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Routes in Trac II

Baby Face V7 7A+
Brut V0 4
Daily Dick Dose V7 7A+
Flying Marcel V10-11 8A
Paleozoic V8-9 7B+
Pumped Full of Semen V9 7C
Reject, The V1 5
Used Blade, The V0+ 4+
WPA V7 7A+
Zulu Flex V6 7A
Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,982 total, 56/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Mar 31, 2006
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


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Some areas require a guide. Details

Description

This route ascends the NW arete of the Trac II Boulder. Begin with the right hand on the heavily chalked hold on the arete, 7 feet above the ground, and the left hand pinching a crimper sidepull 5 feet above the ground and 4 feet left of the arete (this start is reachy for shorties). Bring the feet up into a high stem, drop your left knee, and move left hand up to the high sidepull crimp. Adjust feet, and bump the left hand to the obvious 1/2" horizontal crimp. Move the right hand up the arete (crux?), then bump. The next pocket out left is relatively jug-like. Hit the lip and mantle easily. Descend the west side.

Location

Facing DDD, walk left and then turn right into a corridor. Baby Face is the tall arete on the left.

Protection

crash pads
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
The first move was by far the crux for me. It probably took me 20 tries to stick the first move (many of these were with the low feet that I just couldn't make the reach with). After figuring out the first move it was only a couple of tries to figure the rest of it out. So for shorties the first move is probably the crux.

I've also seen heel hook beta to get the first crimp, but holding the following swing looks hard. Apr 29, 2010
chummer
 
chummer  
 
I was working this problem once and watched Obe Carrion climb it in his TENNIS SHOES.
Best V7 at Hueco? Feb 6, 2008