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Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall

Texas > Austin Area > Reimers Ranch

Description

NOTE: A large section of this wall has collapsed and the entire area is now closed. Please respect the park's closure and stay away from this area. This includes hiking. All routes from the Grinch to the right have been destroyed by massive rock failure on 1/16/19

Like the Dead Cats wall, this face is an ultra-popular area. It has a great mix of sport climbs from 5.8 to 5.12. The base is shady throughout the day while the upper portions of the climbs on the right side of the wall will be in the sun from Noon on. These routes are well bolted and well maintained. Bring along 10 quick draws some long slings and lockers for the top bolts and a 50 meter rope and you'll be set. All routes are single pitch with the descent via rappels from the anchors.

Getting There

The Dr. Seuss / Prototype wall is located across the creek from the parking lot. Follow the spring flow down the creek towards the Pedernales River. Hike down past the Sex Cave and Sex Wall and cross the creek to the left at your first possible convenience. Follow this trail around past Teva Slab(a detached 25 ft. limestone block) on your right and another large limestone boulder on your left. The trail winds back to the left and dead-ends in a grove of trees and into the Prototype Wall. The Dr. Seuss portion of the wall is 50 ft. to the left on the flank of the Prototype wall.

Routes from Left to Right

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
There's a Wocket in my Pocket
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 20
Smitten Psychopath
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 1
Buttered Side Up
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 5
Horton Here's a Tufa
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Thing 1 Thing 2
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 24
Star Belly Sneeches
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 32
Socks On Chicks
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 61
Blowing Smoke at the Monkey
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 54
Yertle the Turtle
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 4
Flinch
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 12
Grinch
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 5
Rolling out the Red Carpet
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 15
Butter Side Down
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 171
Eight Flake
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 30
Bisector
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 42
Clone Call
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 2
Demasiadas Cervezas
Sport, TR
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
 13
Mas Cerveza
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 159
Prototype
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 8
Sugar
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 51
Bolt Talk
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 30
Unnatural
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 8
Bongo Fury
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 1
Bongo Fury Direct
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 2
Her Majesty's Secret Traverse
Sport, TR
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 1
The ReKleiner
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
There's a Wocket in my Pocket
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Smitten Psychopath
 20
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Buttered Side Up
 1
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Horton Here's a Tufa
 5
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Thing 1 Thing 2
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Star Belly Sneeches
 24
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Socks On Chicks
 32
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Blowing Smoke at the Monkey
 61
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Yertle the Turtle
 54
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Flinch
 4
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Grinch
 12
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Rolling out the Red Carpet
 5
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Butter Side Down
 15
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Eight Flake
 171
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Bisector
 30
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
Clone Call
 42
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Demasiadas Cervezas
 2
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, TR
Mas Cerveza
 13
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R Sport
Prototype
 159
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Sugar
 8
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Bolt Talk
 51
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Unnatural
 30
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Bongo Fury
 8
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Bongo Fury Direct
 1
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Her Majesty's Secret Traverse
 2
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, TR
The ReKleiner
 1
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport, TR

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The starts of the routes from the ledge at Prototytpe:<br>
*Mas Cervesa 5.11b<br>
*Prototype 5.10d<br>
*Sugar 5.10d<br>
*Bolt Talk 5.11a<br>
*Unnatural Selection 5.11a<br>
*Bongo Fury 5.11c
[Hide Photo] The starts of the routes from the ledge at Prototytpe: Mas Cervesa 5.11bPrototype 5.10dSugar 5.10dBolt Talk 5.11aUnnatural Selection 5.11aBongo Fury 5.11c

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Randy Von Zee
Darien, IL
[Hide Comment] Most or everything right of Yertle has been destroyed. :(
mountainproject.com/forum/t… Jan 16, 2019
JLilStar _
Centex
[Hide Comment] RIP SARG January 2017
RIP Protoype January 2019 Feb 12, 2019
Robert S
Driftwood, TX
[Hide Comment] This side of Reimers is open again. May 9, 2019