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Routes in Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall

Bisector S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blowing Smoke at the Monkey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bolt Talk S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bongo Fury S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Butter Side Down S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Clone Call S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Demasiadas Cervezas S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eight Flake S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flinch S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Grinch S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Her Majesty's Secret Tranverse S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Horton Here's a Tufa S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mas Cerveza S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Prototype S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
ReKleiner, The S,TR 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Rolling out the Red Carpet S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Smitten Psychopath S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Socks On Chicks S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Star Belly Sneeches S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sugar S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
There's a Wocket in my Pocket S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thing 1 Thing 2 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnatural S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yertle the Turtle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Curtis Mai
Page Views: 963 total · 7/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Nov 12, 2006
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Description

Smitten Psychopath is the first climb on the left side of the Dr. Seuss Wall. Look for a prominent, short arete with three bolts. Belay from a narrow ledge that runs along the base of the wall. A couple moves off the ground lead to a solid ledge. From the ledge climb up and left through a small overhang. The last clip is ballancy. The rock is a little sharp on this one, and the climbing looks easier than it is.

Protection

Three bolts to anchors.

Photos

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Ted Pinson
Chicago, IL
Ted Pinson   Chicago, IL
Is this still the left-most climb? I climbed something on this wall a few weeks ago that somewhat matches this description, but it did NOT feel like 5.9 (5.8 at best, I'd even say 5.6), although it did have 3 bolts like most of the routes on the left side. Jan 15, 2017
Jesse Bruni
Austin
Jesse Bruni   Austin
Ted,

No, the leftmost route is new, bolted and FA'd by Karl Vochatzer called "There's a Wocket in my Pocket" and goes at about 5.8. Feb 15, 2017

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