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8/9/2019: This are has been reopened thanks to the efforts of Travis County Parks, Austin Climbing Coalition and many volunteers. Please note all routes to the right of Yertle the Turtle were destroyed and exposed rock may be fragile and dangerous.
1/16/2019: A large section of this wall has collapsed and the entire area is now closed. Please respect the park's closure and stay away from this area. This includes hiking. All routes from the Grinch to the right have been destroyed by massive rock failure on 1/16/19
Like the Dead Cats wall, this face is an ultra-popular area. It has a great mix of sport climbs from 5.8 to 5.12. The base is shady throughout the day while the upper portions of the climbs on the right side of the wall will be in the sun from Noon on. These routes are well bolted and well maintained. Bring along 10 quick draws some long slings and lockers for the top bolts and a 50 meter rope and you'll be set. All routes are single pitch with the descent via rappels from the anchors.
The Dr. Seuss / Prototype wall is located across the creek from the parking lot. Follow the spring flow down the creek towards the Pedernales River. Hike down past the Sex Cave and Sex Wall and cross the creek to the left at your first possible convenience. Follow this trail around past Teva Slab(a detached 25 ft. limestone block) on your right and another large limestone boulder on your left. The trail winds back to the left and dead-ends in a grove of trees and into the Prototype Wall. The Dr. Seuss portion of the wall is 50 ft. to the left on the flank of the Prototype wall.
| Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ● There's a Wocket in my Pocket |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport | ||
| ● Smitten Psychopath |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport | ||
| ● Buttered Side Up |
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport | ||
| ● Horton Here's a Tufa |
|
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport | ||
| ● Thing 1 Thing 2 |
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport | ||
| ● Star Belly Sneeches |
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport | ||
| ● Socks On Chicks |
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport | ||
| ● Blowing Smoke at the Monkey |
|
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport | ||
| ● Yertle the Turtle |
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport | ||
| ● Flinch |
|
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport | ||
| ● Eight Flake (HISTORIC ROUTE) |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport | ||
| ● Prototype (HISTORIC ROUTE) |
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport | ||
| ● Sugar (HISTORIC ROUTE) |
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport | ||
| ● Bongo Fury Direct (HISTORIC… |
|
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport | ||
| ● The ReKleiner (HISTORIC ROUTE) |
|
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport, TR |
Chicago, IL
mountainproject.com/forum/t… Jan 16, 2019
the proverbial west
RIP Protoype January 2019 Feb 12, 2019
Driftwood, TX
the proverbial west