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Routes in Sex Cave

.50 Cal S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
38 Special S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Bariatric V2 5+
Body Wax S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Castle in the Sky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Donkey Lady S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Elephant Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Head S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Liposuction S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lucky Strikes S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Roman Orgy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spider Grind S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Zen and The Art of Stick Clipping S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Jeff Jackson
Page Views: 2,958 total, 22/month
Shared By: Matt Weisman on Oct 24, 2006
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Description

Classic Reimers route that ascends what seems like the steepest section of the sex cave.

Starts out with easy climbing till the second bolt. Use bomber underclings to set up for a huge throw to a jug. The contrived finish ends above the last bolt in the chossy cave.

Don't blow any of the clips as you will surely deck

Location

In the sex cave center right of lucky strikes

Protection

four bolts and no anchors
Sam Anderson  
 
Super cool v5 climbing. If this thing had a flat landing, it would be one of the most traveled boulder problems in central Texas. May 13, 2017
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  5.12b
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  5.12b
As for Matthew NM, the wife not watching is just as if not more important than the pads, though, yes I would like pads as well as a spot. May 15, 2009
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
And maybe you got a pad or two. Apr 10, 2009
Matthew NM
  5.12b
Matthew NM  
  5.12b
totally boulder-able, as long as your wife isn't watching... Apr 10, 2009
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  5.12b
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  5.12b
"Don't blow any of the clips as you will surely deck", well yeah or you could "blow" them all off and bring the pads instead. Just a thought, may not apply as well to route left of this. Sep 14, 2008