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Routes in Insect Wall (including Block Party)

Backslider S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Block Party S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Crack Attack S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Deflower Power S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dragonfly S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dreamkeeper S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Ill Ninja Skills S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Malaria S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mantis S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Patience Grasshopper S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Scorpion Child S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ship of Fools S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Singularity S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Wild Spider S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
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Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Rupesh
Page Views: 1,113 total · 10/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Nov 3, 2009
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Description

Pull moves on somewhat sloping holds out the low overhang. Mantle up onto the face , you can move left at this point to get a better rest, though once on the face it is pretty easy to rest anyway. Climb crimps up the face to some big holds just before the final overhang. Make long moves on positive holds up onto the short headwall and the anchors at the top.

Location

This route is at the left end of Insect Wall. At the end of the wall there are a couple of boulders that allow you to easily access a ledge about 8 feet off the ground. Move right on this ledge from the boulders till you come to a 1 foot high stump of a small tree that was cut down to put this route up and a bunch of other bushes. Start just to the left of the stump on some juggy horizontal breaks.

Protection

6 bolts to a bolted anchor. You can reach the first bolt from the ground if you are an average height male otherwise you will want a stick clip and may want to consider stick clipping the second anyway.

Photos

Probably one of the best 12-'s at Reimers Aug 20, 2014
BrianLee
Austin, Texas
  5.12b
BrianLee   Austin, Texas
  5.12b
There are two quick links at the anchors, so be equipped to clean. I placed two biners from my Omega Pacific quickdraw(good riddance) to use as anchors. I'll see how long they stay up there :) Jan 20, 2015
Footage of route:
youtube.com/watch?v=V3PXLi0… Apr 25, 2018
Todd F
  5.12a
Todd F  
  5.12a
Best sport route I've ever climbed! I just pull up to clip the first bolt and come back down to rest before starting. Many people prefer to just stick clip the second. May 23, 2018

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