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Routes in Insect Wall (including Block Party)

Block Party S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Crack Attack S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Deflower Power S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Dragonfly S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dreamkeeper S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Ill Ninja Skills S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Malaria S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mantis S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Patience Grasshopper S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Scorpion Child S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ship of Fools S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Wild Spider S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,341 total · 15/month
Shared By: Rami Najjar on Dec 12, 2010
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


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Description

Although some of the original good holds broke at the start, the route is still doable. Jugs, slopers, crimps, and even a dyno!! Starts off with a rumored v9 boulder problem which ends at the hueco. Climb around and past the awesome tufa to a difficult redpoint crux at the top!

Location

2-3 bolt lines down right from Scorpion Child. It has a very chalked up volleyball shaped sloper near the start.

Protection

Stick clip first and second bolt! The rest of the clips are all decent to clip off of. Good bolting.

Photos

Jesse Bruni
Austin
  5.13d
Jesse Bruni   Austin
  5.13d
Video Beta

youtu.be/5_-lzsG8lGg Dec 30, 2017
Austin Howell
Atlanta, Georgia
Austin Howell   Atlanta, Georgia
Two bits, I managed to skip most of the spinal tufa by cranking off a mono directly after the hueco... and that ending dyno seemed improbable... but I'm a VERY static climber. the static version bumped my right hand through two additional shallow two finger pockets before balancing myself to put my left hand on the finish jug.

In any case, it's a super cool route. Really one of the more fun climbs I've hopped on. Hard to speculate grade, its definitely the hardest thing I've pulled onto by a fair margin. Dec 27, 2010
Rami Najjar  
 
I am projecting Wild Spider and know the moves quite well. I guess your right about the dyno at the end, although i feel it is the best way for most everyone. I have heard stories of it being harder than 13c. I might as well just put 13+ because of its ambiguity. Dec 24, 2010
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
Rami, have you done Wild Spider? I know that Michael and Brian A have done it recently and had heard that they both thought it was 5.13d...instead of 5.13c. Having been on it, it seems possible that it could be harder than advertised. In addition, there is no need to dyno at the end...though that is what they both did. Dec 13, 2010

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