Description

Like the Dead Cats wall, this face is an ultra-popular area. It has a great mix of sport climbs from 5.8 to 5.12. The base is shady throughout the day while the upper portions of the climbs on the right side of the wall will be in the sun from Noon on. These routes are well bolted and well maintained. Bring along 10 quick draws some long slings and lockers for the top bolts and a 50 meter rope and you'll be set. All routes are single pitch with the descent via rappels from the anchors.

Getting There

The Dr. Seuss / Prototype wall is located across the creek from the parking lot. Follow the spring flow down the creek towards the Pedernales River. Hike down past the Sex Cave and Sex Wall and cross the creek to the left at your first possible convenience. Follow this trail around past Teva Slab(a detached 25 ft. limestone block) on your right and another large limestone boulder on your left. The trail winds back to the left and dead-ends in a grove of trees and into the Prototype Wall. The Dr. Seuss portion of the wall is 50 ft. to the left on the flank of the Prototype wall.

26 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 162
Eight Flake
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 40
Clone Call
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 23
Star Belly Sneeches
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 152
Prototype
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 31
Socks On Chicks
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 49
Bolt Talk
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 30
Unnatural
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 59
Blowing Smoke at the Monkey
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 12
Butter Side Down
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
 12
Mas Cerveza
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 5
Horton Here's a Tufa
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 51
Yertle the Turtle
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 5
Rolling out the Red Carpet
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 11
Grinch
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 4
Flinch
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Eight Flake
 162
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Clone Call
 40
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Star Belly Sneeches
 23
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Prototype
 152
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Socks On Chicks
 31
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Bolt Talk
 49
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Unnatural
 30
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Blowing Smoke at the Monkey
 59
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Butter Side Down
 12
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Mas Cerveza
 12
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R Sport
Horton Here's a Tufa
 5
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Yertle the Turtle
 51
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Rolling out the Red Carpet
 5
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Grinch
 11
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Flinch
 4
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall »

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