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Areas in Reimer's Ranch

Arbor Wall 0 / 15 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
Check Your Head Wall 0 / 5 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Crankenstein 1 / 22 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
Dead Cats 0 / 23 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 24
Dead Cats Annex 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Digitron Boulder (AKA. T-Rex Boulder) 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall 0 / 24 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 24
Hand Beyond Wall 0 / 22 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
House of Pain 0 / 12 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Insect Wall (including Block Party) 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
King Bee Memorial Buttress 0 / 3 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Landfill Wall 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Mai Tai Wall 0 / 7 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Millennium Wall 0 / 3 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Oblivion Wall 0 / 7 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Rhetoric Wall 0 / 8 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Serpent Wall 0 / 10 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Sex Canyon 0 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Sex Cave 0 / 12 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Sunshine Roof 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
T-Roofic Wall 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Tit for Tom 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
War on Rugs Wall 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
World's Greatest Boulder 0 / 4 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Zoe's Wall 0 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8

Description

Located approximately 30 miles southwest of Austin, Reimer's Ranch provides an excellent selection of pocketed limestone sport climbs ranging from 5.5 to 5.14. The majority of the walls overlook the Pedernales river a short distance away which provides an excellent post-climb cool down in the summer.

In the past, climbers would usually be greeted by Milton Reimer or his wife, Joy, at the gate. For two dollars a person, one gained access to excellent climbing in a beautiful locale. The entry ticket contained the rules ("No naked parties, no beer drinkin", etc.).

Travis County recently purchased the property and began official operation on December 1, 2005. Starting in January of 2006, the park was open to the public 7 days a week (it was previously open only Thursday through Sunday) from sunrise to sunset. The current entry fee is $8.00 per car (so pack 'em in). Check out Travis County's website for Reimer's Ranch Park for more information on hours and fees.

EDIT (02/2013):The County has done a really nice job renovating the facilities at the park. There are now flush toilets and covered picnic areas at the climbers trailhead as well as more extensive restroom facilities at the mountain bike trailhead across the main road, including outdoor showers? The entry fee has been raised to $10 a car, so carpool.

Getting There

From Austin, take Highway 71 west. Turn left at FM 3238 (also known as Hamilton Pool Road). The entrance to the ranch will be approximately 12 miles down this road on the right.

251 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Reimer's Ranch

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eight Flake
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Back Flip
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
My Name is Mud
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Water Ballet
Sport, TR
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dead Cats
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Prototype
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
T-Roofic Detour
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wife in the Fast Lane
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bolt Talk
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blowing Smoke at the Monkey
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Crankenstien
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Liposuction
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Yertle the Turtle
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Jade
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rain Dance
Sport
Eight Flake Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Back Flip Dead Cats 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
My Name is Mud Dead Cats 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Water Ballet Dead Cats 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR
Dead Cats Dead Cats 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Prototype Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
T-Roofic Detour T-Roofic Wall 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Wife in the Fast Lane Crankenstein 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Bolt Talk Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Blowing Smoke at the Monkey Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Crankenstien Crankenstein 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Liposuction Sex Cave 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Yertle the Turtle Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Jade House of Pain 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Rain Dance House of Pain 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Reimer's Ranch »

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Jake Westfall
Austin, TX
Jake Westfall   Austin, TX
I think I remember hearing that they chose to close down following some vandalism from campers (?). Aug 23, 2017
Anyone know what happened to the "Rock Dog" Campground outside the park? Have any alternatives popped up? It was really convenient. Aug 22, 2017
Jesse Bruni
Austin
Jesse Bruni   Austin
Actually, they just rescinded the rule for annual pass holders and vehicles with an occupant 62 years of age or older. So if you have an annual pass you will not be charged, and if you have an occupant in your vehicle 62 years old or older you will only be charged the typical $10 fee. May 16, 2017
To clarify the above comment, the day use fee for Reimers Ranch in the summer (May 1st through September 30th) has been increased on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday from $10 to $15. Even if you have a yearly Travis County Parks pass, you must still pay the extra $5 to enter the park. May 15, 2017
Starting May 2016, there is a $5 surcharge on Friday-Sunday May-October. The surcharge applies to pass holders as well. Apr 21, 2017
Matt Richardson
Longmont, CO
Matt Richardson   Longmont, CO  
30 m should be sufficient for most routes, but that only gets you 50'. Is packing 60 m too much? The hike in is not huge... Oct 15, 2014
Is 30m enough rope for Reimer's or should I just bring my 60? Aug 25, 2014
Daniel Rickert
Dallas, TX
Daniel Rickert   Dallas, TX
FYI the current entry fee is $10 and they only take cash. There is an ATM in a gas station/convenience mart a mile from the entrance Jun 4, 2014
Sam, The best part of the day in August is morning and evening. The beauty of Reimers Ranch is that in the hottest part of the day you can take advantage of the river running in the area and cool off.
If you are going more in the mid day, I would suggest the North Shore area of Reimers, as it is in the shade the whole day. Plus they keep adding new routes there that haven't been polished by the high traffic. Aug 22, 2013
Sam A.
San Antonio, TX
Sam A.   San Antonio, TX
Is there a best time of day to climb during the summer at Reimer's? A few friends want to go this weekend, but we're just wondering if there are some shadow chasing opportunities here. Thanks. Aug 12, 2013
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
Jay, I believe that Prototype, House of Pain, Crankenstien etc. face either west or slightly NW and catch afternoon sun. Dead Cats, T-roofic, Tit for Tom face more West or SW and catch sun earlier. Sex Canyon and Cave face south though their steep nature provides shade in the summer, the Canyon probably gets sun in winter while the Cave probably does not. There are also a few routes across the canyon that face north and would not catch sun.

As far as temperatures go it has never been TOO cold for me to climb there and we visit often for Thanksgiving and Christmas. That said it can be cold and the humidity compared to NM will make it seem a bit colder. That said you could need down jackets to belay or it could be 70 degrees.

Wind has never been a problem when I've been there. Oct 26, 2011
Jfoley  
What is the climbing like here in Dec-Jan? Sunny cliffs?,windy?,temps?

Thanks! Oct 22, 2011
Steve Marr
Colorado Springs, CO
Steve Marr   Colorado Springs, CO
You can download a number of .pdf topos for the climbing areas at Reimer's Ranch from the Texas Climbers web site (texasclimbers.com):

Reimer's Ranch Topos Dec 15, 2006

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