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Devil's Lake

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Devil's Lake Bouldering 
East Bluff - East of the Quarry 
East Bluff - East Rampart 
East Bluff - Far West End 
East Bluff - North End 
East Bluff - Potholes Area 
East Bluff - Railroad Tracks 
East Bluff - Sandstone Area 
East Bluff - West of the Quarry 
Ice Age Wall 
Linkups, Contrivances, Oddities and Triflings 
South Bluff 
West Bluff - Cleo Amphitheater 
West Bluff - Great Tower (Mid-bluff) 
West Bluff - Lincoln's Chair 
West Bluff - Misery/Cottage Rocks 
West Bluff - North Woods 
West Bluff - Stettner Rocks 
West Bluff - West Rampart 
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Holy Schist
The name speaks for itself. A long section of difficult trail with little respite until the end. Near Blue Mounds village, Wisconsin
Mound Loop (short)
The short Mound Loop omits Holy Schist and Home Stretch but adds Basalty Bail. Near Blue Mounds village, Wisconsin
Over Lode Loop (long)
Not for the faint of heart or body, this loop will challenge even the more experienced riders. Near Barneveld, Wisconsin
Mound Loop (long)
The long Mound Loop contains some of the most technical singletrack that Wisconsin has to offer. Near Blue Mounds village, Wisconsin
Over Lode Loop (short)
This ride features Over Lode and the short Mound Loop for a good mix of intermediate singletrack. Near Blue Mounds village, Wisconsin
Intermediate Loop
Fun singletrack cross-country style riding in Fitchburg, with optional downhill-style side trails. Near Verona, Wisconsin
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Devil's Lake  


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Location: 43.4135, -89.7164 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, Chris treggE, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
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Kris Gorny sending of Son of Great Chimney. Fanta...

Description 

Devil's Lake is a state park in Wisconsin that contains some of the best rock climbing in the Midwest. Located in a picturesque setting, these quartzite rock cliffs of upwards of a hundred feet in height attract climbers from all over the country. Over 1600 routes are listed in the most recent guidebook. There is no shortage of climbable rock in the park.

Famous climbers such as Joe and Paul Stettner, John Gill, Lynn Hill, John Sherman, and Eric Zschieschie have left their mark here. The legendary Pete Cleveland may have introduced 5.12 back in the 1960s. Son of Great Chimney, led onsight, may have been the hardest route in the country at the time of Cleveland's first ascent in 1968.

Devil's Lake offers mellow toproping, well protected leads, and some harder "headpoint" style leads. Bouldering is extensive, if a bit spread out. Those who intend to toprope here should remember to bring plenty of sling materials as some of the anchors wind up being a good ways back from the cliff edges. Oddly, some climbs are "occupied" for extended stretches during the day, but climbers are often willing to share the rock here with a friendly request. Remember: lead climbers always have the right of way.

The quartzite rock is beautiful, but it can be slick. Smearing is much less utilized than edging. Climbing here is traditional. There are no bolted routes at the Lake, so sport climbers may be dissatisfied here. Devil's Lake may have more quality moderate climbs (5.5-5.8) than anywhere in the country. There are also many well protected 5.9-5.11a leads. More difficult climbs are usually attempted on toprope and are led if and when they are wired. The harder climbs tend to be technical and the sequences tend to be cryptic. Maybe it's the smooth nature of the rock, but more than one climber has referred to Devil's Lake ratings as stiff.

There is a beautiful lake here with fishing, non-motorized boating, and even diving for the multi-day visitor for non-climbing days.


Dave Groth on "The Good The Bad and the Jacked"

Dave Groth on The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked. 1...
Dave Groth on The Good, the Bad, and the Jacked. 1985. Photo: Dave Langhoff.



Andy Hanson on Lost Face Overhangs:

Great route. Photo: Peter Beck.
Great route. Photo: Peter Beck.


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A great film about the history of the DLFA by Darin Limvere, available for download on Vimeo:

vimeo.com/ondemand/24156/65395...

--------------------------------------------------------------------

Bouldering 

Devil's Lake has great bouldering. From the long established problems at Tombstone Rocks, to the neo-classics at the Reserve, there are many worthwhile areas. See Devil's Lake bouldering for more info on the wealth of problems that the Lake offers.

Organization 

There are multiple cliffs in the area. These include the East Bluff, the West Bluff, the South Bluff, and the Sandstone Bluff. The greatest number of routes will be found on the East Bluff and West Bluff areas.

The East Rampart, a quarter-mile long cliff band, is the most popular climbing area and contains the highest concentration of climbs at the park. The area contains some of the finest climbs and longer climbs in this area. It tends to also be the most crowded.

Location/Directions 

Devil's Lake State Park is located NNW of Madison and just S of Baraboo. From the North, you can access it off I-90/I-94 to US 12 and head east following the signs. From the South, you can access it from I-90 to US 12/US 18 which skirts Madison on its southern edge, following this to US 12. From the East, you can access it from I-94 to I-90 S to US 12. From US 12, follow the signs into the park.

Guidebooks 

The best guidebook for Devil's Lake is by Sven Olof Swartling and can be purchased at several Baraboo area shops and campgrounds. It's also sold at the REI in Brookfield, WI and on Madison's west side. Boulders Climbing Gym in Madison now carries the guidebook as well.

Mike Farris also wrote a guide to Wisconsin and Minnesota which briefly covers DL and gives a few other quality climbing areas (mostly in North/Northwestern WI). That's a Falcon guidebook.

Accomodations 

There is nearby accomodations available in Baraboo, just to the North. Camping is available in or near the state park, but it can be quite popular.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.7 miles from here

1,667 Total Routes

['4 Stars',98],['3 Stars',651],['2 Stars',680],['1 Star',198],['Bomb',7]
['<=5.6',279],['5.7',162],['5.8',140],['5.9',84],['5.10',110],['5.11',73],['5.12',63],['5.13',13],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',105],['V2-3',306],['V4-5',141],['V6-7',81],['V8-9',86],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',35],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Devil's Lake:
Slope of Dadaism   V3 6A     Boulder   Monolith Area : East of Trail Boulders
Purple Gold   V9- 7C     Boulder   Devil's Lake Bouldering : Burma Road Bouldering
Queen's Throne   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, TR   West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : The Cleo Amphitheater
East Comfort Route   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Cleopatra's Needle
Brinton's Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 80'   East Bluff - East Rampart : Brinton's Buttress
Lost Face   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR   Prospect Point Rampart : Lost Face Area
Coatimundi Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 125'   East Bluff - East Rampart : Bill's Buttress
Peter's Project   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress
Roger's Roof   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR   East Bluff - Railroad Track... : Horse Rampart
Birch Tree Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress
Upper Diagonal   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR   East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress
Sometime Crack   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress
Congratulations   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR   East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress
Cheatah   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 120'   East Bluff - East Rampart : Bill's Buttress
Flake Route   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13     Trad, TR   East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress
Thoroughfare   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, TR, 50'   East Bluff - East Rampart : Two Pines Buttress
D.L.F.A   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 29 pitches, 290'   East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress
Son Of Great Chimney   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Prospect Point Rampart : Great Chimney Area
Acid Rock   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   East Bluff - East Rampart : Gill's Buttress
Bagatelle   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   East Bluff - East Rampart : Pseudo Hawk's Nest
Browse More Classics in Devil's Lake

Featured Route For Devil's Lake
Me and my nemisis, starting yet another doomed att...

Beginners Demise 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Pseudo Hawk's Nest
Around the left corner from Bagatelle, Beginner's Demise ascends the picturesque arete. Funky corner palming makes this route stand out among Devil's Lake crimp-fests. Beginner's Demise may be a good training route for the same kind of moves on Gill's Nose. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in WI

Photos of Devil's Lake Slideshow Add Photo
Great day , perfect belay. Stew of the HWDAMF's. D...
Great day , perfect belay. Stew of the HWDAMF's. D...
Fall colors at Devils Lake. October '07.
Fall colors at Devils Lake. October '07.
Sunrise over the East Bluff.  September 2010.
Sunrise over the East Bluff. September 2010.
Morning fog.
Morning fog.
Photo by Jeron Berman.
Photo by Jeron Berman.
Devils Lake just after the storm. July '09.
Devils Lake just after the storm. July '09.
Full moon over the east bluff, 1/7/11
Full moon over the east bluff, 1/7/11
Cranes crossing the road.
Cranes crossing the road.
Devils Lake. Fall trees. October '08.
Devils Lake. Fall trees. October '08.
Fall colors at Devils Lake. October '07.
Fall colors at Devils Lake. October '07.
Looking west from the south shore, October 2007.
Looking west from the south shore, October 2007.
Panoramic from Prospect Point, West Bluff, Devil's...
Panoramic from Prospect Point, West Bluff, Devil's...
Looking east from the south shore, October 2007.
Looking east from the south shore, October 2007.
Moonrise in the east.  From the boat landing.  Apr...
Moonrise in the east. From the boat landing. Apr...
Someone should write that one day.
Someone should write that one day.
The lake and west bluff, October 2007.
The lake and west bluff, October 2007.
Moonrise.
Moonrise.
Looking east from near the top of Porkchop Buttres...
Looking east from near the top of Porkchop Buttres...
DEVIL's DOORWAY
DEVIL's DOORWAY
Pretty nice light diffusion while hiking the trail...
Pretty nice light diffusion while hiking the trail...
I think I can catch these minnows with this cup Da...
I think I can catch these minnows with this cup Da...
Cool cloud formation over the park.  Photo taken 5...
Cool cloud formation over the park. Photo taken 5...
I've always wanted to catch this tree in good ligh...
I've always wanted to catch this tree in good ligh...
Got the Snake Eye over in the boulder field near M...
Got the Snake Eye over in the boulder field near M...

Show All 249 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Devil's Lake Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 12, 2013
By JK1
From: Lakewood, CO
Apr 4, 2006
I am visiting from Colorado in June and was wondering where to get a guidebook for Devil's Lake area. Thanks
By Rich T
Apr 5, 2006
Jeff,

The best guidebook for Devil's Lake is by Sven Olof Swartling and can be purchased at several Baraboo area shops and campgrounds. It's also sold at the REI in Brookfield, WI and on Madison's west side. It can also be found at amazon.com. Mike Farris also wrote a guide to Wisconsin and Minnesota which briefly covers DL and gives a few other quality climbing areas (mostly in North/Northwestern WI). That's a Falcon guidebook.

Happy Climbing!
By Robert Keller
Aug 26, 2006
Any climbing in Adam's County? Any info on Ship Rock? Bolts on top? Large worthless dogs like my girlfriend's Newf allowed?
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 28, 2006
To Robert:

Shiprock is on highway 21 and is nothing more then a wayside/picnic area so having a large dog along(as long as he stays near you) will not be an issue in the least little bit. I am sure many motorists stop and use the place to water and walk a dog.

There are some top anchors to be found at the very center of the main summit block that are great for rapping off with (the rope pull is just fine). You can use this rap anchor to TR a few routes in close proximity to the anchor on both sides of the formation but other routes not close by will require lots of sling to adequately anchor (at least for a normal sling shot type of TR anchor).

There are a couple of bolted routes on the formation but mostly just Trad routes.

Not a lot of options for climbing in Adams county if you are talking about free access to climbing on public lands... There is a ton of rock (a lot of it crappy SS with small areas of OK rock in between - but also a couple of choice areas as well) that is on private land and good luck getting permission from the sorts that live up in the area.....
By Paul Huebner
From: Portage, WI
Jul 30, 2007
I've never climbed in a gym. I'm not against them, it's just not convenient for me to drive to Madison from Portage when I can go to the Lake. But lately what on earth is going on in the climbing community? Lake has been way too crowded with yahoos on weekends ever since the late 80s, but on a recent Fri. afternoon top-ropers were knocking off huge rocks above me and never said a word. I was on belay for starting Jungle Jim and my partner was leading it. The buddy of the guy, who was dislodging everything on his way to the base of a climb, was setting up their top-rope anchor and said, not shouted, "Coming down" before throwing the rope. Where do these people learn to climb? Whatever happened to learning basic climbing commands and yelling, "Rock!" when you dislodge something that could take somebody's head off. No wonder accidents are occurring more frequently at the Lake. Yes, I know that probably 99% of the people hurt are scrambling hikers, etc., but the top-rope anchors and behavior I've seen over the past few years at the Lake scare the hell out of me.
By Thomas Ferguson
Aug 19, 2008
This would be a great place to climb if it was not so crowded. Everyone and their brother seem like they are out at Devils Lake climbing. I would say that you shouldn't waste your time going, but then the other fun spots to climb would get crowded and ruin my climbing. But just thought I would put it out there for people to know. I had some friends from out of state go there and did not warn them about the crowds. They left totally pissed off, calling it an amusement park for climbing.

(Also beware of falling rocks! You have idiots causing rock or rocks to fall and never yell to warn anyone. Another reason I don't climb there anymore!)
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Aug 20, 2008
I would say there are plenty of tucked away places to get away from the crowds at DL. I was out last Saturday and Sunday, and probably only saw a half dozen other climbers.

That said a sunny summer weekend at the East Rampart is a veritable zoo.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Aug 21, 2008
LOL. Thomas, your comment is hilarious. You must have been up on the East Rampart. That place is a zoo on the weekends. There are so many places at the lake that no one goes to and you can be alone all day. Looks like you need to do some more research before you head up to DL again. Check out the Sandstone area and the west bluff. Also, the falling rocks are due to stupid hikers throwing them off the cliff-side not thinking that anyone is down there. I yell up at them all the time "Hey there are people down here, stop throwing rocks" then if they don't stop, I say "Stop throwing fuckin rocks!!! There are people down here you idiots!!!" That usually stops them right away.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 17, 2008
This is kind of a cool reference about the geology of Devil's Lake

Also some cool aerial pics of the geology towards the bottom of this page.
By Kris Gorny
Administrator
May 21, 2009
An interesting quote regarding climbing ethics at Devils Lake. Here's the exact paragraph (emphases by the authors):

"Remember that all the climbs except a very few have been lead...and that top-roping is not considered the legitimate form of climbing at the Lake. The easy access by trail to the top of the bluffs and short climbs is an excuse for practice, but not for competence"

"Climbers and Hikers Guide to Devils Lake" by David Smith and Roger Zimmerman, Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers, 1970.
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
May 21, 2009
I think you mean "style" (or lack of style), not "ethics."

I think it just goes to show you that the people committed to lead climbing at the Lake have always been a small minority (40 years!) ... and thank you so much, Kris, for generating new/renewed enthusiasm for leading around here.
By Kris Gorny
Administrator
May 21, 2009
Doug, I stand corrected :) Thanks for the last remark although we were inspired by conversations with Dave Groth, ascents of Jason Huston, and videos of Dave Macleod. So the credit goes to these guys.
By Tradoholic
Jun 14, 2009
A climber (A real one) decked today on Birch Tree, possible spinal injury :(
Any info on what happened? I heard a piece blew. How was the response time? Vince said his partner had to run down the trail for help. Is there an E Phone up there like on the West Bluff?
By Peter Arndt
Jun 15, 2009
Accident/Fall as reported by "Baraboo News Republic":

wiscnews.com/bnr/news/454871
By SteveSchultz
Jun 15, 2009
Really hope they are alright. There is an emergency phone over above Balanced Rock, for reference.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Jun 15, 2009
Check this out for a little more info on the accident.
wiscnews.com/bnr/news/454871
By Tradoholic
Jun 15, 2009
Hmmm..."The man...was climbing in an area not designated for that activity."
That's right boys, they wash their hands clean of us, and they should! The LAST thing we want is bureaucratic control. Keep that in mind.
By SteveSchultz
Jun 15, 2009
The reason they said that is because no part of devils lake is "designated" for climbing. The park doesn't actively recognize it as an activity.

I was a little caught off guard at first by the comment but then I remembered having a conversation with a ranger about it. Funny.
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Jun 15, 2009
Twenty feet? Must have been a lead fall? Not a good place to hit the ground ....

The media (and everyone, really) often has a problem hearing "not a designated-use area" (note the hyphen). The WDNR manages areas that have designated uses, like trails and campgrounds, and also areas that have no designated use. The distinction if VERY important, because under State liability law, the WDNR must maintain areas which have designated uses so that they are safe for those uses. They have to clear brush off the trails; they have to remove dead limbs from the trees hanging over the campsites. All of the cliffs are areas that have no designated use, so the WDNR does not need to make them safe. In DNR-speak, these are "non-designated-use areas," which to the untrained ear sounds like someplace you are not supposed to be. Just like hunting areas (also generally "non-designated-use" areas), you are welcome to go there, but at your own risk.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Aug 17, 2009
I was at Doorway Rocks on Saturday with Paul Campbell and Ed Wright. We heard the biggest rockfall I have ever heard at the lake. It sounded like it came from somewhere near the South Bluff. It was like the loudest thunder when it started, then you could hear the avalanche of rock it must have created as it tumbled down the talus. Pretty nerve racking to hear that at the lake. Did anyone else hear it?
By Peter Arndt
Aug 17, 2009
John:
Reagarding the rock slide you heard. I recall years ago my geology prof. saying how rare it was that people have witnessed significant "natural" rock slides or rock avalanches at Devils Lake.
He cited the angle of repose of the talus slopes and how tight the quartzite blocks are.
So if indeed a rock slide occured it was an exceptional event. I will be curious to hear more about this.
By Garrett Soper
From: Duluth, Minnesota
Aug 17, 2009
Yeah, I too heard that rockfall. We weren't even sure what it was, but it was a pretty terrifying noise.
By SteveSchultz
Aug 18, 2009
We've been bouldering up on the west bluff a couple times this year and have heard it. As far as I can tell it's just people dumping fresh gravel/stones for the cottages. Each time we've come down there have been new rock driveways in. The stuff is about baseball sized so it can make a pretty big noise.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Aug 18, 2009
Steve, I too have heard smaller sounds like that and doubted they were rockfall, and probably the gravel dumping as you say. I don't think this was the dumping of gravel. It sounded like a bomb went off and then rock tumbling/rumbling down the talus. The noise came from the South, or around the corner of the east, but not the West.
By Garrett Soper
From: Duluth, Minnesota
Aug 18, 2009
I have to agree with John. I don't think the noise I heard was the smaller rock fall. I heard it from the south too, and I agree that it sounded like a bomb went off. It was nothing like anything I've ever heard before.
By Tradoholic
Aug 18, 2009
HAHA! Super funny guys! I know what you're talking about now. I encourage you to Google "Badger Ammunition Plant" for beta on those bomb sounds.
Classic!
By Garrett Soper
From: Duluth, Minnesota
Aug 20, 2009
Ha, oh thats hilarious. That makes sense.
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Aug 25, 2009
I think that the Badger Ammunition Plant has been out of commission since the Cold War.
By Tradoholic
Aug 25, 2009
This is true Jay, but they are in the process of dismantling the whole thing along with destroying decaying bombs and structures. Hence, our "rock fall".
Can anyone confirm my claims? I've heard these sounds for many years and from my research I figured it was coming from Badger.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 25, 2009
We were at Balanced Rock on Sunday and heard 2 loud sounds that were more like explosives than anything, but very distant. I grew up going to a lake place near Fort Ripley in MN and it sounded like similar munitions. According to Wikipedia, which clearly is the current world knowledge base and exceedingly accurate, it's probable that it came from there.
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jul 6, 2010
wiscnews.com/baraboonewsrepubl...

A few rescues made in the park this busy weekend past. The number of casual users (swimmers/hikers/fishers/picnickers) far out weighed the number of climbers in the park this past weekend from what I saw. Not unusual by any means but helps explain the mis-haps in the boulderfields....
By Tradoholic
Sep 20, 2010
If you can do all of the following routes (Just on TR) you can then claim Alex A is your bitch. Start your engines!

Lead them and I will be your bitch, sponge-bath included ;)

"Ice, Rubberman, Shaking Hands With The Chimp, The Zipper, Dyslexia, Zschiesche Roof, Modern Art, and Steaksauce, Assume the Position, AAA, Between the cheeks, Phlogiston, Mental Block, and a few odd ball 5.3's 5.4's"
By Alex A
Dec 29, 2010
What Nick is eluding too, these are the 16 routes that have I have not climbed of the 1600 routes, my to do list, not going to Happen,
I think I'm safe from bitch duty, for awhile, a few of the routes have only 1 ascent, plus need to come to Colorado, to Collect,
good luck on doing them all, you need it,
By Tradoholic
Jan 1, 2011
Just doing the ones Alex hasn't done would be quite the accomplishment, never mind the other 1584 routes! I might be able to close in if I stay in WI ;)
By Tradoholic
Feb 13, 2011
Check out the March 2011 issue of Climbing Magazine for "Lake Effect" by local Jay Knower!
By Tradoholic
May 13, 2011
Another epic journey took me by those bluffs we all see from 113 near Merry Mac's (choss), around the south side of the bluff (choked by thorn bushes), past the end of Halweg Rd (hidden talus field with no big enough boulders), past Burma Rd and through the gorge there, then north through the woods (nuthin'), back to Ski Hi Rd, and straight through the woods to the Fire Road Boulder (some un-done or forgotten lines), up the east bluff (boulders straight back from Chicago about 100 yards), down the Ice Age Trail, though the woods across the sandstone areas (nothing up top, some stuff around New Standstone), and back to the Jeep at the trail head. This means I'm 99% sure there is no climbable rock not posted currently on MP.

But who knows, I didn't see it all...Happy Hunting!
By Juggler
May 31, 2011
To All Chicago Area Climbers:

I am looking for partners to go to WI climbing and other locations(Jackson Falls, DL, The Red, Grand Dads, etc) with.

I have an Airplane and can fly us there. Please send me a PM if you want more details and the cost of sharing the flight expenses. Hope to meet a few of you soon. I can fit up to 4 climbers with me in the Cherokee 6(with room for gear). I also have lodging available in a log cabin in the area :)
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 8, 2012
Well I for one would love to see a well done guide for the area. Especially one with a good history section. The older I get, the more I wish I had time to collect all the old stories I heard at the crags and campfires in my formative years in Wisconsin. Before the fuckness. Hell, I've already forgotton most them, and Groth's are some of the best I have ever heard. Anyway, kudos for even thinking about taking on such a challenge, but it seems like you guys have quite a pool of talent to pull from. I'm sure it would be a labor of love, but that's one the best kinds. Would be psyched to help in anyway.
By Eero46
Feb 22, 2012
What is a good guide book that covers top roping, but more importantly bouldering throughout the whole state of Wisconsin?

I am really interested in the areas Devil's Lake, Governors State Park, Westby, and the central sandstone boulders.
By Josh Olson
From: Durango, CO
Feb 22, 2012
Eoro46, there isn't really a guide for bouldering, the best guidebook for Devil's Lake is Swartling's Guide to Devil's Lake. It is in its third printing now, I personally like the second edition better if you can find it.

Eric Z. did a bouldering guide to Devil's Lake that is alright, there is a link to some copiedish topos on the Devil's Lake bouldering page.
There is no guidebook for the rest of Wisconsin, unless you count the Falcon guide Rock Climbing Minnesota and Wisconsin, but that book is pretty brief for my tastes.

I've never heard of a GDSP guidebook, been there a couple times and haven't really felt a need for anything more than the topos in the areas uploaded by Chris treggE. It would be nice to have one, but I haven't heard of one.

Westby and Central Sandstone are pretty good areas to just play around and find stuff. I've never run into a party there, I would be amazed if there was a guidebook. Print out mountain project and go apeshit. Hillbilly Hollow also has some interesting stuff to boulder, but its not on here. Hit me up for more beta on that area.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 28, 2012
Hey DL climbers! Darin Limvere has now completed an awesome film about the history of the DLFA. The trailer is linked below. The entire film is available for download for a paltry sum of $7. Get on it!

vimeo.com/ondemand/24156/65395...
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 12, 2013
Great and interesting article\interview featuring JJ Schlick - one of Wisconsin's own living and climbing very actively in Arizona...

www.grassroutesclimbing.com/

Posted by Joel Unema originally.
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