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Routes in Sex Canyon

Blood of the Dead (sangre de los muertos) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bolus S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dark Energy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Friends and Lovers S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
High Anxiety S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hyper Salvation S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Learning to Crawl S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Learning to Fly S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Let Them Eat Flake S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Love is a Fist S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mistaken Identity S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
No Recess S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pulmonary Choss S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Snaggletufad S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Super Cruiser S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Telegraph Road S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Description

Nice overhanging wall with stalactites down low in places. Mostly shaded most of the day, stays dry in a light rain except for the tops of the routes. Routes mostly from 5.11 to 5.13 with one 5.10. A handful of drilled pockets and some glue on a few routes.

In the left group of routes there are a couple of routes in a prominent white swath of rock then a grey bulge that is home to Bros Before Hoes 5.12+ after this there are a handfull of "unknown" routes that climb out or to the right of a big low roof. The route out the seam in the roof is undone while the routes to the right are about 5.13-.

The center group of routes:
1. No Reccess 5.12
2. Learning to Crawl 5.12c (fixed draws)
3. Super Cruiser 5.13b (fixed cable draws)
4. Learning to Fly 5.12b
4.5. Hyper Salvation 5.13b (link up of 4 and 5 @ the 2nd bolt)
5. Bolus 5.12d (fixed draw on 3rd bolt)
6. Love is a Fist 5.12c
7. Let them Eat Flake 5.12-
8. Blood of the Dead 5.11b
9. Telagraph Road 5.11

The right group of routes:
11. Mistaken Identity 5.11c
12. Pulmonary Choss 5.10
13. the guide book lists a 3rd line but I did not see it...OH I found it, climbs extreamly fractured rock just right of the previous route

Getting There

The long overhanging wall down canyon from the Sex Cave on the right.

16 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sex Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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