Type: Sport
FA: Curtis Mai
Page Views: 1,065 total · 7/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Nov 12, 2006
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

Smitten Psychopath is the first climb on the left side of the Dr. Seuss Wall. Look for a prominent, short arete with three bolts. Belay from a narrow ledge that runs along the base of the wall. A couple moves off the ground lead to a solid ledge. From the ledge climb up and left through a small overhang. The last clip is ballancy. The rock is a little sharp on this one, and the climbing looks easier than it is.

Protection

Three bolts to anchors.

Photos

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Ted Pinson
Chicago, IL
Ted Pinson   Chicago, IL
Is this still the left-most climb? I climbed something on this wall a few weeks ago that somewhat matches this description, but it did NOT feel like 5.9 (5.8 at best, I'd even say 5.6), although it did have 3 bolts like most of the routes on the left side. Jan 15, 2017
Jesse Bruni
Austin
Jesse Bruni   Austin
Ted,

No, the leftmost route is new, bolted and FA'd by Karl Vochatzer called "There's a Wocket in my Pocket" and goes at about 5.8. Feb 15, 2017