Midwest. Located in a picturesque setting, these quartzite rock cliffs of upwards of a hundred feet in height attract climbers from all over the country. Over 1600 routes are listed in the most recent guidebook. There is no shortage of climbable rock in the park.

Famous climbers such as Joe and Paul Stettner, John Gill, Jim Erickson, and Eric Zschieschie have left their mark here. The legendary Pete Cleveland may have introduced 5.12 back in the 1960s. Son of Great Chimney, led onsight, may have been the hardest route in the country at the time of Cleveland's first ascent in 1968.

Devil's Lake offers mellow toproping, well protected leads, and some harder "headpoint" style leads. Bouldering is extensive, if a bit spread out. Those who intend to toprope here should remember to bring plenty of sling materials as some of the anchors wind up being a good ways back from the cliff edges. Oddly, some climbs are "occupied" for extended stretches during the day, but climbers are often willing to share the rock here with a friendly request. Remember: lead climbers always have the right of way.

The quartzite rock is beautiful, but it can be slick. Smearing is much less utilized than edging. Climbing here is traditional. There are no bolted routes at the Lake, so sport climbers may be dissatisfied here. Devil's Lake may have more quality moderate climbs (5.5-5.8) than anywhere in the country. There are also many well protected 5.9-5.11a leads. More difficult climbs are usually attempted on toprope and are led if and when they are wired. The harder climbs tend to be technical and the sequences tend to be cryptic. Maybe it's the smooth nature of the rock, but more than one climber has referred to Devil's Lake ratings as stiff.

There is a beautiful lake here with fishing, non-motorized boating, and even diving for the multi-day visitor for non-climbing days.

Dave Groth on "The Good The Bad and the Jacked"

Rock Climbing Photo: Dave Groth on The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked. 1...
Dave Groth on The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked. 1985. Photo: Dave Langhoff.

Andy Hanson on Lost Face Overhangs:

Rock Climbing Photo: Great route. Photo: Peter Beck.
Great route. Photo: Peter Beck.


A great film about the history of the DLFA by Darin Limvere, available for download on Vimeo:



Devil's Lake has great bouldering. From the long established problems at Tombstone Rocks, to the neo-classics at the Reserve, there are many worthwhile areas. See Devil's Lake bouldering for more info on the wealth of problems that the Lake offers.


There are multiple cliffs in the area. These include the East Bluff, the West Bluff, the South Bluff, and the Sandstone Bluff. The greatest number of routes will be found on the East Bluff and West Bluff areas.

The East Rampart, a quarter-mile long cliff band, is the most popular climbing area and contains the highest concentration of climbs at the park. The area contains some of the finest climbs and longer climbs in this area. It tends to also be the most crowded.


Devil's Lake State Park is located NNW of Madison and just S of Baraboo. From the North, you can access it off I-90/I-94 to US 12 and head east following the signs. From the South, you can access it from I-90 to US 12/US 18 which skirts Madison on its southern edge, following this to US 12. From the East, you can access it from I-94 to I-90 S to US 12. From US 12, follow the signs into the park.

A vehicle admission fee is required in the park. You can get a day pass at the self-serve kiosks in most parking lots.


The most comprehensive guidebook for Devil's Lake is by Sven Olof Swartling and can be purchased at several Baraboo area shops and campgrounds. It's also sold at the REI in Brookfield, WI and on Madison's west side. Boulders Climbing Gym in Madison now carries the guidebook as well.

Mike Farris also wrote a guide to Wisconsin and Minnesota which briefly covers DL and gives a few other quality climbing areas (mostly in North/Northwestern WI). That's a Falcon guidebook.

An upcoming DL route guidebook by MP's own Jay Knower should be available in September 2016. Preorder here:


There is nearby accomodations available in Baraboo, just to the North. Camping is available in or near the state park, but it can be quite popular.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.7 miles from here

1,842 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',108],['3 Stars',720],['2 Stars',755],['1 Star',215],['Bomb',9]

Classic Climbing Routes in Devil's Lake

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Devil's Lake:
Big Bud Arete   V2 5+     Boulder   East Bluff North : North Shore
Slope of Dadaism   V3 6A     Boulder   Monolith Area : East of Trail Boulders
Queen's Throne   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, TR   West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : The Cleo Amphitheater
East Comfort Route   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Cleopatra's Needle
Brinton's Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 80'   East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Brinton's Buttress
Coatimundi Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 125'   East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Bill's Buttress
Peter's Project   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Many Pines Buttress
Birch Tree Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Pedestal Buttress
Roger's Roof   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR   East Bluff 07 - Railroad Tr... : 7.3 - Horse Rampart
Upper Diagonal   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR   East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Pedestal Buttress
Congratulations   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 60'   East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Pedestal Buttress
Sometime Crack   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Pedestal Buttress
Cheatah   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 120'   East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Bill's Buttress
Face Value   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13     Trad, TR, 50'   East Bluff 03 - West of the... : Bird-Foot Buttress
Flake Route   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13     Trad, TR   East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Pedestal Buttress
Thoroughfare   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, TR, 50'   East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Two Pines Buttress
D.L.F.A   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 29 pitches, 290'   East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Pedestal Buttress
Son Of Great Chimney   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area
Acid Rock   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Gill's Buttress
Bagatelle   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Pseudo Hawk's Nest
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Devil's Lake

Featured Route For Devil's Lake
Rock Climbing Photo: P.Stachio

P.Stachio V4 6B  WI : Devil's Lake : ... : The Stache Boulder AKA Dog ...
Start on a good right hand crimp and a left hand pinch and move up the prominent pillar. Squeeze your way up and throw for the good jug at the top. Committing last move!...[more]   Browse More Classics in WI

Photos of Devil's Lake Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking west from the south shore, October 2007.
Looking west from the south shore, October 2007.
Rock Climbing Photo: Fall colors at Devils Lake. October '07.
Fall colors at Devils Lake. October '07.
Rock Climbing Photo: Great day , perfect belay. Stew of the HWDAMF's. D...
Great day , perfect belay. Stew of the HWDAMF's. D...
Rock Climbing Photo: Kris Gorny sending of Son of Great Chimney.  Fanta...
Kris Gorny sending of Son of Great Chimney. Fanta...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunrise over the East Bluff.  September 2010.
Sunrise over the East Bluff. September 2010.
Rock Climbing Photo: Morning fog.
Morning fog.
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Jeron Berman.
Photo by Jeron Berman.
Rock Climbing Photo: Devils Lake just after the storm. July '09.
Devils Lake just after the storm. July '09.
Rock Climbing Photo: Full moon over the east bluff, 1/7/11
Full moon over the east bluff, 1/7/11
Rock Climbing Photo: Cranes crossing the road.
Cranes crossing the road.
Rock Climbing Photo: Devils Lake. Fall trees. October '08.
Devils Lake. Fall trees. October '08.
Rock Climbing Photo: Moonrise in the east.  From the boat landing.  Apr...
Moonrise in the east. From the boat landing. Apr...
Rock Climbing Photo: Fall colors at Devils Lake. October '07.
Fall colors at Devils Lake. October '07.
Rock Climbing Photo: The lake and west bluff, October 2007.
The lake and west bluff, October 2007.
Rock Climbing Photo: Panoramic from Prospect Point, West Bluff, Devil's...
Panoramic from Prospect Point, West Bluff, Devil's...
Rock Climbing Photo: Beautiful.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking east from near the top of Porkchop Buttres...
Looking east from near the top of Porkchop Buttres...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pretty nice light diffusion while hiking the trail...
Pretty nice light diffusion while hiking the trail...
Rock Climbing Photo: Someone should write that one day.
Someone should write that one day.
Rock Climbing Photo: Beautiful Sunset, June 2011.
Beautiful Sunset, June 2011.
Rock Climbing Photo: DEVIL's DOORWAY
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Andrew Burr.
Photo by Andrew Burr.
Rock Climbing Photo: Devil's Lake Hardcore 1-16-2010
Devil's Lake Hardcore 1-16-2010
Rock Climbing Photo: Moonrise.

Show All 261 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Devil's Lake Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 1, 2016
By JK1
From: Lakewood, CO
Apr 4, 2006
I am visiting from Colorado in June and was wondering where to get a guidebook for Devil's Lake area. Thanks
By Rich T
Apr 5, 2006

The best guidebook for Devil's Lake is by Sven Olof Swartling and can be purchased at several Baraboo area shops and campgrounds. It's also sold at the REI in Brookfield, WI and on Madison's west side. It can also be found at Mike Farris also wrote a guide to Wisconsin and Minnesota which briefly covers DL and gives a few other quality climbing areas (mostly in North/Northwestern WI). That's a Falcon guidebook.

Happy Climbing!
By Robert Keller
Aug 26, 2006
Any climbing in Adam's County? Any info on Ship Rock? Bolts on top? Large worthless dogs like my girlfriend's Newf allowed?
By Burt Lindquist
From: Madison, WI
Aug 28, 2006
To Robert:

Shiprock is on highway 21 and is nothing more then a wayside/picnic area so having a large dog along(as long as he stays near you) will not be an issue in the least little bit. I am sure many motorists stop and use the place to water and walk a dog.

There are some top anchors to be found at the very center of the main summit block that are great for rapping off with (the rope pull is just fine). You can use this rap anchor to TR a few routes in close proximity to the anchor on both sides of the formation but other routes not close by will require lots of sling to adequately anchor (at least for a normal sling shot type of TR anchor).

There are a couple of bolted routes on the formation but mostly just Trad routes.

Not a lot of options for climbing in Adams county if you are talking about free access to climbing on public lands... There is a ton of rock (a lot of it crappy SS with small areas of OK rock in between - but also a couple of choice areas as well) that is on private land and good luck getting permission from the sorts that live up in the area.....
By Paul Huebner
From: Portage, WI
Jul 30, 2007
I've never climbed in a gym. I'm not against them, it's just not convenient for me to drive to Madison from Portage when I can go to the Lake. But lately what on earth is going on in the climbing community? Lake has been way too crowded with yahoos on weekends ever since the late 80s, but on a recent Fri. afternoon top-ropers were knocking off huge rocks above me and never said a word. I was on belay for starting Jungle Jim and my partner was leading it. The buddy of the guy, who was dislodging everything on his way to the base of a climb, was setting up their top-rope anchor and said, not shouted, "Coming down" before throwing the rope. Where do these people learn to climb? Whatever happened to learning basic climbing commands and yelling, "Rock!" when you dislodge something that could take somebody's head off. No wonder accidents are occurring more frequently at the Lake. Yes, I know that probably 99% of the people hurt are scrambling hikers, etc., but the top-rope anchors and behavior I've seen over the past few years at the Lake scare the hell out of me.
By Thomas Ferguson
Aug 19, 2008
This would be a great place to climb if it was not so crowded. Everyone and their brother seem like they are out at Devils Lake climbing. I would say that you shouldn't waste your time going, but then the other fun spots to climb would get crowded and ruin my climbing. But just thought I would put it out there for people to know. I had some friends from out of state go there and did not warn them about the crowds. They left totally pissed off, calling it an amusement park for climbing.

(Also beware of falling rocks! You have idiots causing rock or rocks to fall and never yell to warn anyone. Another reason I don't climb there anymore!)
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Aug 20, 2008
I would say there are plenty of tucked away places to get away from the crowds at DL. I was out last Saturday and Sunday, and probably only saw a half dozen other climbers.

That said a sunny summer weekend at the East Rampart is a veritable zoo.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Aug 21, 2008
LOL. Thomas, your comment is hilarious. You must have been up on the East Rampart. That place is a zoo on the weekends. There are so many places at the lake that no one goes to and you can be alone all day. Looks like you need to do some more research before you head up to DL again. Check out the Sandstone area and the west bluff. Also, the falling rocks are due to stupid hikers throwing them off the cliff-side not thinking that anyone is down there. I yell up at them all the time "Hey there are people down here, stop throwing rocks" then if they don't stop, I say "Stop throwing fuckin rocks!!! There are people down here you idiots!!!" That usually stops them right away.
By Chris treggE
From: Madison, WI
Sep 17, 2008
This is kind of a cool reference about the geology of Devil's Lake

Also some cool aerial pics of the geology towards the bottom of this page.
By Kris Gorny
May 21, 2009
An interesting quote regarding climbing ethics at Devils Lake. Here's the exact paragraph (emphases by the authors):

"Remember that all the climbs except a very few have been lead...and that top-roping is not considered the legitimate form of climbing at the Lake. The easy access by trail to the top of the bluffs and short climbs is an excuse for practice, but not for competence"

"Climbers and Hikers Guide to Devils Lake" by David Smith and Roger Zimmerman, Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers, 1970.
By Doug Hemken
May 21, 2009
I think you mean "style" (or lack of style), not "ethics."

I think it just goes to show you that the people committed to lead climbing at the Lake have always been a small minority (40 years!) ... and thank you so much, Kris, for generating new/renewed enthusiasm for leading around here.
By Kris Gorny
May 21, 2009
Doug, I stand corrected :) Thanks for the last remark although we were inspired by conversations with Dave Groth, ascents of Jason Huston, and videos of Dave Macleod. So the credit goes to these guys.
By Tradoholic
Jun 14, 2009
A climber (A real one) decked today on Birch Tree, possible spinal injury :(
Any info on what happened? I heard a piece blew. How was the response time? Vince said his partner had to run down the trail for help. Is there an E Phone up there like on the West Bluff?
By Peter Arndt
Jun 15, 2009
Accident/Fall as reported by "Baraboo News Republic":
By SteveSchultz
Jun 15, 2009
Really hope they are alright. There is an emergency phone over above Balanced Rock, for reference.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Jun 15, 2009
Check this out for a little more info on the accident.
By Tradoholic
Jun 15, 2009
Hmmm..."The man...was climbing in an area not designated for that activity."
That's right boys, they wash their hands clean of us, and they should! The LAST thing we want is bureaucratic control. Keep that in mind.
By SteveSchultz
Jun 15, 2009
The reason they said that is because no part of devils lake is "designated" for climbing. The park doesn't actively recognize it as an activity.

I was a little caught off guard at first by the comment but then I remembered having a conversation with a ranger about it. Funny.
By Doug Hemken
Jun 15, 2009
Twenty feet? Must have been a lead fall? Not a good place to hit the ground ....

The media (and everyone, really) often has a problem hearing "not a designated-use area" (note the hyphen). The WDNR manages areas that have designated uses, like trails and campgrounds, and also areas that have no designated use. The distinction if VERY important, because under State liability law, the WDNR must maintain areas which have designated uses so that they are safe for those uses. They have to clear brush off the trails; they have to remove dead limbs from the trees hanging over the campsites. All of the cliffs are areas that have no designated use, so the WDNR does not need to make them safe. In DNR-speak, these are "non-designated-use areas," which to the untrained ear sounds like someplace you are not supposed to be. Just like hunting areas (also generally "non-designated-use" areas), you are welcome to go there, but at your own risk.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Aug 17, 2009
I was at Doorway Rocks on Saturday with Paul Campbell and Ed Wright. We heard the biggest rockfall I have ever heard at the lake. It sounded like it came from somewhere near the South Bluff. It was like the loudest thunder when it started, then you could hear the avalanche of rock it must have created as it tumbled down the talus. Pretty nerve racking to hear that at the lake. Did anyone else hear it?
By Peter Arndt
Aug 17, 2009
Reagarding the rock slide you heard. I recall years ago my geology prof. saying how rare it was that people have witnessed significant "natural" rock slides or rock avalanches at Devils Lake.
He cited the angle of repose of the talus slopes and how tight the quartzite blocks are.
So if indeed a rock slide occured it was an exceptional event. I will be curious to hear more about this.
By Garrett Soper
From: Duluth, Minnesota
Aug 17, 2009
Yeah, I too heard that rockfall. We weren't even sure what it was, but it was a pretty terrifying noise.
By SteveSchultz
Aug 18, 2009
We've been bouldering up on the west bluff a couple times this year and have heard it. As far as I can tell it's just people dumping fresh gravel/stones for the cottages. Each time we've come down there have been new rock driveways in. The stuff is about baseball sized so it can make a pretty big noise.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Aug 18, 2009
Steve, I too have heard smaller sounds like that and doubted they were rockfall, and probably the gravel dumping as you say. I don't think this was the dumping of gravel. It sounded like a bomb went off and then rock tumbling/rumbling down the talus. The noise came from the South, or around the corner of the east, but not the West.
By Garrett Soper
From: Duluth, Minnesota
Aug 18, 2009
I have to agree with John. I don't think the noise I heard was the smaller rock fall. I heard it from the south too, and I agree that it sounded like a bomb went off. It was nothing like anything I've ever heard before.
By Tradoholic
Aug 18, 2009
HAHA! Super funny guys! I know what you're talking about now. I encourage you to Google "Badger Ammunition Plant" for beta on those bomb sounds.
By Garrett Soper
From: Duluth, Minnesota
Aug 20, 2009
Ha, oh thats hilarious. That makes sense.
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Aug 25, 2009
I think that the Badger Ammunition Plant has been out of commission since the Cold War.
By Tradoholic
Aug 25, 2009
This is true Jay, but they are in the process of dismantling the whole thing along with destroying decaying bombs and structures. Hence, our "rock fall".
Can anyone confirm my claims? I've heard these sounds for many years and from my research I figured it was coming from Badger.
By Chris treggE
From: Madison, WI
Aug 25, 2009
We were at Balanced Rock on Sunday and heard 2 loud sounds that were more like explosives than anything, but very distant. I grew up going to a lake place near Fort Ripley in MN and it sounded like similar munitions. According to Wikipedia, which clearly is the current world knowledge base and exceedingly accurate, it's probable that it came from there.
By Burt Lindquist
From: Madison, WI
Jul 6, 2010

A few rescues made in the park this busy weekend past. The number of casual users (swimmers/hikers/fishers/picnickers) far out weighed the number of climbers in the park this past weekend from what I saw. Not unusual by any means but helps explain the mis-haps in the boulderfields....
By Tradoholic
Sep 20, 2010
If you can do all of the following routes (Just on TR) you can then claim Alex A is your bitch. Start your engines!

Lead them and I will be your bitch, sponge-bath included ;)

"Ice, Rubberman, Shaking Hands With The Chimp, The Zipper, Dyslexia, Zschiesche Roof, Modern Art, and Steaksauce, Assume the Position, AAA, Between the cheeks, Phlogiston, Mental Block, and a few odd ball 5.3's 5.4's"
By Alex A
Dec 29, 2010
What Nick is eluding too, these are the 16 routes that have I have not climbed of the 1600 routes, my to do list, not going to Happen,
I think I'm safe from bitch duty, for awhile, a few of the routes have only 1 ascent, plus need to come to Colorado, to Collect,
good luck on doing them all, you need it,
By Tradoholic
Jan 1, 2011
Just doing the ones Alex hasn't done would be quite the accomplishment, never mind the other 1584 routes! I might be able to close in if I stay in WI ;)
By Tradoholic
Feb 13, 2011
Check out the March 2011 issue of Climbing Magazine for "Lake Effect" by local Jay Knower!
By Tradoholic
May 13, 2011
Another epic journey took me by those bluffs we all see from 113 near Merry Mac's (choss), around the south side of the bluff (choked by thorn bushes), past the end of Halweg Rd (hidden talus field with no big enough boulders), past Burma Rd and through the gorge there, then north through the woods (nuthin'), back to Ski Hi Rd, and straight through the woods to the Fire Road Boulder (some un-done or forgotten lines), up the east bluff (boulders straight back from Chicago about 100 yards), down the Ice Age Trail, though the woods across the sandstone areas (nothing up top, some stuff around New Standstone), and back to the Jeep at the trail head. This means I'm 99% sure there is no climbable rock not posted currently on MP.

But who knows, I didn't see it all...Happy Hunting!
By Juggler
May 31, 2011
To All Chicago Area Climbers:

I am looking for partners to go to WI climbing and other locations(Jackson Falls, DL, The Red, Grand Dads, etc) with.

I have an Airplane and can fly us there. Please send me a PM if you want more details and the cost of sharing the flight expenses. Hope to meet a few of you soon. I can fit up to 4 climbers with me in the Cherokee 6(with room for gear). I also have lodging available in a log cabin in the area :)
By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 8, 2012
Well I for one would love to see a well done guide for the area. Especially one with a good history section. The older I get, the more I wish I had time to collect all the old stories I heard at the crags and campfires in my formative years in Wisconsin. Before the fuckness. Hell, I've already forgotton most them, and Groth's are some of the best I have ever heard. Anyway, kudos for even thinking about taking on such a challenge, but it seems like you guys have quite a pool of talent to pull from. I'm sure it would be a labor of love, but that's one the best kinds. Would be psyched to help in anyway.
By Eero46
Feb 22, 2012
What is a good guide book that covers top roping, but more importantly bouldering throughout the whole state of Wisconsin?

I am really interested in the areas Devil's Lake, Governors State Park, Westby, and the central sandstone boulders.
By Josh Olson
From: Durango, CO
Feb 22, 2012
Eoro46, there isn't really a guide for bouldering, the best guidebook for Devil's Lake is Swartling's Guide to Devil's Lake. It is in its third printing now, I personally like the second edition better if you can find it.

Eric Z. did a bouldering guide to Devil's Lake that is alright, there is a link to some copiedish topos on the Devil's Lake bouldering page.
There is no guidebook for the rest of Wisconsin, unless you count the Falcon guide Rock Climbing Minnesota and Wisconsin, but that book is pretty brief for my tastes.

I've never heard of a GDSP guidebook, been there a couple times and haven't really felt a need for anything more than the topos in the areas uploaded by Chris treggE. It would be nice to have one, but I haven't heard of one.

Westby and Central Sandstone are pretty good areas to just play around and find stuff. I've never run into a party there, I would be amazed if there was a guidebook. Print out mountain project and go apeshit. Hillbilly Hollow also has some interesting stuff to boulder, but its not on here. Hit me up for more beta on that area.
By Chris treggE
From: Madison, WI
Jun 28, 2012
Hey DL climbers! Darin Limvere has now completed an awesome film about the history of the DLFA. The trailer is linked below. The entire film is available for download for a paltry sum of $7. Get on it!
By Burt Lindquist
From: Madison, WI
Aug 12, 2013
Great and interesting article\interview featuring JJ Schlick - one of Wisconsin's own living and climbing very actively in Arizona...

Posted by Joel Unema originally.
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Sep 4, 2015
Thanks to whoever took care of my "editing" request. Greatly appreciate the striving for historical accuracy. Peace Steve S.
By Chris treggE
From: Madison, WI
Sep 4, 2015
Sure thing Steve. I watch the comments. If there are more complicated things please feel free to email.
By Burt Lindquist
From: Madison, WI
Sep 8, 2015
I added well known Colorado climber Jim Erickson to the list of notables who had a hand in early contributions to Devil's Lake. There are many routes free climbed first by Jim Erickson at Devil's Lake back in the 70's. Plus..... Jim Erickson sights Devil's Lake as one of the first places he utilized his early and innovative version of the "quick draw".
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Sep 8, 2015
Burt, thanks for adding Jim Erickson to the list. He was someone we looked up to. Not so much for his ascents at the Lake ,but as some one who took their DL skills and applied them to Eldo and Yosemite. First free Ascent of the Naked Edge with Duncan Ferguson and first free ascent of Regular NW face of Half Dome with Art Higbee He is still quite the character and still climbs.....although he will deny it ifna ya quiz him. Peace Steve S.
By Benjamin Smith 1
From: Los Angeles CA
Apr 13, 2016
Looking for someone to show me the area and climb with this summer!?

Climbing around 5.10 range.
By Michael Dom
Jun 8, 2016
I just got into Devil's lake and I am looking for a partner.
By Burt Lindquist
From: Madison, WI
Jun 8, 2016

I have friends that should be up at Balanced Rock Wall and then over to Horse Rampart this afternoon....

Their names are Erol and Terry.... seek em out if you don't find any other partners today..... say hello and introduce yourself.... they are most friendly...
By JohnEricson
Jun 28, 2016
Are there any good places to camp nearby that aren't $25 a night? That's ridiculously expensive from where I come from (TN).

On a related note, I'd pay someone who lives in the area $10 (or some hometown Jack Daniels) just to camp in their yard.
By Tradoholic
Jun 29, 2016
John. Contact Wildside store in Baraboo, there's a cheap "climbers" camp ground on Hwy 12 nearby, I can't recall the name.
By Robbie Ahmann
Aug 7, 2016
Hey Wisco climbers,

I'm looking to either do some bouldering or rope climbing between August 10th through 29th. I'm a rock climbing instructor out in Oregon and coming home for a month to visit some family. Got little gear so definitely need a partner to make this happen. Message if you got some time and want to get after it!

By Burt Lindquist
From: Madison, WI
Sep 19, 2016
Found a rope bag left up at East Bluff late in the day Sat. Sept 17th. If you tell me the color and make of the item ... i.e. if it yours LMK and I will make arrangements to get it returned.
By Christopher Smaling
From: Bloomington, IN
Sep 30, 2016
Is there much of a "scene" at devils lake? I was thinking about coming up solo for a week around thanksgiving, and I've been warned it's difficult to find solid partners.
By Joel Allen
From: La Crosse
Sep 30, 2016
Christopher, there is quite the "scene" at devils lake. I've found it quite easy to find partners and probably especially easy if you're there to boulder.
By Tradoholic
Oct 1, 2016
Chris, "Winsonsinites" are a wiley bunch and actively shun outsiders and especially anyone from Colorado. I would say all the climbers are "solid" but only in the sense that they can take a punch and hold their liquor. Best to go alone, armed with free beer, and just start tieing into other parties top ropes or walking up and flashing all the low-ball boulder problems over their pads. Enjoy!

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