The Flying Dutchman is a 1,600 foot couloir that climbs from the west end of Chasm Lake to the north edge of the Loft. To approach the climb, hike around the north side of Chasm Lake. When this route is in condition, it offers quality steep snow climbing punctuated by a short, 55 degree water ice crux.
Protection
Most of this route is on steep snow. Pickets can be used and rock protection can be found along the west edge of the couloir. Two ice screws protect the crux ice.
Climbed this 6/1/03. Fun snow climbing! The crux is mostly melted out and requires a few mixed moves. The rock is rotten here, but there is some good rock pro to be had. From the Loft, we summited Meeker and descended in a raging blizzard!
The snow conditions were pretty good although a bit soft and melting fast!
Crux conditions: we found a mixture of rock and ice interspersed with a samll water fall.
We climbed the rock/ice section on the left since the pure ice alternative was hollow and seemed ready to come down. All in all, a great route with awesome position.
We got blasted by a weird, winter like snow storm, as we reached the Loft and proceeded to descend in poor visibility via the loft route.
Climbed this route on 6/8. Conditions were very good to great. Good neve' owing to the recent cold spell (thanks for the kicked steps John, George, et al!) and crampons were used/needed. More ice than in George's crux photo below. Right side was fatter but still not well-bonded to the rock. Left side was good mixed climbing (M3-ish) with good tool sticks on right. Ice was thick enough in spots for shortie screws.
Climbed Flying Dutchman on 9.14.03. Really not in condition. Thought it might be a little better following the inclement weather. Had to scramble a ways to get on the snow which was really solid; however, screws bottomed out quickly. Lots of exposed rock and gravel. Lots of frozen kitty litter. Very loose. Crux ice was only a few inches thick and melting. Long day but the weather was perfect.
Climbed this 6/7/08. It was not long after a spring storm, so we kicked steps up this to the Loft, got a break on the Clark's Arrow traverse, and then kicked steps to the top. The ice at the crux took one 17cm screw, but there are plenty of placements in the rock to the left of the ice. The cracks are mostly parallel, so cams are a good call. It's a fun snow climb and combined with Clark's Arrow and a descent of the Cables route, a great traverse of Longs.
Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirque
RSS Feed
