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Texas Rock Climbing 

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Location: 30.2875, -97.7261 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jun 23, 2006
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"Fear of Flying" at Enchanted Rock

Description of Texas 

James Crump, the "Godfather" of Texas climbing says, "Texas is BIG! Really big". It is faster to drive from Boulder, CO to Salt Lake City, UT than it is to drive from Enchanted Rock, TX to Hueco Tanks, TX. Fortunately for us though, Texas is virtually jam packed with different types of rock. All this rock just happens to be spread throughout a massive State, so we get an undeserved reputation for being flat.

From the Syenite/Ironrock of Hueco Tanks to the Limestone bluffs of the Central Texas Hill Country and the splitter Pink Granite of Enchanted Rock State Natural Area. Even the Dallas area is adjacent to many fine areas. Texas definitely has it all, especially if you count the Western border with Mexico which is just a massive long wall of limestone, largely unexplored. Speaking of Mexico, Texas is a very convenient launch point for many World class climbing destinations both developed and undiscovered in this magnificent Country as well.

Always be prepared for an adventure when climbing in the "Lone Star State". Most of the State is privately owned and negotiations for climbing are not always welcome. A polite attitude can go a long way.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 1.6 miles from here

2,290 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',138],['3 Stars',886],['2 Stars',883],['1 Star',281],['Bomb',6]

Classic Climbing Routes in Texas

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Texas:
The Melon Patch   V0 4     Boulder   North Mountain : Scary Boulder
Nobody Here Gets Out Alive   V2 5+     Boulder   North Mountain : The Grenade
The Vulgarian   V2 5+     Boulder   East Spur : The Gunks
Ghetto Simulator   V2 5+     Boulder   North Mountain : Ghetto Simulator
Warm Up Roof   V4 6B     Boulder   East Mountain : Warm Up Roof
Girls of Juarez    V4 6B PG13     Boulder, 15'   North Mountain : Girls of Juarez
T-Bone Shuffle   V4 6B     Boulder   North Mountain : The Morgue
Moonshine Roof (center)   V4 6B     Boulder, 25'   East Mountain : Moonshine Roof
Dragon Fly, AKA: Dogmatics   V5 6C     Boulder, 15'   East Mountain : Dragon's Den
Lobsterclaw, AKA:Mr. Negative   V5 6C     Boulder   North Mountain : The New Meadow
Hobbit in a Blender   V5 6C     Boulder, 12'   East Mountain : Dragon's Den
See Spot Run   V6 7A PG13     Boulder, 25'   North Mountain : The Big Time
King Cobra   V6 7A     Boulder   North Mountain : The New Meadow
Baby Face   V7 7A+     Boulder   North Mountain : Trac II
Cave Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch   Echo Canyon : Orange Peel Area
Sweat   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch   Main Dome : News Wall
Eight Flake   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch   Reimer's Ranch : Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall
Owl Crack   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch   Echo Canyon : Triple Cracks Sanctuary
Fear of Flying   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   Buzzard's Roost : East Face of Buzzard's Roos...
Liposuction   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Reimer's Ranch : Sex Cave
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Texas

Featured Route For Texas
Rock Climbing Photo: Opening moves on Double Vision

Double Vision V7 7A+  Texas : Hueco Tanks : ... : Double Vision
Classic tall problem with a high crux. Exciting!Start on the undercling with your feet on the block. Snake eye pockets in the middle of the face mark the beginning of the business. From here it's not many moves, but you start relatively high and the crux is gaining the lip. Fortunately the landing is flat and open, just watch the yucca at the left side....[more]   Browse More Classics in Texas

Photos of Texas Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Silo climbing near Dallas. Photo by Todd Gordon.
Silo climbing near Dallas. Photo by Todd Gordon.
Rock Climbing Photo: Georgetown Limestone
Georgetown Limestone
Rock Climbing Photo: Be careful out there!
Be careful out there!
Rock Climbing Photo: Not the best photo, but this is the view from the ...
Not the best photo, but this is the view from the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark Church leads a 5.9 outside of the North Texas...
Mark Church leads a 5.9 outside of the North Texas...
Rock Climbing Photo: Leadon Meneke on a deep water solo in my back yard...
Leadon Meneke on a deep water solo in my back yard...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lance on the Lonesome Wasp boulder in Palo Duro Ca...
Lance on the Lonesome Wasp boulder in Palo Duro Ca...
Rock Climbing Photo: Little feat 5.9 at Enchanted Rock by sunrise
Little feat 5.9 at Enchanted Rock by sunrise
Rock Climbing Photo: Texas Crash Pad
Texas Crash Pad
Rock Climbing Photo: One of the Triple Cracks at E-Rock
One of the Triple Cracks at E-Rock

Comments on Texas Add Comment
Show which comments
By SirVato
From: Boulder
Jan 24, 2007
Hueco Tanks In touble??

I got an e-mail from a friend
By kyber
From: Portland
Sep 29, 2008
killing time: austin google maps of climbing areas:
By Corey Morris
From: Fort Sam Houston, TX
Aug 25, 2011
Moving to Ft. Hood soon...looking for partners...I'm 39 and have own great to run into some other climbers.
By Dr. Dre
From: Manitou Springs, CO
Sep 16, 2012
Am heading to EP for work a few days and would like to check out Heuco. I heard that the park gate closes at 6 pm. Are there any areas one can still access for climbing or bouldering after 6 pm without issues, if one were to park outside the gate?
By jjjjjjjjjj
May 11, 2016
Here are some websites that can be used in conjunction with MP to aid in finding a wonderful place to climb. - online guides and photos - a lot of online guides, hundreds and hundreds of old pictures of Texas climbing, a lot of info on the history of many Texas climbing areas, has an excellent tool to use for Pace Bend deep water soloing - has tons and tons of old pictures, mostly bouldering (look on the bottom left of the page for the list of areas) - the infamously defunct and deserted has a lot of the same info as MP, except with a lot of the old climbing spots in Texas that have kind of been forgotten about - Central Texas Mountaineers, the climbers organization for Centex areas. They're in charge of a lot of important things and stuff - per CTM, report bad hardware here. "Short, steep, soul-crushing gnar". - 4 free downloadable guides to McKinney, Rogers, Monster Rock, and Bull Creek - free - - the perfect place for ego-stoking, spray, stalking your heroes, and maybe even picking up some good beta on your local central Texas crags
By mike varlotta
From: Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Jan 12, 2017
I will be in and around Texas for most of July this coming summer. I am guessing that that is probably the worst month to climb there, but I'm hoping there might be some areas where either elevation and/or shade allow for tolerable mid-summer climbing. I will be driving through Illinois, Missouri and Oklahoma and could detour through Arkansas. I don't mind adding some extra miles in order to find places that can be enjoyed in the dog days of summer. Hoping to get some good beta out there as I piece together this road trip. Thanks!!

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