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Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall

Texas > Austin Area > Reimers Ranch

Description

8/9/2019: This are has been reopened thanks to the efforts of Travis County Parks, Austin Climbing Coalition and many volunteers. Please note all routes to the right of Yertle the Turtle were destroyed and exposed rock may be fragile and dangerous.

1/16/2019: A large section of this wall has collapsed and the entire area is now closed. Please respect the park's closure and stay away from this area. This includes hiking. All routes from the Grinch to the right have been destroyed by massive rock failure on 1/16/19

Like the Dead Cats wall, this face is an ultra-popular area. It has a great mix of sport climbs from 5.8 to 5.12. The base is shady throughout the day while the upper portions of the climbs on the right side of the wall will be in the sun from Noon on. These routes are well bolted and well maintained. Bring along 10 quick draws some long slings and lockers for the top bolts and a 50 meter rope and you'll be set. All routes are single pitch with the descent via rappels from the anchors.

Getting There

The Dr. Seuss / Prototype wall is located across the creek from the parking lot. Follow the spring flow down the creek towards the Pedernales River. Hike down past the Sex Cave and Sex Wall and cross the creek to the left at your first possible convenience. Follow this trail around past Teva Slab(a detached 25 ft. limestone block) on your right and another large limestone boulder on your left. The trail winds back to the left and dead-ends in a grove of trees and into the Prototype Wall. The Dr. Seuss portion of the wall is 50 ft. to the left on the flank of the Prototype wall.

Routes from Left to Right

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 25
There's a Wocket in my Pocket
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 34
Smitten Psychopath
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 11
Buttered Side Up
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 24
Horton Here's a Tufa
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 9
Thing 1 Thing 2
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 53
Star Belly Sneeches
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 52
Socks On Chicks
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 111
Blowing Smoke at the Monkey
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 99
Yertle the Turtle
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 13
Flinch
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 181
Eight Flake (HISTORIC ROUTE)
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 173
Prototype (HISTORIC ROUTE)
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 9
Sugar (HISTORIC ROUTE)
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 1
Bongo Fury Direct (HISTORIC ROUTE)
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 1
The ReKleiner (HISTORIC ROUTE)
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
There's a Wocket in my Pocket
 25
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Smitten Psychopath
 34
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Buttered Side Up
 11
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Horton Here's a Tufa
 24
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Thing 1 Thing 2
 9
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Star Belly Sneeches
 53
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Socks On Chicks
 52
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Blowing Smoke at the Monkey
 111
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Yertle the Turtle
 99
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Flinch
 13
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Eight Flake (HISTORIC ROUTE)
 181
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Prototype (HISTORIC ROUTE)
 173
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Sugar (HISTORIC ROUTE)
 9
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Bongo Fury Direct (HISTORIC…
 1
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
The ReKleiner (HISTORIC ROUTE)
 1
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport, TR

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The starts of the routes from the ledge at Prototytpe:<br>
*Mas Cervesa 5.11b<br>
*Prototype 5.10d<br>
*Sugar 5.10d<br>
*Bolt Talk 5.11a<br>
*Unnatural Selection 5.11a<br>
*Bongo Fury 5.11c
[Hide Photo] The starts of the routes from the ledge at Prototytpe: Mas Cervesa 5.11bPrototype 5.10dSugar 5.10dBolt Talk 5.11aUnnatural Selection 5.11aBongo Fury 5.11c

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Randy Von Zee
Chicago, IL
[Hide Comment] Most or everything right of Yertle has been destroyed. :(
mountainproject.com/forum/t… Jan 16, 2019
JLilStar _
the proverbial west
[Hide Comment] RIP SARG January 2017
RIP Protoype January 2019 Feb 12, 2019
Robert S
Driftwood, TX
[Hide Comment] This side of Reimers is open again. May 9, 2019
JLilStar _
the proverbial west
[Hide Comment] Three and half years have passed and I am no less heartbroken than I was when I first heard the news about Prototype crumbling. You will never be forgotten, you will never be lost. Maybe one day the AI overlords will parse our collective memories and be able to re-construct the experience of climbing at Prototype Wall and grace us with the ability to climb those routes again in VR Jul 29, 2022