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Routes in Dr. Seuss / Prototype Wall

Bisector S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blowing Smoke at the Monkey S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bolt Talk S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bongo Fury S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Butter Side Down S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Clone Call S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Demasiadas Cervezas S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eight Flake S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flinch S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Grinch S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Her Majesty's Secret Tranverse S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Horton Here's a Tufa S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mas Cerveza S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Prototype S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
ReKleiner, The S,TR 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Rolling out the Red Carpet S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Smitten Psychopath S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Socks On Chicks S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Star Belly Sneeches S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sugar S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
There's a Wocket in my Pocket S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thing 1 Thing 2 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnatural S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yertle the Turtle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,999 total · 24/month
Shared By: kyber on Sep 29, 2008
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Description

Good fun on 11- holds/moves to a tough crux at top. I remember this climb as being a climb that started making me realize good technique will make some hard climbs feel really easy once you get it all down.

Location

To the left of Flinch 12b and Grinch 12c on Dr Seuss Wall which is the raised area left of Prototype...

Protection

4 or 5 bolts + anchors (it might have sport anchors these days)

Photos

LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
This route is only about 30 feet tall, and climbs the nice looking brown rock with 4 bolts. Dec 2, 2008
Dylan Weldin
Athens, OH
 
Dylan Weldin   Athens, OH
 
Painful crux hold makes working on this one rough... Dec 18, 2011
Yertle is basically a tall boulder problem, but totally worth doing. Many people stick-clip the first and even second bolt (2 bolts out of 4), but you don't need to stick-clip at all, it's very easy to clip. Oct 30, 2015
Jesse Bruni
Austin
 
Jesse Bruni   Austin
 
Danny Androos
Austin, TX
Danny Androos   Austin, TX
If you stick clip the second bolt (with the rope through it) does it still count as a redpoint? Clipping that second bolt from the crimp rail just doesn't seem like a 5.12a move... Jan 10, 2018
Jesse Bruni
Austin
 
Jesse Bruni   Austin
 
Danny, most redpoints on this route are done with the 2nd bolt pre-clipped for safety reasons (it's a difficult clip and you can deck if you blow it) and yes, most people count it as a redpoint. However, clipping the bolts on lead doesn't give you 12b by any stretch, it's still 12a. Jan 16, 2018

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