Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Mike Head
Page Views: 7,338 total · 46/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Apr 5, 2006
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


109 Opinions

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Access Issue: East Mountain is accessed by Guided Tour Only Details
Access Issue: Some areas require a guide. Details

Description

Once and still considered a mega-classic. Follow the left angling flake crack with good holds that are quite spaced and bad feet to its end on a monster jug. Make a huge move out left to an OK hold, heal hook right and go right hand to a gaston. Then swing the feet left to another heal and go to a left hand gaston, step up and top out.

Alternately, go the the right hand gaston with the left hand as a side pull and make a big move straight up the blunt prow over a worse landing for a slightly harder and more direct finish. Seems to be rarely done, but it is actually quite good especially if you've done the original finish multiple times.

Location
Just left of Dry Dock around the corner following the sweet left arching flake/crack.

Protection

crash pads and spotters, if you do the right finish you may want a few more pads as the landing zone then includes the rock shelf that everyone tends to sit on behind the problem.

Photos

Joe Collins  
 
2 stars??? C'mon, this is one of the best boulder problems on the planet. Nov 22, 2007
As I pulled the top of this line it felt a little tweeky for the onsight maybe with diff beta its not so bad. Jun 11, 2010
Tim Steele
Bishop, CA.
Tim Steele   Bishop, CA.
Also used to be known as Dogmatics. Dec 27, 2010
SJG Jayne
Denver, CO
SJG Jayne   Denver, CO
really sweet line. I hope to get it next trip. May 9, 2012