Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 9,657 total · 60/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Mar 31, 2006
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


62 Opinions

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Access Issue: Some areas require a guide. Details

Description

This route ascends the NW arete of the Trac II Boulder. Begin with the right hand on the heavily chalked hold on the arete, 7 feet above the ground, and the left hand pinching a crimper sidepull 5 feet above the ground and 4 feet left of the arete (this start is reachy for shorties). Bring the feet up into a high stem, drop your left knee, and move left hand up to the high sidepull crimp. Adjust feet, and bump the left hand to the obvious 1/2" horizontal crimp. Move the right hand up the arete (crux?), then bump. The next pocket out left is relatively jug-like. Hit the lip and mantle easily. Descend the west side.

Location

Facing DDD, walk left and then turn right into a corridor. Baby Face is the tall arete on the left.

Protection

crash pads
chummer
 
chummer  
 
I was working this problem once and watched Obe Carrion climb it in his TENNIS SHOES.
Best V7 at Hueco? Feb 6, 2008
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
The first move was by far the crux for me. It probably took me 20 tries to stick the first move (many of these were with the low feet that I just couldn't make the reach with). After figuring out the first move it was only a couple of tries to figure the rest of it out. So for shorties the first move is probably the crux.

I've also seen heel hook beta to get the first crimp, but holding the following swing looks hard. Apr 29, 2010
ROCKMAN2
Nederland, CO
ROCKMAN2   Nederland, CO
HARD v7.. but so classic! Oct 29, 2018
Ryan Salazar
  V8
Ryan Salazar  
  V8
This climb is one of the hardest v7s at Hueco, double digit climbers send it saying it could be v9. I sent multiple climbs harder than the v7 to just finally send this thing. I would propose upgrading to v8 because there are not enough of this grade on North and it easily fits the bill. Unless you are a crimping god be prepared to try really hard. May 2, 2019