Description

Deep water soloing and water bouldering! Great for the Texas heat! Some very good walls can be even accessed without a boat, although having a boat makes the experience much more enjoyable. Make sure you check the landings, especially if the water level is low! Some of the rock can be chossy, test your holds before committing.

Grades and route length can vary due to water level, so the listed grade and height is more of an approximation then anything else.

If you don't have a real boat, the best system I've found is to get an inflatable raft, hike in with it in a backpack and then blow it up with a hand pump once you get near the walls. This saves you from having to do some very sketchy hiking (maybe 4th class for some people?) while carrying an unwieldy inflated boat. It is also alot easier to start most of the climbs from an inflatable boat instead of an inner tube or the like.

If you decide to use an inflatable raft (very convenient and recommended unless you have a real boat), make sure you take enough life preservers for everyone in the boat because it is common to have the lake patrol come check you while on the water.

Getting There

For the areas that can be reached by hiking, park at the Soldiers Bluff park (free) off of Hwy 22, next to the dam.

12 Total Climbs

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Location: Lake Whitney (DWS) Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Lake Whitney (DWS)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
Gettin' High
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Nikki's Flake
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Gettin' High Corral
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Nikki's Flake Corral
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
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936Brian
Austin, Texas
936Brian   Austin, Texas
Amazing free camping at Soldiers Bluff and Walling Bend that is rarely ever crowded. Walling Bend is more scenic and quitter but further away from most of the DWS. Sep 30, 2014
Joe Kreidel
San Antonio, TX
Joe Kreidel   San Antonio, TX
What is a good water level for climbing here? Would love to check it out, but would want conditions to be decent before making the trip from SA. Aug 22, 2018